were to the point of settings valves on the d353 after the rebuild. The book isn’t to specific if it’s to be set hot or cold? Thanks
Unless the manual says otherwise those are cold settings. Been a long journey to that point, hope all goes well.
I was wondering just the other day how you got on with those U/S O/S main bearings ....
That’s what I was thinking. I had doubts when my brother pointed out a section saying turn engine off and set valves. But the section for valves just says install rocker assembly and set valves. It’s been a nightmare engine, anything and everything imaginable had to be replaced or fixed. We should have gotten a better core to start with. But it’s up and running. She fired on the fourth or fifth crank yesterday with no heaters and sounds good and has good oil pressure.
That was a nightmare, we gave up at one point for the last set of mains we were missing. But somehow 20 sets got listed of that bearing. We have a brand new set now but I do believe it’s the last full set on earth. We’re already looking for a decent core engine with a standard block and crank to replace this when the time comes. Because of this we went ahead and installed a pre lube pump on the engine. We are getting 20 psi before we crank it. Figured this should make things last a bit longer.
Glad to see positive progress! We see so many projects started with great promise.....then they go 10 kinds of sideways! Keep up the good work!
Thanks, we made sure we cleaned out everything really throughly. We changed every seal and bearing in all the drives and went with a new oil, water pump and fuel pump. Heads were remans pistons and liners were new. We sent the rods out and had them remachined and new wristpins bearings installed. We also changed out all the rod bolts. Also found all the rocker bushing spun so we had to replace all the rocker arms. We saved the blocks by welding them up and re grinding them. We’re still waiting on the new turbo to show up.
Looks mighty fine!!! Is that a pre-lube starter your referring to or a seperate pre-lube pump. Got a picture?
We looked at the pre lube starters but we could only find Chinese ones and they still were pricey. This is a stand alone pump. I want to change the filter to a spin on, this one was on hand. I welded a #12jic in the oil pan aces cover for a pick up, we are putting clean back into the main oil galley with a #10 jic. We have a 10pound check valve at the block end. Works okay we see a solid 20psi wish it was a bit more but it fills everything so the main pump kicks on the first crank.
That's a clean installation. 20 psi is plenty for prelube. Not sure the filter is needed as part of a prelube system but won't hurt anything as long as the pressure drop is not to great. I believe it to be a great feature and contributor to longer bearing life. Thanks for the pictures.
Thanks for the compliment. I wasn’t to sure on skipping the filter since it’s pulling from the sump. Figured it wouldn’t hurt to have it in there.
Most prelub system don't have a filter, although it likely won't hurt to have one. You may need some additional hose clamps on the hoses to stop them rubbing against the oil pan or frame parts when the equipment is working.
I wasn’t to sure on skipping the filter since it’s pulling from the sump. Figured it wouldn’t hurt to have it in there. I’ve got a few spots that I plan on installing some restraints to hold it from moving. I put sleeves on both hoses also. Hopefully we can get the torque converter back in and get the trans lines in. We are going to replace all the lines due to the age of them. I’ll post pics as it moves along.
We had both stand alone and starter powered systems. I understand the idea of using the starter, hey that electric motor is just sitting the why not use it! But for myself keeping the two separate is a better idea. If starter on a separate system fails the local truck shop probably has one on the shelf or can fix yours easy and the price is not bad. If the starter on an integrated system fails hang on to your wallet and/or be prepared to be down for a few days. If the pump or pump motor on a separate system fails most of the time they are built with a bypass harness you can simply plug in and be at work in a couple minutes. We had a starter powered system on one 980G that was killing starters. Starter filled with oil. At first it was blamed on a bad seal in the pump which made sense. Then after a couple repeat failures and talking with the Pre-Lube tech we were pointed to the check valve in the output line from the starter pump. Turns out the check valve was not sealing 100% and putting a steady 60+psi pressure against the seal in the pump. Not enough to cause low engine oil pressure but enough leaking by the seal to fill starter over a period of several months.
A wise move. Those combined starter motor/prelub pump units were nothing but trouble on any machine where I ever saw them fitted. I much prefer a separate electrically-driven pump unit.
The one I liked best was the one on the 773G we got a few years before I retired. That was set up with the fast oil change system where the pre-lube pump also did double duty to drain hydraulic oil, transmission oil and engine oil. Just set a pair of empty 55 gallon drums in front of right front tire plug in the drain hose tool and in a matter of a few minutes all three compartments were drained. It had an air powered valve system you shot a bit of air into to switch from one compartment to the next. Just had to remember to to do the engine oil last to to flush out the other oils from the pump. Other machines with the pre-lube systems had the set-up that just did the engine oil.