Machine #D6R #5LN02787 I am needing to replace the equalizer bar end bearings and seals and am wondering if it can be done without removing the bar from the machine? I know that the manual says remove the track frame but it sure looks like it would come out without track frame removal. I have the bearings, seals and new snap rings along with the center bushing and seals on hand if I need them also Any tips and tricks would be appreciated. I am getting some good heavy blocks to crib up the nose in the morning. Also what are my options if the bearing bore is damaged when I get it apart?
Yup, You're on the right track. It helps to have someone operate to align end pin bores to the track frames. I've always undone and removed the pivot shaft seal retainer bolts prior to moving the tractor out of the track frames. Set up some good cribbing under the front of the tractor and give yourself enough room to work. If the end pin bores are in good shape then I freeze the spherical bearings and heat the bores up good before assembly. You may want to check for play in the center pin as well since you're down there and all. Probably a good time to make sure that all the joints are getting lube as well. If however, the end pin bores on your hardbar are shot and you don't want to remove it it will have to be line bored in frame which can end up being completely cost and time prohibitive. I've seen a guy repair an end pin bore with a box of 7018 and a Miller older than me. Took him 3 days and a whole lot of buffing but it took the bearing and is still pushing pay in the cut today. In my experience if you can avoid pulling that center pin out, do so. Good luck!
In my experience, if the end bushings are bad the middle isn't far behind.
....and usually requires something like a mini-torch to get it out. They’re usually not keen on moving however many tons you put on them.
The D6R E-Beam if made with 2 strips to protect the grease location will NOT come out from its location or allow you to replace any end bearings, that is with the middle pin removed and the tractor nose jacked right up until the Sprockets are nearly touching the track frame, the easiest way to tackle them is to split both tracks and spin them off, then raise the nose with a jack until you have a slack feel in the beam, remove the front and rear belly pans and the grease line to the mid pin, then remove the bolt holding the mid pin in place also draw out the pin, if this comes out its time to smile, then sledge hammer the outer pins out you can fit a hollow cylinder to help but a big hammer will be needed, then remove the dead shaft cover (5 bolts) this will let you look at the seal cap that needs pulling out by inserting a 3/8 bolt plus removing the filler plug from the top of the frame, behind it is a plate with 6 bolts? stud lock fitted so remove this then push out the frame about 1"1/2 will give you enough clearance to remove the beam, you cannot replace any of the end bushings by just removing a pin. tctractors ps. the track frame has insert bushings in it that will always need replacing, to find the part number look on the frame picture you will see an arrow pointing to nothing, that's what you need.
Is this what you are referring to Tony.? Area "D". 2 bushes Ref #28. Part Number 9U-8482.
That's the Spot Nige, in the D6H parts book they were very hard to pin down. tctractors
I've got the bar out but now have more questions. Both end bores need work. What would a shop charge to weld and bore the end holes ? Cat wants $ 6630 for genuine Cat Bar. 4165.97 for a reman and 2652.09 for a cast replacement bar. All across the pond they say. I am wondering if I should spend a few days with a welder and grinder to build them back up or buy a different bar. Any chance of finding a salvage bar anywhere? I am located in northern Kansas.
Here's a pic of one end bore
Also what is the consensus on these aftermarket bars? https://www.ebay.com/itm/184900405200
Just had my equalizer bar end bores and center done at a machine shop. They rebored and seated the new bushings and seals. They also cut 1/2 off all my rollers so they quit hitting the pin bosses and I could run out my rails. Charged me 1700 for all that.
Looks like someone was in there before you removing an old bearing with a gas axe.
We've repaired a few of these. The biggest problem is the two snap ring grooves which are all but impossible with a bore rig. We set the bar up in a layout machine and overbore the ends about halfway to the OD of the seals. Then we turn a bushing out on the lathe (snap ring grooves are easy) and bevel both ends, then press the bushing into the bar and tig weld it into place. I fill the cavity with #2 grease instead of 80w90 and they seem to last a lot longer. I would fix what you have.
Great idea.. That is exactly what I envisioned doing if I had a mill capable of boring that and my little Southbend lathe was a bit bigger. As it is I found a shop to do the work and may have it back next week.
Looks exactly what they did to mine at the machine shop.
Post some photos when you get it back from the machine shop.
Sorry no photos. When I got it back it had the spherical bearings and all the seals already installed so there was not much to see anyway. My bar came out without messing with the track frames. I hammered out the end pins and luckily got the center pin out without too much trouble. I then raised the nose up as far as I could and blocked it good. I lowered my crane hook from my service truck down between the track and tractor frame and lifted on end of the equalizer bar up which allowed the other end to just slip down out of its mount. Then tied a chain on it and drug it out the back. Reassembled it the same way but added a snatch block on the opposite side and used my ATV winch to raise it back up. I then went to drive the machine over the bellypans to install them and promptly blew a hyd. line for the blade tilt. At least it happened before I got the pans on. Hopefully this ends my adventures for now. I just need to install a set of sweeps I picked up the other day and I can get back to work. Thanks to everyone for the advice so far.
A question for the experts. If these bars are pinned at both ends and swivel in the middle and thus travel in an arc. As the track frame moves up and down. Doesn't it also have to flex in and out on the pivot shaft as the equalizer bar travels in an arc? Does this lead to damage/wear in the pivot shaft area as that area would have to flex?
Yes, you would thing so wouldn't you? In practice the relatively small arc of the equalizer bar seems to be happily accommodated by the clearance in the pivot shaft bearings.
I haven't been into a Cat equalizer bar, but the center section of the Komatsu bar is a big multi ring rubber bushing. Any swing in the radius is accounted for in that bushing.
The pin locations on the frame for the E/Bar are not true (square) to the frame allowing the bearing in the beam end to slide along the pin as required to compensate for the change in length that results as the frame moves up and down, the fact that you managed to remove your beam without unbolting the thrust cap on 1 of the pivot shafts is odd, I have dome at least 10 beam swaps on D6R's and have never had 1 lift out without easing 1 frame about an inch or so out to get enough clearance, you can only lift the front of the Dozer up so much as the sprockets will hit the t/frame. tctractors.
After I read your earlier post about having to loosen the track frame pivot I was fully expecting it to not come out like it did. I had all 3 pins out of the bar and had the front jacked all the way up until the sprockets were just about to touch and was able to drop one end of the bar down into a bit of a pocket which allowed it to slide far enough to the side for the other end to come up out of the mount. I was pleasantly surprised. Maybe I just got lucky also.