New to the forums and couldn't find this topic. What are your thoughts of converting a 22-24 foot flatbed into dovetail body to haul 9 ton dozer. Already have the tandem truck with poor dump bed and would only be using it to transport lone dozer to shows. I would leave a 16 foot flatbed and use the cut off portion to create a dovetail on back. Basically would be toy hauler with sole purpose.
As long as your wheelbase length works and you are not over height and weight go for it. Mike Mc sets a bed like that on his modified Kenworth lowboy tractor when he goes to play. Search old posts, you might see it.
That's exactly what I was looking to do. Wish he had more pics to show how/what he built it from.
There is a local contractor that hauls around an 850? case dozer on a tandem or tri-axle roll back. Its great for getting into narrow gas well roads to unload the machine. I would really keep that dove tail off the ground so your not dragging on the ground though. I'm curious how you are going to make your ramps. They are going to have to be stout and very heavy. Is a hydraulic or pneumatic option possible for raising and lowering them?
Mike checks in on this forum occasionally. PM him. I'm sure he will help you out. It might take him a bit. He's pretty heavy into work like everybody else right now.
A guy down the road from me has two fifth wheels on his Kenworth. And a flatbed with two king pins to attach with.
I would probably mount it directly to the frame. My truck has PTO pump, so it wouldn't be hard to use hydraulics or put in an extra air tank to have pneumatic ramps. I did see a pic when he was building it, but would like to see what keeps it in line with the truck.
This the truck you're talking about? HeavyEquipmentForums Andrew
yes, but looking to build something like this.
That's the truck but the beds not on. The bed is built with a beaver tail and slides on to the fifth wheel. He has forklift pockets built in to set it on and off. When he backs his Cat up to unload, the bed tips down a bit, setting the ramps on the ground. It has guides to keep it all straight. To remove the bed he grabs it with the forklift and the truck is back to fifth wheel status.
Looks pretty scary. I'd want a lot taller lip on the sides to keep a machine from sliding over the side.
79star , did this project ever get off the ground? I've been looking to do the same thing for a 30k lb tracked machine. I'm looking for plans and ideas to modify a truck. Stringfellow in Nashville, TN builds these bodies at about $30k+ Ledwell builds a Hydratail folding rear ramp body for about $48k I'm looking to convert a recently purchased Moffet forklift flatbed into a hauling truck. The Moffet kit will be removed and a tail & ramp system fabricated either by me or by a competent fabrication shop. The truck has a 58k gvw so it should handle the load quite well. Stringfellow and Ledwell are far outside the running for my economic boundaries.
Made no progress. Family has required more energy. Realized that I would also like to mount a knuckleboom in front for loading out other stuff too. Pipe dream
Well, I'm off to the races with this project. I purchased an '03 Freightliner 410 hp Mercedes Benz, 10 speed, 18k front, 40k rears and double framed with a Moffett forklift flatbed but that bed was too narrow and too tall. I have to custom build something shorter to keep within the 13'6" height restrictions. It needs to carry a 30k lb machine and daily essentials for small, short term jobs. The bed has been removed, rust removed from the top of the frame, frame top painted with rust stopping sealer, new oak wood strips and an order of pre-cut steel beams. I'll post pics as this project moves along. It's been several weeks of nightly calculations to ensure that I build it stout enough yet light enough. It's been many years since I was in engineering but I still have my own personal library of textbooks from my college years. The Moffett body was built extremely tough but weighed in at 7k lbs. I think that my bed should weigh in at half of that or less. That leaves ample room for a 200 gallon fuel tank, tools, parts and miscellaneous items that I need on day jobs.
that looks great. keep up the good work!
Progress. Dovetail is mostly finished. Fuel tank under construction. Side beams cut and ready for install after adding some stiffners to the inner layout.
Looking good. What weight is the beavertail designed to carry? I tend to overbuild everything everything to the point where there is no hauling capacity left. Will the ramps help carry the bottom end of the beavertail until the machine is on the deck?
