I am working on a d6m xl. It has 10 codes. im not sure if some or all are active. 030 011008 030 027106 030 009603 030 032406 113 016803 113 016804 113 072203 113 017703 113 069307 The other problem I'm having is the dozer will not start. when the initial self check completes the key will not move into the start position. if i move the key just passed the run position before the self diagnostic it will move into the start position but all i get is one click and nothing. Is there an ignition lock out or something caused by the codes that is stopping the key from turning or the starter from working? the click noise seems to come from the compartment with the battery kill switch. the dozer has sat for almost 5 years. im not sure what it was doing before i arrived to try and fix it. any help would be apreciated. and if you need a i can try and clarify.
The way you're describing it the click sounds for all the world like a solenoid that doesn't have enough oomph in the batteries. Are the batteries new and how many amp-hour are they rated at..? Have you done the basics such as cleaning all the battery cable connections, especially the grounds, and doubly so of the machine has sat for so long. Others will have to confirm this but I'm fairly sure that there's nothing in any Diagnostic Code that would prevent the engine starting. Of your codes the ones starting 030 are in the Monitor System, those starting 113 are on the Transmission Control. I haven't got access into SIS to say exactly what they are.
Other issue could the key switch itself. Cat ignition switches only give you one shot to the start position and then you have to turn it back to off to try it again. I'm sure someone will be along shortly to define the codes. More than likely those are stored codes. If any are active the graphic SERVCD will flash in the upper right corner of the display.
030 110 08 engine temp sensor abnormal signal 030 271 06 action alarm high current 030 096 03 fuel level sensor high voltage 030 324 06 action lamp high current 113 168 04 voltage below normal 113 722 03 brake voltage above normal 113 177 03 trans temp voltage above normal 113 693 07 speed 3 solenoid 3 mechanical system not responding Mark
The batteries are new and fully charged. They are 950 cranking amps. I am getting voltage to the solenoid on the body that is about 18 inches above the starter. However I don't really understand how this one functions as it has a pigtail coming from it this i assume is the power that triggers the switch. there is a thick red line that comes from the starter and then it has a black line going to ground. most switches like this im familiar with go from the battery to the starter. what does this switch do and how do I test it? I'm considering this as the fault because it is the cheaper part to replace. I am going to go in and clean the rust off the grounds next. where should I be checking for voltage and what should I expect at these points? I have checked all the fuses.
For a machine that has stood for 5 years I would suggest a thorough cleaning of all the battery/starter/ground cables should be your next step before proceeding further. Also post the Serial Number (or as a minimum the S/N prefix) so that someone can help you out with a correct Electrical Schematic for your machine. Once you have that then following the starting circuit should be fairly easy. I would offer but my computer is in the fritz at the moment. One other question. Have you tried turning the engine over by hand using a socket on the crankshaft pulley or a turning tool on the flywheel..? Suggesting replacing parts simply because they're relatively cheap isn't really the right way to find the problem IMHO.
the serial number is 3wn00XXX ill be cleaning the contacts tomorrow. ill also give the crank a turn and see where that gets me. the starter schematic would be very handy in figuring out where im going with this. thank you very much this has already been immensely helpful.
I'm only sorry I can't help more but a smart phone really isn't the weapon of choice when it comes to downloading rather large pdf files from the interweb.....
here is ele sch in pdf View attachment D6M 3wn SENR8392SENR8392-02_SIS.pdf if the relay is mounted on the right hand side engine canopy it is the intake heater relay Mark
ok. i got it started. i had to take the starter solenoid apart and clean the contactor plate and lugs. they were black with slag and corrosion. but once done it started like a champ. my problem now is the warning alarm sounds immediately after start up. it goes off once every 3 seconds. the engine oil temp gauge, this is the one at the upper left corner of the dashboard, is pegged in the red. i think this corresponds to the fault code 030 110 08 engine temp sensor abnormal signal. if i am correct then i need to replace the sensor. where is this particular sensor at? i assume its in the bottom in the oil. also concerning this code 030 271 06 action alarm high current. how would i go about fixing that as it also might be setting off the alarm?
Right, I have my PC up & running again - whoopee ......... There are procedures available for both the Diagnostic Codes you have. The Action Alarm is sounding because of the CID110 FMI08 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Diagnostic Code, not because of the Action Alarm CID271 FMI06 Code - which does need diagnosing and fixing BTW, but it's not the reason your alarm is going off. Drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send you the diagnostic procedures for both Codes.