Using the 955L and oil starts blowing down next to the belly pan. Get the pan off and appears what happed prior to this issue, was the machine was run without the pan and it hit something that cracked the transmission case, and the two lift lines. The up line was replaced but not the down. The stuff on the pan is silicone and has some soft spots. My pan is to drain, scrape the stuff off and see if something like JB weld would be a better fix. What caused the leak was the seal blew out. The down line used a seal which has metal around the outside and is also old. The down line is bent and resting against the trans case and is starting to wear through. Plan to replace it and CAT wants $1066 for it. There are some used ones out there, going to see what they show up as. The pic didn't come out that great but where it leaked shows some slight surface rust (sort of) in just one area. The other thing I want to do is replace the bearing on the lifting arm which hold the bucket. There is very little of it left, pretty thin. Any advice on how to get the one out?
Well found this thread on how to replace bushings so that ones covered. HeavyEquipmentForums When I get into it, will see how it goes. Still wouldn't mind some insight into the seals for the lines and about the tranny case
Can not give any real good advice on the cracked trany case, maybe someone who is better with welding could suggest something. Problems with any kind of epoxy or sealant is getting the oil out of the crack. Guess that may also be a problem for welding. But as for those seals with the steel around the outside, been years since I used them, they were very common on Cat equipment for years. It won't do you any good but think there is a complete kit of them on the shelf where I worked. I'm sure no one there knows what they are! Anyhow in almost all applications where the steel backed seals were used Cat replaced them with D-Ring seals. Once you see one and picture the cross section of the seal as it was cut in two that might make sense. I'm sure somewhere there is a conversion chart for the two seal types but best I can do is the following list of part numbers, note the sizes are in mm so just have to plug the mm's in to a conversion program if you don't have a metric ruler. Just go by the size of the hole in the tube end and pick the one closest. Nice thing is they do fit a little snug in the hose or tubing flange so they don't fall out at the worst time during assembly!
Thanks, didn't get notified of the post The original Metal is 1.5 OD by 1 ID, the all rubber one which blew out is 1.5 OD by 1.2 ID so guess that uses 1P3703 to keep the outer edge in the bore. Need two of these for the main feeds coming from the control valve The ones on the hoses to the up/down cylinders are 1.25 OD by 1 ID so using 1P3702 I'm going to take some 200 wet/dry and block of wood to freshen up the face. The forward line is bent and has a wear spot but after clean up, the wear spots isn't that bad. Might try to straighten it a bit to move away from tranny. Probably should call a used parts place and get a price, part number 6K3778 new 7V8742 and have found several. Would I just loosen the plug on the bottom of the trans? Reason for asking is that is a 1 inch drive on the bottom of it. Being 1 inch I'm thinking maybe its more then just a plug. Is there a spring or something behind it? My 955 manual doesn't show or mention it, and unable to find it at SIS After getting into the lift arm bores, I think the bearings are totally gone. Removed the grease fitting and can find no hole inside the bores. Maybe over time the metal from the bearing and pin just sealed it up. Used a small screw driver in the grease fitting channel and it turns a short bit down
Should just be a plug with a copper gasket or copper covered gasket. It's probably in there but Cat likes to hide things sometimes.If I have time later I'll try finding it!
Appreciate that, least I know if won't hurt tanking if off. Have a wash tub to catch all the oil, think it said 7 gallons
I believe I have a new loader arm tip bearing for my 955L here somewhere. If you measure the bore of what you have there, I can measure the ID & OD of the bearing for you, which should tell you if it is missing or not. To me it looks like it is missing from the picture. We were going to put a new bearing in ours a few weeks back as it was not taking grease, but managed to heat it up some & get the grease channel cleaned out. Now it takes grease fine again.
The bore is right at 2 inches on both, in a couple spots (up/down) is just maybe a 1/16 under 2 inch Take that back , it's 2 9/16
I have new pins and they are 2 inch OD and real sloppy
I was looking in the wrong spot, somehow was thinking this was a 977K??? Well once I plugged you S/N in it popped right up: Right down there at the bottom #19 and if you can't read the part numbers that is a 8B6599 Plug with a 0L1124 gasket.
