What is the torque spec on the sprocket bolts on a d6r ii?
Put SAE30 oil on the threads of the bolts for the segments. Tighten nuts to a torque of 175±40 N·m (129±23 lb ft). Then tighten the nuts by an additional 1/3 turn. The final torque must be a minimum of 380 N·m (280 lb ft)
Nige. I've seen people put oil on sprocket bolts. Really make that much difference? We got another dozer this year to work on. Book calls for bolts to be torqued to 950 pounds. I'll oil them too
If you don't use oil then the torque you apply will have to be correspondingly higher, but by how much..? Who knows..?
If the bolt are clean/wire brushed, but dry, increase torque requirement by 30% And I like anti-seize over oil for most applications, more weather resistant. Howard
Problem is with anti-seize that (depending on type of anti-seize) the torque would need to be reduced by up to 50% from the specified figure. I do have a table with the exact numbers somewhere. The issue I have with using anti-seize on torqued (especially torque-turn where the fastener is taken very close to its elastic limit) fasteners when the use of anti-seize is not specified in the assembly procedure is that you run a very real risk of over-tightening the bolts and having them fail in single-cycle overload.
You don't want anti-seize on sprocket bolts, ever. Use oil or locking compound. Damn things are hard enough to keep from coming loose and letting the segements walk, and you should never reuse them, so why bother? Torch them off and put new ones back. :my2c
My experience is sprocket bolts always get red loctite whenever they get done. Prone to coming loose and have a very demanding job. It is one of the few times I ignore the Cat procedure (oil) and use only red loctite.
i would rather not get started on a anti-seize or oiled or dry fastener torque issue. I have my own way of doing things, but I can do the engineering on a connection. I like anti-seize to prevent galling and sticking, plus rust, put also know that stretch is the key issue in preload, and torque is just one way of getting there. Locktight is one way of securing a connection, and that is good against particular vibratory loads, but we also have to look at the self locking ability of thread forms. I have been through the locktite plant as a honored guest and understand their design goals. If in doubt, follow the book. I just happen to buy my anti-seize by the case... and given the choice, I would rather work on old dodge trucks and vintage BMW motorcycles. Howard
Why oiled? Your bolts are plating?