I finnaly got started on the repacking of my stabalizer cylinder. John Deere 310c. I peened around the gland nut. I then got a big pipe wrench and a 6' pipe extension. The nut moved. After two hard rounds the nut has not moved outward. Are the threads stripped out?. The nut showed no signs of ever being removed. What to do next? Help!
Check some machines have a Allen screw for locking.Don't think JD has this.But if threads are stripped I have taken a hammer while somebody is turning the nut.Hammer outward some times this will make it catch good threads.
Hey davidd, I've been looking at the parts diagrams for your cylinder, this is going to be hard to explain. What it shows is the "nut" that retains the gland in the end of the cylinder is made like a large washer plate with internal threads. It threads onto male threads on the gland. I would be easier to describe re-assembly, then you might understand what's in there. The gland simply slips into end of barrel, sealed with o-ring. Then you install a retaining ring in a groove inside the barrel. Gland slides out aginst retaining ring. Then the nut plate screws onto threads on the gland and pulls gland firmly against retaining ring. The problem your probably having is the gland is turning inside barrel instead of nut plate screwing off gland. You could try peening on the flat face of the nut plate with brass drift punch. Tap around and around the plate and see if it frees nut plate from gland. You could also try applying air pressure to opposite end of cylinder which would shove rod piston into gland and seat gland tight against retaining ring. This might cause the gland to get enough grip against the retaining ring to remove nut plate. Once you get that nut plate off, push the gland in slightly and remove the retaining ring. Then you can simply use the rod and piston as a slide hammer to knock gland out of cylinder. It's best to have oil out of cylinder before doing this, less messy.
I have only 125 psi air. How would it do to use the hydraulics to apply the outward pressure on the gland until the nut starts to move outward then remove the hyd. pressure and continue to remove the plate? I would be somewhat cautious of doing it this way as hyd. pressure is a good way to get hurt.
You'd be surprised how much force 120 lbs of air can put on a cylinder rod. :yup You could do it with your hydraulics as well. Fully extend cylinder until it bottoms out. At that point, the piston is cramming gland tightly against retaining ring, you could probably then spin nut plate. The cylinder can't come apart doing this, the retaining ring is preventing gland from coming out. Once you get that nut plate turning, you should be able to relax hydraulics and finish removing nut plate.
Thanks a lot Atco, I will give it a try tomorrow. If no luck , then I will take it to the Hyd. shop and let them have a try. DD
Ah, you'll get it. You might have a helper hold pressure against gland with hydraulics, hold gland snug against retainer. Tap around on face of nut, she should come loose.
Well murphy is with me on this one. Since I was having a problem and I do not have a real good work area, I decided to take the cylinder to a shop that was reccomeded to me. They were reasonable and seemed to know what to do. They agreed to use my new seal kits. Which were unopened from the package. They did not seem to mind that I brought my own seals. I put it on this afternoon and it leaked right away. The shop did not pressure test as there was no oil in the cylinder. WAs there anything I was suspose to do before operating the cylinder?? Is it normal to not pressure test a repaired cylinder?? Now I have to spend another day,take it off, travel 80 miles, reinstall. Should they charge me again since it was my seals? Murphy's sidekick
Most hyd shops will pressure test repaired cylinders so you don't have this prblem, and no the shop should not charge you just because you supplied the seals if they were not right then they should not have been installed if they are good and reputable they should go good one the repair
Bummer davidd. I agree with DirectTech. A good/experienced cylinder rebuilder should be able to tell if seals are not correct so as to cause a leak. Pressure testing is the proper way for a shop to make sure they did a good and correct job, but likewise, a good rebuilder would know "if" the job was done proper. It's like a good structural welder. He doesn't have to bother knocking the slags of his welds to tell if they're good, he knows they are because of his experience with welds. I have rebuilt a good number of cylinders, you can tell if there is a problem with components or incorrect seals. Much like you can tell when everything fit and assembled properly. The cylinder shop should make this right for you.
Thanks for the prompt replies. I agree the job should be made good. Either my seals were the wrong ones (which they should have recogonized) or they may have pinched one or put one on backwards. Then is there any possibility that I did something wrong putting it back on? That was a snap, just a mite heavy for a 68 yr old working alone.
Only if the leak was a hose connection. If it's leaking at rod or gland, ain't nothing you did.
Greetings all, The shop did make the leaking cylinder good. With no additonal charges. I have since had them repack the other stabalizer cylinder. My helper and I then removed the guts of the 2 swing cylinders. They were quiet troublesome for us to remove. Several calls to the shop and they gave advice on the finer points of removal. They also gave good advice on how to reinstall with out nipping off any finger tips. And one bucket cylinder was re-sealed. All told 5 cylinders were done. Cost was $575 for labor and parts. I was very pleased with their cost and work ethics. And all the help here on the forum was much appreciated. David d.
David - did you repack because of outer seal weaping, or was there problems with the piston seals? I'm pretty sure I have a piston seal issue with the stick cylinder on my 310C Thx John
John, All of my cylinders were leaking external. The shop advised to repack the whole thing as most likely the internal (piston) seals are worn or hard and may be leaking internal. Also; they may become damaged whilst removal and reinstalling. In other words you can not pack just outside and not disturbe the gland seals. Also note that the cheapest seal kit I found was about $150 for both the rod and piston seals. I just removed the pins and took the cylinder off and got them repacked for $150 parts and labor. I did dissasemble the swing cylinders as it would have been quiet hard to remove. The shop applied the seals and I re-assembled.
davidd I will be replacing the seals on at least 5 cylinders on my JD 210C, two of which will be the swing cylinders. Can you tell me what to expect, tips on how to get this done since you have gone through the experience. I will also being replacing the bushings for the swing cylinders as well. There is quite a bit of play in them.
Taking the cyl. off the machine and take them to a rebuild shop. My labor and parts was less than the price of the seal kit from an aftermarket, much less than OEM kits. The swing cyl would have been rather hard to remove so I just removed the gland, rod and etc and took that to the shop . They repacked and I re-installed. Mine did not need pins and bushings. But as some have said on here, just weld a bead around the inside of the old bushing and then allow it to cool. It may fall out or use some light tapping. Now there are some threads on here as how to reinstall the new bushing. I t is a tight fit. Good luck
that snap ring will get you every time....
I'm glad to here they put all right for you david! And the parts and labor sounds to be fair! CPS