I've used 40k lb for most of my calculations for the primary load. Otherwise, I use 25ksi as my yield stress instead of the actual 36ksi of ASTM36 steel. My last weight estimate puts me around 3k lbs for the bed. Once finished, I will take it to the local scales for weigh out of actual build weight. The former Moffett type flatbed was 7k lbs so I know I'm building it much lighter and with a lower center of gravity. I should be well under $5k for the cost of building the bed, not including my labor. I've still built it heavier and sturdier than some of the other ramp beds that I've looked at. Ramps will have ground support. Beavertail is designed to carry the weight of the machine without extra supports or assistance if needed.
Thanks. The beavertail frame pieces looked light to me. Guess that just proves that I overbuild. Should have took some structural engineering when younger.
I'm not sure what you have in mind for the side rails but unless they're big I think you will fold that last couple feet of the tail like a can if you load something without the support of your ramps. Having cut the beam to a taper instead of the entire beam being angled and tied in at the start of the drop at the desired angle there has been a significant amount of strength removed. If you crawled up to it, got the machine started up on it I suspect that at some point the majority of the machine's weight will be point loaded right on that end. If you've done any stress calculations the one that always yields the highest number is load centered from the points of support. Well when that machine leaves the ground and is just on the tail now it's cantilevered off that tail and now you will have even more than a point load. I understand the design feature as far as ground clearance for the tail, being as light as possible etc but to me it looks like a possible failure point. All the work looks excellent I've just seen a lot of dovetails folded like a lawn chair. The point at which the tail angles down looks well built to me I doubt you'll see an issue there. Sure hate to see all that hard work done and have you arrive at a failure. It's a lot easier to fix now while it's raw steel and easy to get to. Perhaps a fish plate or box that part in? Looks great all around to me. Junkyard
Bear in mind that I am still not done with this project. I have more supports to weld in to stiffen the main frame above the rails. After that, I have 8" C channel sides to weld in....and a top deck to install....and ramps to build...and finish the fuel tank and headache rack. I have more support to add to the beavertail but it is calculated to hold as is without other supports. I was a mechanical engineer in another time in my life but I could not stand life behind a desk - had to go back and re-study to do the calcs to make sure everything was right. I always overbuild and weld on more bead than I should.
Driving a steel tracked crawler up a steep ramp is unnerving. As I have a steep hill to go up, I prefer to carry my 7 metric ton crawler on the truck, instead of the trailer. I have loading docks for this purpose. Even on level ground the risk of slipping on a smooth steel truck bed I use rubber cattle mats from Tractor Supply. Willie
Unless you incorporate a good system to prevent it, your ramp will risk slipping. My trailer deck is lower than three feet. Ramps are still pretty steep. My ramps are channel stringers, with angle "rungs". The rungs are recessed to keep rubber tires between stringers. Dozer tracks don't touch the rungs, only the stringers. Either direction I go, it raises my heart rate dramatically! I prefer a loading dock. Willie
After sliding my PC200 excavator off of a former lowboy trailer, sideways, while I was climbing over the tires on my old 50 deep-well lowboy, I am always cautious when loading & unloading all equipment. After sliding it off, I had to back up and take another run at it in exactly the same place as I did not have any other options on that load out site. My preference is for nothing less than a NGB detach after that incident. I load and unload constantly with my smallest machine and a 12 ton trailer. I will be copying some of that design and adding in some other precautionary measures to prevent another slide off like happened with the excavator. So far, I've never had any problems with the tag trailer even in some really bad situations. Experience helps a lot, too. I've been at this long enough to learn from others' mistakes as well.
Looks good. Are those 6" channels with a 18" spacing?
79Star, my cross members are 6" channel mostly on 16" centers. The tail cross beam is a 6" wide flange and there are also a couple of strategically placed 6" S beams. Tire locations mess up perfect spacing on centers. Side beams are 8" channel. Here are a couple of more pics of the current progress on the project.
I have always thought a truck like you are building would be handy to have. Are you planning to put a winch on it?
