I have a D6D that after you run it for a while the left side will not pull anymore. Any advice?
Sounds like your steering clutch is probably shot.
Does anyone have a quick run through of how to get into the steering clutch compartment. I’ve never worked on one of these specific tractors.
Or does anyone know a quick test to make sure tht the clutches are bad before I tear it apart
You have to remove the entire seat assembly, so the seat and covers. If it has a cab, that has to be tilted or removed.
There is a pressure check port in the line that releases the clutch, but that won't tell you if it's slipping. I might check the filter and magnetic screen for debris. Clutch can be done without pulling fuel tank but I won't do it that way again. Drain the oil, pull the tank, seat, & brake actuator to get into top of case. Unbolt clutch flanges and lift out clutch using the brake band to lift it.. You'll have to rotate the clutch to access all the bolts which moves the machine so either jack it up or plan ahead for movement. While in there I'd check everything else like the other clutch and bevel gear bearings. In order to fix anything beyond the clutch you'll have to have special hydraulic pullers.
Thanks for the reply. Very helpful. Are these clutches supposed to be dry clutches? And is there a drain in the compartment to drain the oil if any? It’s very confusing situation the machine runs for 3 to 4 hours and then the left side won’t pull anymore
Wet clutches. The oil circulates through torque converter, trans, and bevel gear case. Can't remember how much system holds but in the neighborhood of 20+ gallons. There are actually 3 drain plugs (if it's just like my D6c) They're under the bevel gear case. One in center and one under each side. You can probably drain it just from center plug. If the oil is good you might consider pumping it out and saving it.... it's probably $80-90 for a 5 gal bucket. (Cat TDTO-30 at) You can probably pull the clutch without draining the oil but if you drop a socket you'll have to go fishing.
Unless there is an issue with the clutch actuation valve. As the oil gets thinner with heat maybe the valve spool leaks putting pressure onto the clutch pack.
Good point.... couldn't think of anything else that could cause the problem.
If that is the case, checking pressure at the clutch tube port when it's happening would be benifitial and let you know. There shouldnt be any pressure when the valve is closed. If you have an actuator valve leaking you would see enough pressure to open the clutch plates when there shouldn't be any. This is a late post so hopefully you've got it whipped already!
Thanks for the information. I have the same problem .
Have a gander at the control linkage and the steering valves, make sure everything is clean and clear, return springs are in place (It's been twenty years so don't take my word for anything) and the plungers are not sticking. Might be a broken spring in the clutch valve for that side. Most likely just tired. I've done a few sixes and sevens, best to check pressures before you pull everything in case there's need of further surgery to correct a bad seal somewhere that's bypassing. I also recommend if you're going to do one yank them both, haul them over to your local cat Stealer and have them rebuild the clutch packs and brake bands, and machine the OD of the brake drum, they get glazed over time. Operators tend to turn the same way all the time when spinning around, so usually one steering clutch is a lot more worn than the other.