Seal in TORQUE DIVIDER leaking on d7f dozer is this a job for a pro mechanic
How good are you with wrenches and can you post a good photo of the leak..?
Nige I'm not a mechanic my boy and I put a water pump on this d7 I was quoted 3,000. by a shop today said it would be down 2 days the leak is at the hole on the right of the shaft
I was told the seal no. 13 was the problem
Seal No' 13 would "not" be your trouble as this item is not known to ever cause a leak to me?? unless the bolts have been undone (No'9) so I would check things some before speeding $3 Large, that amount here gets the torque rebuilt not an O ring. tctractors
Where is the oil actually leaking from externally..? Coming out from the seal #4 I would imagine. If that's the case it could be something as simple as just needing a new seal which is a job you could probably do yourself, to wear in the bearing/race #5 taking out the seal which would require more drastic surgery to fix.
Here's a section of your torque divider. The seal #4 runs on the output yoke. The O-Ring #13 is what seals the unit inside the housing. As TC says, for the seal #13 to have failed the most likely cause is the ring of bolts holding the torque into the casing should be loose. Can you do a really good cleaning job and then start the machine and see where the oil is coming from. If it is coming from Point "A" the O-Ring #13 is the cause, if it is coming from Point B then it's coming out of the Seal #4 and we're back to my comment above regarding whether it's a simple seal failure (can be replaced without pulling the Torque Divider) or whether the bearing right behind the seal has failed and taken the seal with it. You could check this by trying to see if the output yoke can be moved up and down at all. if it can be moved the likelihood is that the bearing is on its way out.
Heres a better picture pointing at where the fluid is coming out of. Is there supposed to be bolts in it?.
It is very common for the hub mounting seals to harden and leak. You need to pull the torque and change the mounting seal as well as the lip seal. So long as the trans is not running hot you should be fine. Later Bob
Those holes are forcing bolt holes to get the hub out of the housing. Later Bob
There are 8 bolts holding the converter into the housing. The bolts and washers are marked #9 & #10 on your parts drawing. They are also on the diagram I posted, one is right underneath the red line going from the letter "A" to the housing. Apart from the 8 bolts there are 2 threaded holes 180-degrees apart from one another on the same circle. As Bob says they are for forcing bolts to push the hub out of the housing when disassembling. There should not be bolts in those 2 holes.
So in your opinion what should I do to stop the licking meaning to fix it? And do you have any idea why would it lick is it a seal gasket or O-ring in there?
This is what you need to do. Later Bob
If the oil is definitely coming out of the 2 threaded holes in the case the most likely cause is that the O-Ring #13 is the culprit, as you mentioned above you were told by the shop who quoted you "3 large" to fix it. To replace the O-Ring #13 means the complete unit has to be removed from the machine, then the torque converter has to be separated from the housing, in order to replace the O-Ring. With the level of disassembly required to replace the O-Ring #13 it would be false economy IMHO not to replace the lip seal #4 and bearing #5 while they are in there. The 2 items are a total of $35 in parts. Plus if it was me I would want the shop to pull the converter apart and to replace all the rotating seals inside it and possibly the bearings as well. Is the shop quoting you simply to "remove & install the converter" to replace the failed O-Ring or does their price include other parts as well...? I just looked at your converter and to replace every bearing, seal, and snap ring inside it comes to less than $300 in parts. That list of parts is literally a full converter overhaul, it could probably be done cheaper if some of the parts were good to go again. Cheap insurance if you ask me, and the labour to tear down and rebuild the converter once it's out of the housing would be peanuts compared to the labour to remove & reinstall it from the machine.
Nige you were pretty close on parts and labor by us pulling the torque divider and replacing it was under $500. pulled the pan tonight going to clean and pull the torque divider and take it to cat Thanks Nige and the rest of the guys for their comments will keep you informed
I would recommend that you also clean the screen, change filter, and clean out all the lines during the time while you have the torque out, just to avoid nasty surprises like another poster with a D7 found after an intervention in the rear end.
We are getting ready to put it all back together, we just got it back yesterday we got the torque divider back on where it was but now the problem is the shaft, it wont turn like before when we took it out.
When you initially removed the torque divider did you remove the sun gear from the flywheel or leave it installed..?
i left it on i didn't want to get farther in other than torque divider.
Did the torque divider slide into place easily enough..? In other words you didn't have to pull hard on the bolts around the flywheel housing to get it snug up to the flange..?
Not really it wasnt hard at all the hardest thing was trying to line up the gears but once they did the whole torque divider went in place without having to put much presuare on it but like i said as easy as it went back on the shaft wont turn like it did before we first took it out.
we took the sungear out replace the pilot bearing and we put it all back on the fly wheel. when we went ahead and put the torque divider back on all the gears lined up and it went in with the only problem that once the planetary gear hooks with the sungear the shaft wont spin the way it was when we first took it off. why would that be?
Zarker, if you can move it at all with a pipe wrench or less on the flange you will be okay. Later Bob
Thanks for the reply but why would it take a pipe wrench to move it?
Nige just wanted to let you know were up and running again come to find out the torque had not been put back together wright the tech. came out looked at it shook his head took it all apart in about 30 minutes it was working the way it did when we took it out there is a difference in the power. Thanks for your help. PS NO leaks!!!!!
Good to hear it got fixed on someone else's dime rather than yours .........