Hey , ah, I need to get some "groceries" this week! Can I borrow the truck? Looks like a great build so far! Make sure you put lots of lights, storage, and power fold up ramps! A pto winch would be sweet at well!
A winch and hydraulics will come later as finances allow. I'm stretched to the limits right now so I have to stick to basics until I get things back to working and bringing in the green. Fuel tank, air powered grease gun and some basic tool storage are in the bare basics category, along with LED lighting.
I really love it. Put a steel deck on it. I used planks the first time. It lasted ten years, and damaged the two layer truck frame. Everything below stayed wet all the time. Mine is a single axle (see avatar). Mine has all the ribs running lengthwise. It's a dump truck. I didn't want the valleys in the decking to prevent dirt from sliding out. Then cover your ramp, at least temporarily with rubber cattle mats, tire tread, conveyor belting, or snowmobile tracks to give your steel tracks an opportunity to grip. Willie
Looks great! Keep us updated
I wanted stake pockets on the bed and I wanted to use them as tie down points. However, I did not want to lose surface area to an outer rub rail with pockets. So, I came up with a better idea for stake pocket tie downs that allow for much more weld surface and a stronger tie down point. The chain is dropped down through the stake pocket and the grab hook is latched into the side of the 6" channel piece. Lots more weld surface than a large d-ring style tie down for a stronger anchor point. Stake pockets can still be used for sides or for tie down points. Bed has been primer coated, lights cut out and ready for finish coat of paint, then decking. Ramps and fuel tank still need to be installed. Currently cutting and machining the hinges for the ramps.
Looking better every time you update us. Thanks for keeping us up to date. Better make sure you lock it up.
Getting ready for another coat of red on the side rails. Ready to finish decking once paint is dried and then finish up the ramps. 1st ramp linkage layout has been designed. Patterns made for the plasma cutter keep things moving quickly and identically. Machining plates is usually done 4 at a time while tack welded together to make them stay true.
I hope that isn't pressure treated lumber. It is terribly corrosive to metals. Willie
I wish that I had that information earlier. It is treated. I was thinking that the softer wood would be better for track grip. I've done a little research and you are correct that treated it is a poor choice. At least the beams are well painted prior to coverage. I will have to source some white or post oak from a local sawmill.
11 years ago I cut Red oak, had it sawed to 2-1/4". I cut enough to replace it when it rotted. The building It was in was severely damaged in Hurricane Irene in 2011. My replacement bed lumber mostly ended up in Lake Champlain I presume. Last winter, I switched to steel. As the outer rails were set 1-1/2" higher than the rest of the frame, I added 1-1/2 x 1/4" flat stock on edge running lengthwise. Welding the ribs in was admittedly boring work. I got one piece of 3/16" mild to make the deck. I should have done that in the first place. Parked, it keeps the frame dry. Mine is a two layer frame, and corrosion is a big concern. Steel weighs less, dumps more easily, and fines don't sift through it. All told, it wasn't any more expensive.
[ATTAC Nice work on the dozer bed treemuncher ! Myself would not worry about the treated deck floor . This must be some kind of internet anomaly about using treated lumber on a truck or trailer ? We have used treated wood on all kinds of beds & trailers and no problem ? Might see some surface rust but nothing compared to salt off the road used in northern states during winter time . Don't think you have anything to worry about in Tennessee Dump bed on the C 60 was steel frame with treated tongue & groove lumber for floor sides & tailgate . Use 2 x 8 treated lumber on the lowboy . Never had a truck or trailer rust apart from using treated lumber yet ?
I've always put strips of roofing felt under the boards on the cross members with no issues, but the climate here's a touch wetter. greyson
A few updates on the work. Truck is mostly done and I was able to test fit my smallest piece and my F250 on to the flatbed. The Reese hitch tube drags lightly on the F250 but clears the belly well enough. The little machine (15k+lbs) got up there just fine. 2 pitch changes on the way up to the flat - no slippage and the climb was easy with the air ride dropped down. I still have to get a grease reel and finish up the installation of the grease bucket. I also have a fuel tank to finish fabricating and pressure testing. At least I now have a truck that is ready to move some loads. I will change my design on the ramps - they are currently manual lift and I don't have room to get helper springs in them. I will likely build them into hydraulic lift ramps and if I do that, I might make them a bit longer. I have more of those beams available to me in my metal pile so it's just the time and labor to build them up. I plan to take it over to the local gravel pit scale house to weigh out what my build is. I'm thinking somewhere around 2 tons on the bed weight. Regardless, I will be legal with the big machine (30k lbs) when that gets loaded up.
