The transmission in my D5M will not go into any gear forward or reverse it just stopped I don't think I have any pressure from pump on the back of the converter asking for advice where to start
First start would be a Serial Number. Second question would be if you know how to get into the display panel of the Monitor System to access Diagnostic Codes in the electronics.?
No not yet do I. Need scanner?
I'll get sn# in a minute not to machine yet
Added D5M to the thread title. My suggestion would be to provide whatever information Nige requests. You are in good hands.
I'll get it in a few minutes
I don't think so. With a S/N I can look it up. Back to the rectangular display screen. When the machine is running does the SERV CODE icon in the top RH corner of that screen stay on.?
SN#4BR00364
Darn. I think you are going to need a scanner because it appears you have the older version of the monitor System that does not have the digital display. Does it look like the illustration below.?
Can you give a bit more background on what happened immediately before the machine quit. Specifically did any alarms sound.?
I believe the transmission temperature light is blinking even when the machine is just started
When we would first start the machine every time you go get on it it would not go into gear I'd have to put it back in a neutral and come back in the gear again and then it would usually take off. When it quit I was running it I was pushing at Boulder up a hill and i had to back down and take another pass and get one out from underneath the tracks and it just wouldn't go back into reverse
OK, so a scanner will be no use because the system on your machine is too early for that type of diagnostics. Makes it easier in one way, harder in another. Pull the transmission dipstick and look at the oil. Is is clear and bright or dark and cloudy.? Does it smell burned.?
Little bit of darkness doesn't smell to bad maybe a little bit
I have an oil-filled gauge we put it on the back of the torque converter the pump and up on top of the by the filter and I wasn't reading any pressure
That doesn't sound too promising. My suggestion would be to drop the oil from the transmission (collect it in a clean container if you fancy trying to use it again), then remove the transmission suction screen and inspect for particles both metal and non-metal. Take photos of whatever you find. Next question: Can you feel any looseness in the transmisson control lever.? In other words can you clearly feel the detents between each one of the 3 gears in both forward and reverse.? I would imagine in a tractor the age of yours the spherical joints in the control linkage must be getting pretty worn.
Since the problem occurred it feels like the the shifter little different but I figured that was just because there was no oil going to the tranny
If the pump goes out does it go out all at once or would you notice it slowly getting weak
That could be the case. Part of the transmission control valve locks the direction/speed spools if there is insuficcient pressure. It all depends on how it fails I would say. Attached is the testing and adjusting for the transmission. If you don't want to check on the suction screen first then do all the tests and come back with your results. Be aware that you could have a brake problem that is pulling oil from the transmission via the priority valve. EDIT: TBH I would strongly suggest you drain the oil and take a look at the screen before proceeding further.
If the machine still moves (foward or backwards) try to get it up on some wood/logs/blocks to gain some space under the machine...even so, you'll still need a shovel to gain clearance for the drain pan(s) and access to drain plug...but Nige is spot on...capture the oil and then look at the pick-up screen, and if able get a new paper filter (secondary filter, don't forget new o-rings)...the hope is the filters are (semi) plugged and causing the pump trouble (vs the pump having trouble!). Lastly, do your best to trace the pickup/suction line to see if your rubber coupler is leaking and/or sucking air (might be as simple as a busted clamp?!).
Thanks for your info you guys are awesome maybe I'll drop belly pans tomorrow or first of week. I'll get back to you what I found.
Screen was clean, magnets have very little metal oil is darker than I thought
Does the oil smell burned at all.? There is nothing in that screen/magnet assembly to suggest anything amiss in the transmission, which is a good thing.
Yes a little but not scorched
I guess the next step would be to look closely at the transmission pump suction line between the screen assembly and the pump inlet to check for any possible air leakage in the suction side.
I haven't pulled the top filter yet I'll do that today but that has bypass if plugged I believe
I would suggest that you look at the suction side of the pump before moving on to the pressure side. There are all sorts of things on the pressure side, including a system relief valve and the priority valve. The attached describes how the system works. There is a possibility that a brake problem could be causing this issue.
