So we built a new shop and now the boss wants to have the floor treated so #1 spills don't soak in #2 easier to sweep. Does anyone know what can be done for that? Does anyone have pros or cons to it? Had guy out yesterday and options are epoxy but not sure how that would hold up to metal fabrication type work and also what would happen when something got dropped yes they do make repair kits for it. The other thing is they say it only lasts about 5-7 yrs before it needs to get another layer and that can get expensive.
We used this and it's doing good after 3 years. http://www.epoxy-coat.com/shop/commercial
One epoxy we put in VFD stations was slick as greased glass when wet.
how about werm flooring - its used in horse trailers but might be an option to explore
There is an hardener/curing agent that can be sprayed on with a spray bottle that was used back when I was in the business but it needed to be applied as the concrete was still green as I remember.Concrete floors are pretty slippery when wet anyway if they are shined up properly when they are finished and if they are not then they are porous and can absorb other materials over time.I have seen floors sealed with epoxy and it works well but there again they are slick.I imagine that somebody has applied some sort of fiber to the epoxy when wet to give the surface some texture but it might inhibit the ease that a creeper moves around on a nice smooth surface.Ron G
There are a number of good concrete sealers that are now available for new or cured concrete. We recently did a few thousand sq ft where we gutted part of an old hospital, tore the flooring off, and applied a sealer, as it was to remain bare concrete for material management. I will look up the product information for you on Monday. There is a number of additive products(fine sand, rubber particles, fine ground glass, etc) to spread on it while wet to rough it up for traction while wet but all of them make sweeping and cleaning up a spill tough. I'm not sure you can get away from slippery while wet and still keep it easily cleaned.
Before I went out on my own I built warehouses/distribution centers. We used Ashford Densifier on literally every one. Probably 10 million sq ft in the last couple years I was there. A well finished floor with ashford densifier will out perform epoxy every time. It penetrates into the pores of the concrete and actually makes the top harder than it would be normally. The porious nature of concrete will eventually cause moisture from underneath/within to come to the top and weaken the bond of the epoxy coating. Its easy to apply but you definitely have to follow the instructions to get it to work right. Its a good idea to use it in conjunction with a good sealer(not cure and seal)
I do mostly concrete and when we built my dads garage we used a product by Euco called diamondhard. When we did a job for hersheys ice cream they had us apply it to the loading docks. The stuff is amazing. Spilled diesel on it and it beads up. My dad was cooking for thanksgiving and spilled a few gallons of gravy and it didnt even stain it lol. Neat stuff. Not slippery and you cant tell its been applied to the concrete
I cut plywood (not osb) sheets lengthwise and lay them down on the floor when I bring in track machines. Floor still looks new.
I don't know the name or brand of the product, but when I worked at a Deere dealer they did one isolated bay of our big shop building into a teardown bay for dimsantling machines. They used a grey epoxy type product they they mopped on, and when it was covered nicely and flowed level, they sprayed water on it with a garden hoze nozzle. Apparently the water is what kicked it to cure. Good grip and you could almost wear yourself out trying to beat a hole in it.
RobVG we was planning or getting conveyor belting to lay down to walk track machines in on! One concern I had was the local deere dealer had their concrete treated with something and they don't like it cuz where service trucks sit and leak a little oil it just soaks in and they have tried all sorts of stuff to get it out and cant! Lantraxco could you find out what the product is or pm me the contact info for the dealer? I would like to be happy with what we have and make sure befor we put it down that it is what we want before we do it and are dissatisfied with it! Amstall the product in the warehouses did that hold chemicals out? That is one thing I have been told to be careful about that some don't. Alldayrj can you give a little better description on the beading up the chemical in the concrete did that to keep the spill out of concrete? Thanks guys for all the replies im getting tried and true advice just what I wanted! Jerry
For cured/old concrete Sherman Williams makes an oil base sealer that penetrates and set up hard. It has a stout oder until it dries. It takes a day for the smell to fully go away. You can cut the concrete later and see where it penetrated a good 3/4 inch into the surface. There is another product called Diamond Hard that is used on fresh concrete. It puts a very tough, hard surface, stain resistant finish. We use both of these in the paper mills and auto plants that we work in with excellent results.
Old iron habit on the diamond hard product do you have to do another application after a few years?
Its like putting scotch guard on fabric or mink oil on boots. The diamondhard absorbs into the concrete and makes it impermeable so diesel oil gas etc wont soak in
I believe diamond hard can be recoated periodically. If you do it let me knoe, there are some instructions to applicstion that will make it easier for you
what do they call cured concrete ours was poured in October or November. I suppose that means cured! I was reading about the diamond hard and it said something about using a machine to scrub it in or something like that. Allday have you experienced this product in a welding fab and repair shop with sparks and all hitting the floor is that going to hurt it? that is what I have wondered about epoxy is that stuff hard enough that a spark wont penetrate it?
When concrete test cylinders are taken properly and sent to the lab tagged with time,date,slump and mix design strength,the cylinders are broken at 7 days,14 days and 28 days.The cylinders when fractured at 28 days must meet or exceed their design strength.If you used a 3000#PSI concrete for your floor that is what should be expected from the lab results.What it actually got for strength on the job after you customized the product(too much water) might not meet specifications but that is beyond the control of the producer and many will have you sign a waiver if you pour above a certain slump.You can hire engineers to produce test cylinders on the job using the actual mix at the slump that you end up with if desired.You can have the concrete tested in place with a "Swiss Hammer" and I imagine these days there are other methods of testing hardness of the finished product. Concrete tested at a low slump is expected to test at 2/3rds of its design strength in 7 days and of course full strength at 28 days.I have seen 3000psi concrete test 2800psi in 7 days and that is not uncommon with test cylinders that are properly cared for after they are made.Ron G
Its cured in a month is the short answer. I weld and grind on it and havent seen a problem. I dont run a commercial fabrication shop though. You dont use a machine, you use a squeegie like for driveway sealcoating
Taken from Euco website 3.3 APPLICATION A. Apply Liquid Densifier Sealer in strict accordance with the directions of the manufacturer. Spray, squeegee or roll on liquid to clean, dry concrete surface at a rate no greater than 225 sq. ft. per gallon. The liquid shall be scrubbed into the surface with a mechanical scrubber. Keep the surface wet for a minimum of 30 minutes with the Liquid Densifier Sealer during the application process. When the product thickens, but not more than 60 minutes after initial application, the surface shall then be squeegeed or vacuumed to remove all excess liquid. 1. Do not leave any residue on surface. 2. Do not track material on to untreated surfaces.
We never have. The project specs normally require using that product and I'm certain the mills do not shut down for reapplication. We have modified areas years later and the floor still looked fine.
The mechanical scrubber we use is rubber squeegees. When we first started applicating this stuff a few years ago a factory rep had to be on site for warranty purposes during application and they recommended squeegees. They would usually help working right along with the guys.