I have a D7 17A s/n 17A5563. I need to replace the clutch brake and I can not see anything in any manual I have that even mentions clutch brake. I replace it several years ago but have forgot how, I think it was a simple process. Then I will have to find one.
The brake cluch is attached to the brake drum and he is working with the master cluch lever
I know there is a linkage Under the breather, and it is in the clutch assembly. I do not think I should tear it apart unless I have the part required
I have a D7. SN 17A649. (actually, it is my uncle's D7 but no one in his family messes with it...they gave me permission to get it going and use it.) I probably have brake clutch issues, too. When we got it running 12 years ago it would only turn right (it would just barely turn left). Where did you get the manual? I need one (or more if they are broken into parts/service/operator manual.
My manual came with the machine years ago. If you watch eBay you can find what you are looking for. I bought a service manual for another machine from Jen sales.com , it was fine. My clutch brake I am referring to is to stop the transmission from turning when you first put it in gear. I would expect your problem my be your steering clutch is stuck, or you need to adjust your left brake.
Good lead...I just checked the Jensales site and they seem to have the manuals I need...thanks.
You maybe just need to adjusted the stering cluch and brake
Some manufacturers call it a transmission brake
You don't need a manual for this job . Some of the mountings for the brake may be worn and need some rebuilding . It could need adjustment . If yours is an oil main clutch use a light oil as heavier oil (50 grade) takes more to work to brake the clutch . Try to make sure its not rubbing when the clutch is in-gauged .
Ok transmission brake, I will lookup that. I will check out the setting and the wear on mounts. Thanks for the infomation
The brake cluch is't in cluch housing he is near the drive shaft and cluch oil pump cover and he is attache to the lever 2h9322 and you need to removed the lever for pulling the pine from the brake band
It looks like I need 9f8992 brake shoe assembly. Hector, would you have one of these? I
Pull your deck plate up clutch brake is on u-joint on back of clutch housing. Remove adjusting rod on top and 3 bolts on bracket on bottom of arm brake should come out. If it has friction material on it may just need adjusting. A brake reliner should be able to reline the shoe. Here's an old tip when you let the tractor idle take the transmission out of gear and pull the clutch in that way the brake won't ride on the drum. Bad Bob
I am still have a used one but the brace linnen is near the rivet and these 17a use a 4 1/4 brake band with 4 rivets
Thanks guys, I will pull it apart, and see exactly what I will be needing. Good tip on engaging clutch when idling
Also helps save wear on the throw out bearing.
Yup just like you said, but of course mine has 2 studs and 1 bolt, got 1 stud out but the other is a pain in the butt, and it will not slide out far enough to get over stud,so I am trying to get the stud out with 2 nuts
Yes the brake band can't be removed if the lever 2h9322 is there with the bracket 9f7108
It’s good Togo back together, thanks for all the help
Yes make sure the linkage isnt worn the activating lever for the brake (on mine anyway) wears into the horizontal clutch lever Could just need a bit of weld to build it up easy as
I remembered this thread and now have the same problem with my 1956 D7 17a. I bought it in 2000 and it has done great work, digging out a small lake, grubbing stumps on the farm and levelling the chalk roads with the blade set at an angle. I was just finishing some work pushing a load of saplings into a heap ready to burn, which was easy first gear work, when I noticed a small amount of white smoke coming out of the gearbox filler, no unusual noise and I assumed this was a sign that the transmission brake needed adjusting so followed the instructions in the manual, but like LG 78 said I saw that the linkage was worn and needed welding. It still works as there is just contact but I have not had time to do that yet. I had one more short run to do, only a half hour job, so I set off. Initially I found that my clutch brake adjustment had worked and it was easy to engage gear. Then there was an unusual noise from the gearbox and for a second I thought that I had lost the drive but it came back. But the transmission first gear was now noisy, not broken cog noisy but perhaps bearing noisy, and there was an improvement in second gear and even better in third, which sounded normal However the clutch brake is not working at all now and I was wondering if the brake band had broken off and fallen into the gearbox. Is this even possible in theory. The white smoke may have been from the band disintegrating. The gear oil looks fine and no sign of debris and is up to the full mark and is nice and clean looking I drove her all the way back to the yard about a mile in third with no incident, reverse is also fine. Any ideas before I start taking things apart?