Is there a drain and screen in converter as well?
Yes there is. #20 on the illustration below.
Doesn't look good I see brassy black dirty oil
Maybe time for a look inside the pump.?
Tranny disc? Or brakes?
Is that where the brass color is coming from
There is no brass in either the brakes or the tranny AFAIK, apart from maybe thrust washers that would not cause a lack of oil pressure. Also the pump is a lot easier to access (and to confirm/discount any potential problem) than either the brakes or the tranny.
Witch pump?
The scavenge pump or the drive train pump?
It's all in the same pump. It is 3-section pump; scavenge, transmission & steering clutches/brakes, and torque converter + cooling.
That's a test port on the top of the drivetrain pump
Certainly not good, but also NOT zero ; )! Sarcasm aside- 1. Do you know what fluid/weight oil is being used? 2. How much fluid came out when you drained it? Level-wise, it seemed ok? A$$ume you reused the old stuff 3. Were you able to drain/clean the screen on the converter side? Did it have an excessive amount in that compartment? 4. Did you pull the paper filter to see what it caught/looks like? 5. How long have you had this machine (do you know it’s PM history)? 6. Were you able to see/verify the (entire) suction line is intact (not crushed, or leaking)? Certainly looking like ur pump has died, but I also haven’t read the 59-page attachment cover to cover to see if any of the other components would create enough free-flow so a no-pressure (low-pressure) situation could occur…were the brakes acting weird before this all began? wish you best of luck getting the ole girl pushing again!!
You really need a gauge with a much lower maximum pressure. I would suggest 500psi max rather than the 5000psi one you are using now. It's quite probable there is some pressure there but the gauge you are using will be so inaccurate close to zero that it is most likely not registering accurately. Next stop remove the pump and open it up for a look. There is no point in going further downstream in the powertrain hydraulic system until you know the pump is working OK. See the attachment.
Test ports for tranny and converter is it a plug or a little quick dicconect nipple?
Should be quick disconnect if they are all still original. The connector is a Cat 6V-4143 or aftermarket equivalent. Quick coupler one side, 1/8" NPT female thread the other.
Priority valve has 500 . torque converter inlet is it 38 psi And the torque converter outlet is at 38 PSI
Well that indicates it is not a pump problem. Is there any difference in the transmisson speed clutch pressure between the parking brake applied and released.?
I forget which one at the moment One of them did change when I took the parking brake off. I'm barely getting any oil on the back of the cat under the tank .do you think it's converter?
Well we need to focus on that issue right now. Go back and hook up to the test point for the speed clutch pressure. With the transmission control in neutral test the pressure at Low Idle RPM with the parking brake applied then release the brake and carefully watch what happens to the pressure. Not at this point. See above.............
So took transmission cover of the back of cat to exspose valve body. I noticed when friend moved the direction valve with cat off of course seemed oil came out of the end of valve. Is that normal ?
Seems like clutch plaTes have lots of slope in them as well
Can you tell me if that's supposed to be a oil line it's on the in side of bevel gear case just behind where the priority valve is
This is probably the best available view of the inside of the case. The port in your photo could be simply a dump port for the priority valve for bypass oil to return straight back into the rear case that functions as the oil pan for the powertrain. See the illustration.
What does 10 -12 do it's a bolt and washer thats where it looks like something's missing
I don't know. However there are 2 bolts/washers called out in the parts list, so it would appear that they are either for a cover plate or for mounting something. I don't see any threaded holes anywhere around the port in your earlier photo so it's unlikely the bolts install anywhere in that area. Can you find the location of the bolts inside the case.? They appear to be low-ish down on the RH side whereas the priority valve installs quite high up on the RH side
It sounds like oil is spraying pretty excessively in bevel case. then when shut machine down oil keeps running for a long time like oil pressure from whole system drains out so I'm not sure pump? Maybe priority valve? Or can one part of pump take **** and other part still pump ? I got 10 psi on supply test port .and 500 at priority valve and 38 psi ant torque converter out and in let ????
No oil at all at speed clutch or directional test ports I think lube port has ten psi