And I REALLY like the LED lights that I put in on the bed. Super bright reverse lights and everything looks pretty slick.
Came out sharp. Good job.
Nice job. And the bed is long enough to balance your load as needed to get the correct front axle weight.
That was the first job on layout - figure where the Center of Gravity of each machine must be located in order to establish how much weight was put on the steer axle. That also made the decision on ramp location, overall length of the body and the rest of the layout. I made up an Excel spreadsheet that tells me how far forward of the tandem center each CG should be in order to put how much weight on the front axle. For the big machine (not loaded yet), I will have a choice of 5k-7.5k lbs on the front axle. Due to the length of the machine and the area saved for fuel tank and greaser, I am unable to load more than that on the front but that works out about perfect and shares the weight as it should be.
1st load on the new bed hit the road this morning to start a job 60 miles away. Truck did great, no shifting on the hills required with the little machine. I still have to finish the 200 gallon fuel tank, add tool boxes and hydraulics to the ramps but I have a good working truck. with an air powered grease system. A 55 gal drum of off road diesel works fine for the small machine to make a full day of it but the larger machine will chew through that drum in less than 3 hours.
Well done. When you have free time and want to work for beer come to Michigan. I have a project for ya!
looks great! When can I borrow it?
I purchased a 12 volt pump/reservoir combo and modified the ramps into a hydraulic lift system. I did not need to take a chance on my back and the ramps needed to be beefed up a bit. Things were just going to get heavier. I also added a 12 volt battery behind the pump with a solar charger over the deck. The lift and lower buttons are hidden from the weather and anyone else. Works like a charm and the money it cost was far cheaper than doctor visits for a back injury. The ramps no longer lay down on the deck but hydraulic lift is SO worth it! Now, to finish up the 200 gal off road fuel tank and some tool boxes. Then I should be about done with this project. So far, everything has been working out great with this truck.
Nice work. Did you hit your budget?
I put on 8 new low profile tires last week and painted the 8 rims with a HD urethane paint. Now the bed sits another 2+ inches lower and I will be under legal height with the big machine. I still need to finish the 200 gal tank, mount tool boxes and try loading the big machine on the truck. Right now, I've been using it for moving the small (15k lb) machine around and it is working great. It's a lot safer than pulling that load with my F550. I really should add up how much I spent on the truck just to know true cost. If I get the track issue fixed on the big machine this week, I will post up some updated photos.
200 Gallon tank installed and works well. I've been driving some relatively steep areas with the small machine and the truck handles great. Track tensioner gave out yesterday so time for more repairs on this machine. Tried loading the big machine for the first time today. Nothing bent, front end stayed on the ground the whole time and the loading was perfectly stable. Really happy with it. Once the lo-pro tires were put on, the load angle is near perfect with the air ride dropped down.
I still have to figure out my binding locations. Once I decide on the best tie down points, I usually stick with that program to keep things fast and safe. Driving this load on the truck felt fine and not overloaded. Once I choose my tie down program, I'll run it down the road to test it out prior to going to a job with it. I still have some issues with the machines RPM sensors on the tracks to fix before putting it to work. Nice thing about this machine is that the low gears run 0.25 and 0.5 mph which makes loading a slow breeze with a gentle break over.
Dozer bed & hydro ramps turned out really nice treemuncher !
thats a sweet looking rig. Nice job.
What did the truck end up weighing?
Nice job on the bed and the fuel tank looks right at home. Looking forward to more updates as your project progresses.
I've recently added a lift axle to the truck. See the write up here: