What model # is the head off a 966b 99Y03197 or can someone tell me where to locate it. Also when reinstalling the head what is procedure for valvetrain.
Has anyone seen alot of sludge in the head and barlely any in the pan? This machine was blowing oil out the vent on valve cover, any idea why so much pressure.A couple more questions, Where can a guy find a reman head and sleeve/piston/rod at a good price. Also does anyone think that this head will be good for a core with this damage?
We can quote you on replacement parts. Need tractor model and serial number as well as engine serial number and arrangement number if it has one. There should also be casting numbers on your old head and rod. Include those as well please. Steve. www.pdmechanical.com
I'm guessing the piston went bad first allowing compression into the base causing the oil to come out the vent. Then once the top of the piston came unglued it took out the valves.
Steve the machine is a 966d wheel loader ser#99Y03197 can you tell me the location of the other numbers engine# and arrangement# and I will go to shop and write them down if I know where to look.
The engine serial # and arrangement # should be on a tag usually located on the left side of the engine (RH side of loader) at the back just below the head. Some later engines had a larger black tag located on the engine. Cant remember where though. Casting numbers are right on the head. A raised number sometimes under the valve cover or just outside. Always on top. The casting number for the rod is right on the side of the rod. There is also a number stamped in the top of the piston. That would be helpful as well. You'll have to get that off of one of the other pistons for obvious reasons. You can email me directly at [email protected] or contact me via phone. Steve.
Johnny, take a good look at your camshaft for chipped up lobes. Might want to price a turbo in there too. Later Bob
thanks Bob I wil look that cam over, and I just put a turbo on this machine so don't know how boss will feel about that maybe I will give it a spin when I go to the shop to see how it is.
Take a good look at the exh turbine for fins dammaged by metal coming out of the engine, and steam clean the manifold there may be more metal laying in it too. Been there done that. Later Bob
engine serial number for your machine is 8Z22147 arrangement number is 6N3055 that's if the engine is the same one that left factory. Cat reman head number should be 0R2549
In my opinion the most likely failure mode was that the valve let go first and took the piston with it. The sideways imprint of a valve head in the top of the piston at 90-degrees to where it should be is the clue. That indicates to me that the valve head broke off at the bottom of the stem and was impacted in mid-air as it fell by the rising piston that then drove it back into the head. Unless you are VERY VERY lucky and no metal whatsoever has gone up the exhaust port the turbo will be toast - sorry. Seeing the damage you have I think that's very unlikely. Budget for a turbo. Check the tops of the other 5 pistons for any signs that valves have been contacting the piston. That would indicate the engine has been over-revved. Not likely in a loader but easy to check.
Thanks for the info Nige and PATech. All other pistons have had no contact and I did find the valve stem in the exhaust manifold so will check turbo out good. This engine is a reman from powell with only 7000hrs. the numbers i found head- NWP 1W556 block- 66D45509 piston- 8N3102 -10- rod- 8N1720 -10- coudn't find any tags on engine for arrangement #
Suggest you go back to Powell and ask them for the Serial Number or check the invoice from the sale to see if the S/N is listed. If they're anything like a half-decent outfit it should be right there on the document. It makes me wonder why the valve stem was in the exhaust. Surely the only way for it to get there would be for the collets to fail and the stem drop down partially into the cylinder bore then get spat out the exhaust by the piston. Where did you find the collets for the valves..? Your number for the head (1W0556) is good. That number services to 8N-6796, but that's a bare head with no valves. For a head complete with valves you need 8N-0246 or Reman 0R-2549. Reman may really not be an option for you because your existing head will be no good for a core deposit due to the damage it's sustained when the valve dropped. There is also a Classic (cheaper) cyl head for it - 269-5290, but that head also does not come with valves.
I agree the valve dropped then snapped off, I didn't find the keepers for the valve but I steamed the head off and probably blew them out into the yard somewhere. Where would I inquire about a classic head? is that from cat? I can install the valves I'm sure, but would have concerns about clearance to piston then. Maybe it would be best if a more knowledgable person take care of that. Not sure what to do now since this machine only got 400hrs last year.
Classic Parts are Cat's "cheaper" range, available from your local friendy Cat dealer. Here are comparative prices, what your local dealer quotes you may be different but the ratio between the prices should be the same. 8N-0246 Head (new - complete with valves) - $2675 0R-2549 Head (Reman - complete with valves) - $1425 + Core Deposit $1285 = $2720 which is dearer than a new head 8N-6796 Head (new - no valves) - $2000 269-5290 Classic Head (new - no valves, equivalent to 8N-6796) - $950. For machines that work only a small amount of hours per year a Classic Part can be a good cost-effective option.
