hello i figured i would start my own thread due to i did not want to hi jack the other thread. i have tried using the search but i have not yet figured out how to uses this forums search button what i have is a D6C 10k shes a little ruff but i have a few question about her due to this is the largest dozer i have owned. so to start off i am having trouble with my hydraulics they still work but end up being very slow raising up. i have made sure that i have the right amount of hydraulic fluid. when i first start using it it raises really fast but once it warms up the hydraulics start running really slow that if i don't give it some throttle it will not move barely. but it still lowers really fast. Any ideas of what my problem maybe i am hoping i just need to change the filters but have not had a chance to do it yet oh and anther thing is i think my fuel supply pump is going out because there is diesel coming out of the weep hole i just found this after i put my new inline fuel filter and hose on. i used a filter for a fuel tank with a sediment bowl on it and a 10 micro filter and i ran it all weekend no problems. i reduced the filter head from 1" to 3/8". but there is a lot of junk in the tank. thanks every body for the help. heres a couple pics of it with the family http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd343/rollinsmoke05/100_1674.jpg http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd343/rollinsmoke05/100_1672.jpg
Sounds like the pump cartrige has seen its day, remember to lower all raised equipment.
10-4 that was unsafe normally i would lower the blade just a spur of the moment picture. where is the pump located at and about what would it cost to replace the pump thanks for the reply
If it's like mine the fuel pump gear is on the front of the fuel pump. May just be bad seals, but bushing wear in the pump may also be a problem. You have to pull the fuel pump to change the seals. Take the front cover off to pull the drive gear so the pump will come out. When putting the pump back on it will have to be retimed (no key on pump drive gear). The timing is set by a timing pin on the pump and a bolt hole in the flywheel. There's a whole procedure in the manual to tell how to do it. It's not a horrible job, but has to be done right. The hyd pump is at the left rear side of the engine...hyd pump and trans pump drive off the same area.
Does it have 30 Wt. oil or hyd oil ?
I am not sure what kind of fliud they had in it but I put hydraulic fluid in it what should I used. For the tranny I used 30wt in it. What would it cost to get Hyd pump rebuilt also how hard is it to get out thanks for the reply
They use 30wt in hyd. & tranny
Shouldn't be hard to get out since it's mounted along the side and pretty open to get at. To buy one from Cat won't be cheap...there are several different pumps listed in the book...price online from Cat ran from 800-$1500. I'd bet you can get one cheaper aftermarket, or better yet you might find one used from a dismantled machine. I might check hyd pressure from pump before tearing it apart (cold & hot)...
Tranny fluid is 30w, but not 30w engine oil....it's 30w Trans/Drivetrain oil. My book lists the hyd oil as 10w Hyd oil....I've been using Case IH HyTran
Here's a scan of the operational checklist...
Transmission i have always used 30W motor oil,but now they say to use the 30W special transmisson oil Cat sells,more addtives for disk faces in the transmisson.I have a D6H that has over 18,000 hour using 30w motor oil and still going,never touched.Did go too the other this time when i rebuilt the convertor. Also used 10W motor oil in the hydraulic,but also started using Cat new hydraulic also.18k on the hydraulic pump also.You use to be able too rebuild the hydraulic pump with new bushings and waffle seals.I would just replace with a classic reman.Save yourself a lot of gruff. Fuel injection pump needs rebuild would be my guess.Good luck!
ok so which is it because i did do some research on the forum and alot of people are using rotella 30wt motor oil or 15w 40 motor oil as well but i would like to know for a fact with to use before i put any more hours on it with possibly the wrong oil in it. thanks for the replys its alot of help.
I think Cat has updated what they recommend over the years. Currently they say use TDTO-30 in trans, but my manual for a 10k (printed in '82) lists CD (engine) oil) metting the TO-2 spec. I'm not sure the "CD" spec is even still in use for engine oil. I'd be concerned that the current engine oils would be to slippery for trans clutches.
http://www.antiquecaterpillar.org/ http://www.acmoc.org/bb/ You might also want to register on these forums as there is a lot of really good information you can get from the members on both of them. The D6C is one of the best built and well liked tractors that Cat produced and still command good prices. In addition to many other parts souces.. you might want to look up American Independent, a member here, Trevor De Andro is the contact and they were able to help my employer find parts they needed. Tell him Alan Hynes sent you..... Link to their website http://americanindependentinc.com/ Take good enough care of that Cat and the little man will be running it for you someday! Nice tractor too. Hope this helps, welcome aboard! Alan
thank you guys for all the help give me some time and i will have some more questions.
In the hydraulic tank you will find 2 filters 1 on top of another, the bottom 1 is often not changed by mechanic's lacking information??? or checking things out.
