All pins, sockets, bearings have been replaced. Keeps breaking with little effort. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue?
Is this a power tilt angle blade , with a single pin through the c frame ?
Yes. Power tilt with single center pivot pin on c frame
Doesw the pin break from the top cap or does the pin snap in two? Have worked on this problem before. Simon C
How is the blade set , is the toe or cutting edge well forward . Picture is an overexaggerated side view of two blades , second one the toe is well forward, hard on pins . If this is the problem extend the top link till the set is more like the first one . Has the pin been repaired or are you replacing with new pins ?
Seems to break in 2 flush at c frame
The toe is like your first pic, the adjustment is on bottom link arm and top is the cylinders. Replacing new every time and have broke 8 so far, finning keeps giving warranty and saying they got a bad batch.
Got any photos of the broken pins.? Good close-up photos of the fracture surface would be excellent.
Those horse-cock pins are quite hard. Whoever made them for cat probably messed up on the heat treating and it made them brittle
The toe is like your first pic, the adjustment is on bottom link arm and top is cylinders. Replacing new every time and have broke 8 so far, finning keeps giving warranty and saying they got a bad batch.
Your not buying the classic parts version are you? Those might as well be China made now days
No not yellowmark parts all cat
Part Number.?
That P/N is a full-fat replacement for the former 6Y-7474 Pin As. In July 2014 the 6Y-7474 was first "improved" to 451-1256 and changed to metric hardware. 456-1256 was replaced by 454-2573 in June 2018.
Is it standard to have 2 tilt rams ? If they are bad pins well thats that then . You have been patient with your supplier .
Origin of the pin shown as the US, so the conspiracy theorists won’t be able to blame the Chinese lack of quality for this failure.
I'm not a failure analysis expert, or a metallurgy genius, but I've seen a lot of broken pins. A picture is never as good as seeing something in real life, but that surface of the break looks really coarse, like the casting was bad, and that would go with what the OP is being told. Seems like his dealer should be raising hell with Mother Cat and getting some replacements before something else gets wrecked. I wonder what caused the original pin to fail.
That pin assembly will be forged, not cast. Otherwise I'm in agreement with you, the grain structure at the fracture face looks very coarse.
At least if it was Chinese there would be a multi choice of failure , too brittle , too soft and the wrong size all from the same batch .
I thought we were talking about the pin that holds the blade on but it appears we are talking about the big pin that goes through the C frame. How is the fit in the C frame bushing?
To the OP. You say you have replaced 8 pins so far. I'm assuming that each failure of a new pin is at very low hours. Approximately how many hours does a pin last.? How many hours had the machine worked when the FIRST pin failed.? Do you still have that pin so you can take photos of the break.?
Bushings are new
Pin lasts no more than 4 hours but can’t figure out what motion is breaking it but it’s never anything excessive. First time it broke side arm fell off while lifting a rock out. The original pin is long gone
Is there any possibility something is out of whack as a result of that failure.? A-blades aren't good for prying rocks out, too may pivot points in the linkage. Unfortunate but that's the way it happens most of the time. Nobody thinks to preserve the evidence from the first failure. Do you have any idea how many hours were on the first pin when it failed.?
first pin lasted 3500hrs. It has to be alignment or somthing. There was a lot of work done to it and then this issue appeared. I noticed yesterday that the cutting edge seems to be forward a lot compared to d8 blade
Based on those numbers I would agree, it's just a question of finding out where. Maybe some photos might help, although misalignment is often hard to spot from photos. Also if you put the blade in a level position (side to side) using the tilt, are the two tilt cylinders extended an equal amount.?
So did the issue appear right after doing the work (please list all the work that was done) or right after digging out the errant tree stump.? Right now I'm a bit confused regarding the time line.
It comes down to the geometry of the angle blade setup. You have a centre pin trying to hold the blade upright, and to tilt you are twisting the blade, which is hard on the centre pin. With the old turnbuckles, you could only shorten one side by a turn or two before it started binding up and had to walk around and lengthen the other side by about the same. If your dual acting cylinders are a fabricated add on chances are they are just connected in parallel with two tees and hoses hooked up the opposite way make one cylinder extend and one retract. But due whatever load is created on the corners of the blade the cylinders won't necessarily lengthen and shorten together, one can fully extend or retract while the other hardly moves. On a high hour set up, the centre pin is usually flogged out enough to cope with this, but on a rebuilt setup like you have, all that twisting is transferred to the centre pin and its obviously very hard and brittle. If you have the factory tilt cylinders, they were originally coupled in series (the extending cylinder drives the retracting cylinder) to try and keep the movement the same on each cylinder. There was a check valve in the head of the cylinder to allow oil to bypass at full stroke to keep the line between the two head ends charged with oil. Hope I made some sort of sense.
Makes perfect sense to me. Note the earlier comments from others asking "is that hydraulic tilt an add-on.?"