The clutch brake is outside the transmission . Is your dozer a wet or dry main clutch ? . I can understand smoke coming from a dry clutch breather . If there is smoke coming from the transmission it will be created by extreme heat . Best option is its the clutch break has dismounted and engaged causing the smoke and noise .
Thank you for that advice. Although I have owned it for 24 years I have no idea whether it is a dry or wet clutch, how can I tell? If your best option is the cause, what would need to be done to repair it.? When I inspected the dipstick, the oil was not hot and it was clear and fresh when I wiped it with my fingers, this fact together with the fact that it seemed to drive the mile back to the farm without a problem. The fact that the clutch brake worked initially after I adjusted it according to the manual and then suddenly stopped working at all seems to confirm your theory.
Mine has the clutch break return spring , close to that is a breather then there is a large filler plug . This is all under the air cleaner area . Someone should know what serial number the wet clutches started at . Lift all the floor panels and check if there is an oil leak from the front of the transmission , just in case it has a collapsed bearing . Once the floor panels are out of the road it should be easy enough to pull the clutch break apart .
This master cluch is wet cluch we can see the depp stick
Not quite sure what you mean here Hector Epirbalex I will remove the floor panels to see what has happened Where is the serial number and would this tell me if it has a dry or wet clutch?
The tube for checking oil is bolted in front cluch housing and the dry cluch has no drive shaft joint
So I just looked and found the dipstick which has is it red auto transmission fluid? up to the mark and the gearbox also is full. I was struggling to lift the footplates on may own and a friend is coming over tomorrow to help, but I did remove one on the left side and could see the ring with a torch. I was expecting to see bits and pieces of debris but. nothing visible so far The ring looks very shiny and I assume I should be looking at the dull back of the brake band which may indicate that it has broken away and been flung off which would account for the noise I heard at the time
There are three places where you can find the serial number . Best place is the brass tag on the left rear side of the block few inches below the rear head . Second tag is on the rear of the dozer left had side , if the dozer has a winch on it you won't be able to read it . Third place is on the small flat area of the block below the magneto .The 2 following pictures are on a D4 , pretty much like the D7 position . Number is between the two sticks . I looked for a dip stick on mine last night and could not find one , it is either well hidden or the clutch relies on a plug to show level .
The auto transmission oil is no good for the cluch and all 17a have a wet master cluch and the master cluch housing should not be over full
I only said that it looked a bit like auto trans fluid, so is it special oil?
Unfortunately, the block cracked with a severe cold spell in 2017 and I had a "New" secondhand engine fitted. She also has a winch so cannot see the number there. But definitely established wet clutch, also hydraulic blade with three positions, straight, angle left and angle right so does that narrow down the numbers, I was told it was 1956 manufacture
The red oil is ATF transmission auto or oc46 hydrolic oil
I have removed the foot plates and the brake band looks intact but the little lever on the pivot looks worn as in photos. Is this a fine piece of engineering tolerances or can I just gob a bit of weld on the end a file it Looks as though it has been messed with before
You guys are great! These posts help a lot. I have a D7 17a. My neighbor and I are working on getting it going. Now that we have the engine purring with no issues, we are trying to get it moving. So far, the clutch brake isn't stopping to the shaft so we can't put it in gear. My return lever looks like Billhook's. It seems to sit a little low. Was there a washer/spacer under your return lever?
The brake cluch have a adjustement and you need loose the jam nut on the long rod on the cluch inspection cover and turne just a little bit clock wise the big nut and start the motor and try to angaged