Need the engine arrangement & tractor s/n to tell if it's early (scroll) or late (sleeve metering) as they use different fuel transfer and injection pumps. Slow rise and fast fall could also indicate internal seal leakage in the blade cylinders.
I'm going to be dragging an old D6C out of the barn on my wifes inherited cattle ranch this weekend. They have had it since new, has not run for 5 years. Can't have many hours on it, looks straight, direct drive though, dozer/drawbar, no rops 74A2478. Watch for pics next week in "old iron" under barn find. Going to clean her up for Ritchie Bros.
Thats a good lookin filly...dozer also !! haha
One thing about the blade cylinders.Do they leak down at all if so is it slow are fast?Does fluid run down the rams? The blade was raised in the photo but for how long? The pump and most parts for a D6C can be bought after market.
You can look at a couple things on the machine and tell it is a later serial number machine.The Hydraulic pump is a Victors vane type and the cartridge can bought at any good Hydr. Shop. Just make sure toinstalll cartridge the right way. I just got one from Heavy Quip. in Kansas City I'll Have to look to see what it cost. The Dive shaft for the pump is Cat only, But you can find it aftermarket also. Construct'o I have also used 30W Motor oil in all the D6C/D I have had good luck . I use 10W oil in the Hydr. system with good luck. I was told many years ago to use what ever oil you are using in the motor in the rest of the machine. I been using 20W oil in the newer D6's and have had good luck. I just don't want to have to carry 20 different oils with me.
We were told to run straight 10w in the tranny. Come to think of it im not sure what is in the hydralic system but I did add some light weight hydralic oil. I also run 15w-40 in the engine.
Thanks for the replys well i changed the filters on her on friday and that seemed to help some what now it just seems that when they are under a load they do not want to raise up as fast so could be bypassing in the lift cylinders and yes they do leak a little around the seal but not very much. I am needing some input on the best way to extract broken bolts the front bottom roller on the left side has been missing since i got the machine the bolts are broken to where i can not weld anything to them to extract i am thinking drilling a hole threw them and using a extractor but i been told you can cut a hole in the side of the rail to get the broken piece out all four bolts are broken. i need to build a different style limb riser because this one sucks quiet frankly. i broke my muffler this weekends and she is probly just going to get a straight pipe. also does anybody have some ideas for tree knockers i want to make it a little easier on the machine. i had a tree i was trying to push out not very big but i tryed cutting the ruts pushed from every corner this thing would not come out i could not dig it out do to ground conditions being to wet under top layer so i gave up later that day i had to use my d3c in the area so i said what the hay lets give it a try sure enough i raised up on it with my tree pusher and over it went i could not believe this. i did clear some fence rows with the 6 and wow i made some tracks i love it now i just need to get in there with my root rake and clean it up a little. thanks again for the help
Do you ever do anything else to improve your hyd. power problem? My D6C does the same thing, but will pull the motor power down if the blade is heavily loaded.
On your broken bolts drama, I do plenty of this sort of work and find it faster to remove the track frame and tip the frame over, then I set to the task by drilling a hole straight through the broken bolt about 1/4" dia,then its out with the gas cutting set and a watering can, then I blow out the bolt with the torch splashing on the water to get the last remnants of the bolt out with the torch, I have done a complete frame full in a morning, this also gives you the chance to check the Equalizer bar mounts and condition, allow around the day to whip off and on the blade, split and fit the track, pop the frame and refit after the bolts are sorted. tctractors
I have another question about how to adjust the steering clutches they do not seem to be releasing all the way is this adjusted under the fuel tank?
Here's scans of the adjustment procedure for the steering clutches & brakes...I'd start with those two things. Hopefully that fixes it for you, I've been chasing the same problem of clutches not completely releasing for some time. Mine has to do with a low oil pressure problem and it's been difficult to find what the problem(s) are. Narrowed it down to about four things: steering clutch valve, transmission relief valve, sequence relief valve, or steering clutch pistons....but still have a few things to check. (Brake adjustment bolts are under two small covers under the fuel tank....one on each side) View attachment Cat0001.pdf View attachment Cat0002.pdf
Hey J did you ever get a tree pusher for your 6?
No I sure didn't I need to get one put to gather just been busy. You got some ideas??
Dad purchased a used one off of a D I will be mounting as soon as we can finish the job its on and get it home. I will take some pics for ya if ya'd like if we ever get it home that is.
Raise the blade all the way up and hold it. Then when you let the handle go the blade may drop slightly on one side indicating oil bypassing internally in blade lift cylinder. In my old d6c I run cat TDTO 30w in the tranny and cat 10w hydraulic oil in hydraulics. Works just fine. The problem I found with running engine oil in hydraulics is it tends to foam pretty bad