Both stabilizer cyls on my 580C are leaking pretty bad, and one of them has some bad spots in the chrome. (no nicks) Called to see what cost would be to repack, and asked about the damaged shaft, and was informed it would have to have the shaft replaced. How bad does the shaft have to be to require replacement, and how expensive is the fix?
Clean with brake cleaner and use crazy glue on the spots. Polish with a very fine emery cloth.
Very good advice. The key is getting the area clean before application of the filler. The brake cleaner will do a great job. I always used lacquer to fill voids in chrome. I would apply the material by using a single edge razor blade to squeeze the material into the void. With lacquer you can see the color fill the void. Eastwood used to sell a lacquer product as a liner for rusty gas tanks. I'm sure crazy glue will be even better. I have several "rock chips" on my cylinders also (probably ten or so on each). I have one stabilizer which is also leaking badly. My plan was to try the filler on both cylinders and rebuild the one with the bad leak.
I'm really apprehensive about trying to rbld these cylinders myself. One big problem is to hold the rod while you remove the nut/bolt as the case may be. I think you could probably repin the rod to the machine, but then you still have to figure out how break the nut loose. If you do get it loose, how do you re-torque it? I'm sure that before I'm through, every cylinder will have to be rebuilt, and I'm not sure I can afford that. Where's the best place to buy the seal kits?
Here's a thread that answers some of the removal and torque questions you have: You can price shop for seals: Baum, Bulldog, Case, etc... We had good luck with Baum for our Dresser. That 580 is looking good!
I had to rebuild one of my boom cylinders a short time ago. The problem I had was that my Case 580 was in NC and I am in FL with the cylinder removed and with me. In order to hold the cylinder and rod I bought two lengths of SCH-40 pipe from HD and put the larger five feet into the ground packed with three bags of cement and sticking up about 18". I did this just outside my back garage door in a level spot. Using a cement block and wood as a cushion I placed the entire cylinder over the pipe and on top of the block. A 3/4" breaker bar and a pipe extension along with my weight broke down the packing nut and the rod nut with no problem. To reassemble I did the reverse and calculated the 450-500 ftlbs I needed to re-torque each by adding length to my breaker bar and put my full weight on it several times. Everything worked as planned and I have left the pipe in the ground for future use. Had I been standing next to my machine I would have used it to hold my cylinder.
i found seal kits for about half price of dealers,,,, site is hard to use,,, i wound up using thier 800 number with good help http://www.herculesus.com/home.php
I found a pretty good gland wrench at http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_8605.htm Ron
You can heat that nut to get it off easy. They have LockTite on them a lot of times anyway. Just buy a new nut when you go back together.
I purchased that same tool on amazon.com. It is a little over $5.00 cheaper. It is a high quality wrench with a lifetime warranty.
Yea Heat the bolt head and use loctite going back, look to be sure seal is what is leaking, they are bad to crack in the threads too, dont worry too much about rock chips in outrigger cyls. the seal wont be on that spot much as most chips are midway.Most any good hydro shop will rebuild & pressure check it for about what a kit would cost form a dealer. Hope this helps
Took all 4 cyls to central hydraulics in Daytona, and they had them rblt and tested before noon. They polished the rods where they were damaged, but would not guarantee the seals on that one. I'm gonn try the super glue trick. They said the seals would probably last as long as I needed the hoe as they are, since I only use it here on the farm.