Valve Color Are these valves trying to tell a story. Is the colour difference an indication of something. This is also the machine that smoked heavy when it was WFO.
It's burning cleaner on some cylinders than others, although not really clean on any of them TBH. In order of what to look at I would have thought valve clearances..? Injectors..? Fuel injection pump..? a combination of any two or maybe all three..? If it was a dodgy turbo I would have thought all 6 cylinders would have been a similar colour. What colour was the smoke from the chimney and were you topping up engine oil regularly..? A yes to that question would indicate problems with rings/pistons.
Smoke was jet black but only when full throttle, and yes they we're adding oil but it was blowing a bit out the breather on valve cover so hard to know how much was being burnt. My concern was the whiteish/gray colouring on a few exhaust valves. Also we we're loading the torque a few days before engine let go to see if smoke cleared up with new turbo, just couldn't take it I guess. I wished I knew if doing just 1 cylinder is a good move or not but I can still see crosshatch in cylinders and not much of a ridge on top so hopefully the other pistons hold together.
Johnny, with a rebuilt head you shouldn't drop any more valves. A good indication of the other cyls is the carbon ring around the top of the liner. If it's solid the rings are holding the oil, if not they are letting oil up and washing the carbon off, liner will look like it's varnished. Black smoke is more fuel than air to burn it. You said there was bad blowby but might have just been the cyl that was coming apart. Later Bob
How to clean engine before reassembly What's best to use for clean any debris from engine before reassembly? fuel or solvent of some sort
Good quality industrial degreaser. Whether you use eco-friendly or just the regular stuff is up to you.............
I'm talking about inside the engine, cam and stuff
Varsol is good, wash down everything and squirt engine oil on everything when clean. Pull all lifters, clean and inspect, keep in original locations. Later Bob
Broken Pieces in oil pan Can anyone identify these broke off pieces, they were in the oil pan and are roughly the size of rod journals and or bearing but not off the one I pulled out, I'm afraid it is a piece of the crank and won't contain the oil to make pressure anymore. also how badly does this engine need to be overheated to melt these coolant seals in the spacer plate. I.m thinking there is more bad news on the way.
Does the piston have an iron insert for the ring grooves? might be a piece of that. Later Bob
Don't think so, and too small in diameter. I'm worried its a side piece of crank rod journal.
The engine won't have to be overheated too much to melt the spacer plate coolant seals. IIRC the yellow plastic insert inside the seal has now been replaced by a stainless steel tube. No idea what that piece of metal is but my thoughts would be revolving round pulling the engine out of the machine sooner rather than later. Just had a thought about that piece. From the block somewhere around the base of the liners..? Looks about the right radius.
Do these cranks have the thrust washer/spacer on them? Also broke off piece is machined on all sides except where broke and jagged.
Yes they do Johnny, they are on one of the main bearings but you can check them by checking end float. Should be around 0.025". If you lose a thrust bearing it will be 0.100" or more and you can pull the torque out and repair the cause. Later Bob
here is a pic from other side you can see the inside radius is machined but nothing is shiny from rubbing/wear and it is .090" thick. could it be a thrust washer or part of the thrust bearing?
I think your on the right track with the crank journal. It's not a piece of the thrust washer, it'll be more of a machined looking metal like the rod/main bearings. That chunk is cast, like the block/cap's, and by the first picture of it about the exact same diameter as the bearing behind it. I'd pull all of the rod and main cap's (one at a time) til I found where it came from.
Up and Running Well I picked up the turbo this morning and finnished putting it back together and she fired right up with no issues (so far). No more black smoke and way up on power so I would like to say thank you to all who helped with info and to steve for the parts. Hopefully it stays repaired. Also where is best place to put a oil pressure sending unit?
Oil pressure there must be a plug (probably 1/8" NPT) on the block somewhere that taps pressure right from the oil galleries feeding the crankshaft. So where did the broken piece of metal come from then..?
I have no idea where broken piece came from. Boss told me to put it back together so thats what I did. I'll just make sure oil pressure and temp is correct then its going up to one of the gravel pits, and I'll cross my fingers.
Back of the cylinder block, might find a couple in there now. Later Bob