Thanks, that will work, see if I can get one ordered. Got the plug out (its 3/4 not 1 inch like I first mentioned), and it took my breaker bar with a 8 foot pipe to get it loose. It almost filled up my wash tub and really quick. Its every bit of 7 if not maybe 10 gallons. Another good thing is there is only a very sight black film on the magnet plug
Copy your info to here so I can keep track of it
Pic of the machine Some scraping and honing Took a die grinder to both and nothing showed up. I'm thinking the PO might have welded it up and now its to far gone. Don't know if I should just keep grinding, guess it wouldn't hurt, going to be filled back in.
Removed the silicone off the trans case and wire wheeled. Sure looks like someone tried welding cast iron. It wasn't leaking much with the silicone so I'm thinking of get it cleaned up, use a bunch of acetone and then lots of JB weld.
Don't think I'd call that welding.
Hey come on, the guy might have tried writing Alvin :drinkup
It is on the bottom of a cast iron oil pan, so not the greatest conditions. JB weld sounds like a good fix to me, put a vacuum on the case, then use the brake cleaner, then the warm JB weld to get it to suck into the cracks and hold tight, and also to keep the oil from seeping back out and ruining the bond. I wouldn't worry so much about finding where the grease hole is, figure out where you want to put it, and drill it in there. You could take the die grinder and make a groove around the center of the bore, where the hole is on the bearing. Unless the bearing has a groove in the outside, then you don't need two grooves. The easiest way to drill a hole to meet up with the existing grease channel might be to drill straight through the other side and hope you hit the existing hole.
That does sound like a good approach, one other idea is I was told that you could thin down JB Weld with a little acetone. That would help the vacuum suck it into the crack. Might pay to do a Google search for JB Weld and contact them to see what they say about how much it can be thinned, they were good about replying to me when I asked that question years ago.
Still not getting notifications I like the vacuum idea, don't know how well it would go into the cracks and don't see how I can get them cleaned out, but worth a shot. Will see about contacting JB and see what they advise. The hole is big, but don't see how to drill thru at that angle. If I try to drill thru using the existing hole from the outside it will put it quite a ways from the center. If I try from the outside thru to the inside that's going to take a long bit
The tranny is still draining oil, don't know how long it will take to stop draining. So long as oil keeps laying next to the crack I keep feeling oil in areas of the weld. I could squire some acetone into the bottom of the pan, and on the outer side, but don't think the will keep it clean. Have sent question to JB and see what they have to say
If the crack is big enough for oil to leak out, then the brake fluid will go through it, and warm JB weld will suck in a little way. MOST important, the oil won't come back out before the JB is in place. I can't say how the factory drilled the original grease hole. To go at an angle you just need to get it started then it's easy. Use a cape chisel to raise a bur to give you some "footing" to get the drill bit started at an angle.
The idea with the vacuum is that you get things as clean as possible before hand and have the JB Weld ready to mix up. Then connect the vacuum to, say, the filler neck and let it run. Then use the acetone/brake clean to wash off the weld area and it should suck some in through the cracks. Then while leaving the vacuum running mix up and apply the JB Weld, thinned or warmed to make it flow a bit better. Then let it set till the JB Weld cures all the while the vacuum keeps running. Let it run all night then the JB Weld should be cured. You could then put a second coat of JB on just to get a little more thickness. Just a thought, if you have access to a small sand blaster you could hit the area around the welds a quick shot or two to give it a little better "bite". Just make sure everything else is covered up and protected from the sand and do this just before the final clean up while the vacuum is running.
Delmer and kshansen there is some good ideas, will give it a go. Will maybe grid a bit more to see it anything shows up and maybe make a spot where a bit might start. Don't have a vacuum pump for this tyoe work, only for AC work. Think if I connect a shop vac to the fill tube and maybe remove the vent pipe, this will be less air going through the vent hole, but enough to keep the vac cool enough for all night run, and still have some vacuum in the case.
Have received no response from JB Weld folks. Might have to try a phone call if nothing come back before Monday
is it possible at all to drop the tranny pan?
