I'm in mid job on the exhaust manifold replacement 3306 turbo. Cat sending new manifold, gaskets, studs, nut, spacers etc Couple questions: Never-seize on studs and nuts? Tightening torque on those studs, and tightening procedure? I've Never done this before. Thx Ken
20 lbft on studs,32lbft nuts .Anti seize on both, the tapered end of stud goes in head. You know Cat will print out this info and put it in your parts sack if you ask ? Bob
You did not give a S/N but this should be good for just about any 3306 exhaust:
Broke 6 out of the 12 studs. Asked around and found everyone (including Toromont) recommended a fellow named Mass to come out. Took about 6 hours. Young fellow has all manner of tiny bits and pieces to drill them out, rethread, helicoil. Makes his own tooling as a matter of course. Travels the province doing mostly exhaust studs, 02 sensors, and spark plugs. Typical call takes about 15 minutes, then off to the next one. Pretty impressive. He uses aircraft industry angle die grinder, sharpens his own bits as needed, and with a very light touch, very slow turning bit, light backpressure on the bit, it just bites into the stud and hogs it out quick and easy. Those studs were likely hard as glass but they came out like they were made of butter. He makes it look easy, but he does nothing but stud removal all day everyday for 10 years
Next question. I have a leak on the injection pump. See the attached pic. Its a very slow oil leak, but its enough to keep that seam washed clean. The fuel ratio control assy is bolted to the governor assy with 2 long bolts, one of which is stripped. So the problem is the internal thread on the governor assy housing is bad and needs redone. I wonder if I can remove the fuel ratio control assy without a million parts falling out in the process. If i can, then this fellow with the helicoils could fix me up no problem. Thoughts? Oh, btw, SN is 3yg06269 D6H
In response to the stud driller guy not the injection pump problem.
As soon as I read exhaust manifold studs I was gonna recomend heating the nuts glowing red then let them cool and oil them still warm. Repeat a few times and they usually loosen up. Same with the studs.
Should not be any pile of parts falling out when fuel ratio control comes off. If there is you have another problem. Control is held on by two 1/4-20 bolts 3 3/4 inches long. and at that seam that is leaking there should be four separate orings/seals. In picture below Seal numbers are : #2 033-5879, #3 8J8343, #25 8M8515, #26 5P6620 And this is what you should see when it is removed, that flange on the shaft to the right in picture hooks into a slot in a part in the governor. Should be obvious one you remove the control. Believe you have to lift the control up a bit to get it to unhook. It will be hooked on the fork like part circled in red below:
Thanks a lot Kshansen. I looked at all those pics on the parts system, but a few words from you clears it all up. thanks a lot. Ken
if you have a welder you just weld nuts onto the broken studs and most of the time they come right out the first time, if not just repeat, even if they are broken below surface you can build it up with weld and then the nut..
not being a smart azz, what is the right tool for taking out old rusted and seized exhaust studs? aside from the normal heating, penetrating oil or whatever mixture of chemicals one soaks the studs with...
That's the best way to get them out. It's easier if you lay a flat washer down first to weld the stud to if it's flush or below.
The right tool was what he said, hire the guy with the guided grinder thing. I wish that guy worked around here.