Case 580K phase III. I decided to try rebuilding my first cylinder (loader dump). I can catch that bit with my fingernail so any suggestions on how to remove it? File seems a bit aggressive but I often pick the more aggressive emery cloth. I was pulling the rod out and got to about the gland threads and didn't have a great way to pull on it plus it was 95 in my shed. Yes this was a dumb idea to drive over to property and work on this today. So I put some air to it trying to be careful and the whole thing shot out of there and on the floor. I was being very easy on it but should have had a restraint....yeah that was dumb. I can't find any other damage. I brought the gland and piston back home with me as I started to take the wiper seal out and needed something better than what I had. Hey I can work on this at home in the A/C.
Just use a really fine file and clean it off. Make sure that you get it level so it is not high so it won’t rub on the inside of the tube. You are lucky you didn’t knick the rod.
Yeah I got lucky. My first two leaky cylinders on the hoe I had a pro rebuild them. He said the piston bolts were difficult but this being smaller I felt I needed to start doing this myself. 4' breaker bar loosened the piston nut which was a relief.
Yep, no problem at all, just make sure you get it down below the surrounding area. That area should never touch anything, anyway.
Oh, one more thing, be very careful, (and really don't do it!) pushing pistons out with air! It is totally different than using oil. Liquids don't compress, gases do. If the piston doesn't move immediately, you are storing up A LOT OF ENERGY! My brother laid one in a 10 yd loader bucket and put air to it because it was cocked. When it moved, it destroyed the bucket! People have killed themselves that way. Use oil or water if you must, not air.
Saw a steering cylinder rod go thru a shop roof once using air. Them noobs are dangerous.
If you have air, which you obviously do if you launched the cyl. rod, this tool works real good, and fast. I think $20 at harbor freight. Next time use a come-a-long or something like that if you cant muscle it out...dont forget to remove the line/hose from the blind side (bottom) of the cylinder or it will not pull out
That's really nothing. I've seen them where somebody wrapped a chain wrench around it! Believe it or not they still sealed. Myself I'd just knock it down level and smooth it out with a fine disc on a die grinder.
aluminum pistons can get scarred up a lot worse than that from crap going through, especially if the rod gets bent and they bind in the bore. same with steel pistons. damage to the piston usually can be cleaned up unless there has been a major failure. depends who is footing the bill
I use a come along, and I make sure I put lots of old cardboard boxes, old rugs, anything soft to make a landing zone for the rod assembly when it comes out. I am usually working by myself.
The guy that was rebuilding my cylinders had a piece of say 12"x2" steel channel with eyes welded on each end. He would lift it with his forklift at a comfortable height. The channel also caught any oil so it could drain into a bucket.
If you use water or oil, or diesel, use a porta power hand pump, or a small older tractor hydraulic remote, or an airless paint sprayer, they all have a relief valve and a way to bleed off the pressure. Don't use a pressure washer. And don't use air.
I tackled this today and the last seal to be installed (doing this at home not at property) is a red Hallite plastic type 755 that goes on top of the backup ring on the piston. I have the piston in the freezer right now and may put the seal in some boiling water. This kit was purchased from Hercules back in late October. Hey it was just dripping on occasion and hadn't blown out yet ..cut me some slack. I did buy their seal twisters and wow easy peasy. I see this plastic looking seal can handle 230* and could not really find out any tricks on sliding it up over the lip to drop down in the ring groove.
I had success a few minutes ago! I see some companies say use these thin plastic straps to pull the seal on and over into the groove. I improvised with two small 5"x1/8" tie wraps. I also had the seal in a pot of 165* water for a few minutes. You can still see the frost from my humid garage.