Not familiar first hand with this machine but I don't think that is a separate pan but is actually the major housing for the transmission. As for the vacuum, a shop vac is just what I was suggesting to use. hooked to the filler neck and if there is a separate breather some where reemove and plug the hole for that. Don't need a real strong vacuum just enough to create a negative pressure in side the transmission case, just to keep the oil from leaking out and suck in the brake clean a little and maybe encourage the JB Weld to work in there too! ATT: Alldodge!!! Did a search on my old emails and found the reply from JB Weld about thinning it: From: Customer Service You can use one teaspoon of lacquer thinner per two ounces of product. Just note that they are saying lacquer thinner, and that stuff will melt plastic so don't use wife's good measuring spoons if they are plastic, if they a metal don't use them if she is around and wash them real good when done!
:notworthy
I would use your refrigeration vacuum pump, or a junk fridge or freezer compressor to save your good one. It won't develop much vacuum because the seals will leak in the tranny, but it should do the trick if you can seal up the openings enough. The shop vacs I have would burn up in ten minutes. The other way to thin JBweld is to heat it up. Have the transmission case nice and warm, mix up the JB and let it sit for 20 minutes, then heat it up and spread it on. Or wait 30 minutes and spread it on the warm cast iron. The sitting time is so the stuff is ready to set up fast, instead of dripping off before it hardens.
Dang sure wish I could be notified of a post Sure appreciate the input. Have not received anything from JB Weld products. I have it fairly clean but it still drips oil out of the pan it two spots, even though real slow. Was thinking of pouring about a quart of acetone in and see it drip/pour out. Don't think that little bit of acetone would do any harm. Maybe do it a few times to help clean out the pours
Just be careful with the acetone very flammable and small spark could set it off, just turning on the shop vac could be a problem. Also note: if you elect to use a non-flammable brake cleaner to get the oil out be sure to read this first. Do not heat: http://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html
Just noticed this, thanks. I'm using the flammable stuff and its cleaning it up fairly well. Currently letting it continue to see if any more will leak out. Installed the old line back on after putting it in my press to straighten it out some. Has one spot where it was wearing a tad but think it will be OK (I hope). Plan to install the other line tomorrow. Have the local welder coming out toward the end of the week to have a look at what needs to be done for the bushings. Have done some more grinding and still no signs of the grease hole
Had to do a lot of grinding and managed to find the grease holes. From what we can figure is the PO installed a piece of pipe on the bore and then the bearing, maybe just pipe. In any case there was never any chance the grease was going to make it. Current plan is once the bearings come in, going to weld another pieces of pipe in it then weld the bearings in. Will drill some holes in the center to allow grease to pass. Will also use a 2 inch OD pipe long enough to go from one side to the other to keep them aligned.
Well to close this thread out. Picked up a 2 inch OD bar (bushings are 2 ID) as discussed with Metalman, with the bushings also in the hole we could see how much needed to be filled. The welder made beads from one side to the other about 3/8 inch apart. Then a bit of grinding for correct positioning. We left the bar flush with the outside edge of the bushing as it was welded in place. The bar kept the splatter out of the bushing and also acted as a heat sink. Once one was welded, we had to lightly hit the bar thu so it could be flush with the other outside bushing. The reason to hit a bit is it had gotten a bit tighter from the heat. After doing the other side and letting it cool, the bar came out with only our hands. We used some old pins to install from the outside in to use the same way. Was easier then holding a 30 pound 4 foot bar. Should have taken more pics but its all back together and here is one of the weld jobs. Used brake cleared and Acetone, never di use the vacuum because trying to figure out how to get it done. Applied on coat of JB Weld and next morning there were only two drips. Second coat and no drips the next morning This is after a 2 more coats for a total of 4 Now just need to get it moved back over to the farm to reinstall the bucket
Looks good All Dodge. Your bar is better than mine..........mine was about .080 smaller than the bushing ID's so had to do some guessing. It turned out ok though in the end. Will you need to build on the bore on bucket pin bosses? I had to do mine.
My guess is your right about that. Will probably wait for another day. I hope since the bushings can now be greased that there will be less torque on the bolts until I can get the bucket fixed. It was bending and even breaking the grade 8 bolts I'm still not being notified of any post. Just me checking to see if there was a response
Very nice work, and less work than weld up align bore out.