I blew a hydraulic hose on the inside of my 60-70 ish Cat D5. It goes from a 4 junction block in the engine compartment with two hoses from each side going out to the lift arms. There was a metal part number band on it stamped LO 8S4531. I have attached a picture. I cant seem to find where to get a replacement and its semi rigid so I believe the shape is important as it goes out through a hole in the side of the engine compartment. Anyone have any ideas?
Just take it to a good hydraulic shop and have them copy it. It is not a preshaped hose. It may seem like it is but that's just heat and age making it stiff.
What's the blade s/n? 8S4531 is not a good number. Could it be a 8S4431?
Like RZ pointed out it is that shape because it's old and the material has hardended. Any good hydraulic shop should be able to manufacture a replacement. The hose material will be Cat XT-3.
Can your local cat shop reuse those ends and sell you only the hose and o rings
The ends are reusable Cat can press them off and replace the hose Don't be afraid to price it at the Cat dealer either way they are usually cheaper for me
For information of the OP. Some Cat dealers are going away from reusable XT-3 fittings and instead are manufacturing new hoses with crimped-type end fittings. If you go that route ask them before they quote will they re-use the existing fittings (if possible) or simply build a complete hose using non-reusable end fittings.?
I know Finning here doesn't do the reusable fittings anymore.
And the way things are going, if they won't reuse fittings, you could ask for the old hose back to save 'just in case".
Yes you are correct 4431. Lots of good info here, I appreciate it! I may see how much all 4 would cost and replace them all. The 4 little bolts that hold the 2 clamps around the hose end are certainly a pain to get to, no way to use a ratchet I could figure out
I'm guessing your s/n but all four hoses have different part numbers.
OM was looking for the Serial Number on the blade. That's what determines the hydraulic lines for it. The blade is not part of the tractor, it's what's known as an attachment.
You actually only need to completely remove 1 bolt to get a hose out. If you look at it the way the clamps are split you remove the bolt in the centre of one clamp and then just loosen the other three. One half-clamp slides out and then the hose slides out of the other half-clamp that remains attached to the block, if you get my drift....... It also makes reinstalling the hose easier because you have a physical "stop" that the hose can butt up against. Nobody has mentioned it so far but be sure to replace the O-Rings on the ends of the hoses, if you don't they are sure to leak. When two hoses are mounted on a block like the one you have, sometimes there is a "sequence" to assembly/disassembly and it becomes necessary to remove one hose end (maybe not the one you are after) in order to get at the bolts securing the clamp on the other hose which is the one you are really looking to remove. A wobble socket or a thin-ended ring spanner is your friend in those circumstances.
In this case it works from the tractor s/n also. A full set of four is 8S4431, 2, 3, 4.
A cat dealer should be able to build those hoses from the number, anywhere else will need the old hose, or a measurement as long as there's no hose with two angled ends that have to be aligned correctly. We've already established that the hose is straight, just aged stiff in that shape.
Yeah, the XT-3 fittings are now obsolete. In my experience it was very rare if the fitting could be reused anyway. Usually an old one was so rusted inside that it was junk when they pressed it apart.
If it is the diagonal cut split flange, yes one bolt is enough. The old style you still have to remove two bolts. And you still want to take both halves off to clean the dirt and crud out of the groove for the flange.
you can use a ratchet just use a 3_8 craftsman swivel socket, may have to break loose i have a extension for open and box end that comes in handy. all old school from d6c days on trans and the ones your working on, good idea on all four only have to wash rad once,and luck did not catch on fire first time.
Thanks all. Got all the hoses and working on machine. Is there a hydraulic fill procedure to bleed air? I lost a lot of fluid. Also does anyone have the torque specs for the bolts that hold the hose end fittings to cylinder junction?
30-35 lb ft for 3/8" bolts, tighten them evenly to avoid bending the clamps. The clamps will have a small amount of clearance under them when tightened. That's necessary to keep the hose flange tight to the block. To bleed the air, fill the reservoir to "Full" and operate the controls several times in both directions to fill the lines and cylinders. Stop and check the oil level immediately if you hear the pump growl, other wise after cycling the controls set every thing on the ground and check the oil level again. Should be good to go after that.
Thanks all!!
Looks good!
Was their a "right sequence" to install the hoses to get best access to the hardware, or was it simply a case of having the right tools..?
Not sure about the OP, but I have quite a collection of different bent 9/16" wrenches.
I just did them one by one. The newer hoses have more clearance at the ends than the older ones that makes getting a ratchet and socket on them a little easier. My big hands didnt help much! I bought two buckets of hydraulic fluid and it's still not full