Hi I am here for help and your valuable suggestions. My d7g dozer both steerings not working properly after hour and two with normal rpm I u want to turn u have to accelerate fully then I will.i have tested the pressures on steering clutch readings are attached .these reading on full rpm.note torque and transmission newly build Attachments
The steering clutches alone will not make the tractor turn - at least not a sharp turn anyway. It requires a combination of releasing the steering clutch and applying the brake, and I note that you don't mention having tested the brakes. Supplying a Serial Number might be an idea to look up pressure test specifications.
Do you have brake pedal or does it go to the floor
Thnx for reply picture is attached but really I don't understand first two number but machine is power shift
When you attempt to turn do you pull the hand clutch lever AND apply the corresponding foot brake? As Nige said.
No just pulling the lever
92V3431. Transmission/brake/clutch pressures for that S/N.
Thnx RC for this information
Try doing both at the same time and report back. I'm thinking that modal Cat required using both. I may be wrong about that though
Nope Mcrafty. Clutch and brakes on the one lever. Foot brakes really only there to act as brakes to stop/slow down. No need to use the foot brakes for anything to do with turning. Be interesting to see if pressures are down right across the board. I wonder what the magnetic screen, filter and pump inlet screen are like. First point of call is to check the pump is getting oil. Another thing to check is the pump is not sucking air somewhere. With a recently rebuild transmission/converter, maybe as the oil gets hot air is getting sucked in on the inlet side somewhere.
All pipe seals in converter and transmission are changed pump is working good suction lines look like ok.what about steering clutch seals ?
By your gauge test your pressure is low and may not be fully releasing. One thing I like to try to pinpoint whether it’s a clutch or brake problem is to pull both steering controls halfway out at the same time to see if the machine stops moving . If you have to go all the way to brake application to stop it then the clutches are dragging. You should check all the pressures first such as supply pump pressure and brake pressure.
I would add that the steering clutch control linkages need to be correctly adjusted for this to work as described. See the attached. I would suggest that you start looking in the linkage for wear in pivot points, correct as required, then move on to checking the adjustment. Once you know that the controls are working as designed you can move on to testing the hydraulic side of the steering clutches and brakes.
OK, I wasn't sure about that. Thanks
Checked them before all working fine. tomorrow I'll check once again
Pulled both steering levers at Same time but machine didn't stop
sounds like the bevel gear bearings are going out and wallered out the seals on the clutches
What Dave said we always used to loosen up elbows from booster to tubes going down to cages on cross shaft and put brass shim stock inbetween to see if pressure would go up if it does you have cross shaft problems
One thing I forgotten to shear previously same fault was occurred that time we simply clean magnet filter and problem solved unfortunately now it didn't work
If seales on clutches worn so how they hold pressure for two hours ?please don't mind I am asking for my knowledge
Would the oil be getting aerated somehow? would that even cause a problem if it were the case? I'm just grasping at straws here.
Oil gets thinner metal expands
Linkages for brake and steering are adjusted today let's see what happens Tomorrow
Checked point c and d pressures and added two spacers in both
C is torque inlet pressure 135 is max torque should see. You only see the 135 on a cold start and only for a few seconds over 135 could damage the torque adding shims to get to 135 isn't a good idea
Inlet relief valve (c) must be open on135 psi but in cold start its not reaching 100 psi that's why I added shims. may be isn't a good idea
if you check chart it says adjustment should only be made on test bench when i was building torques i took a lot of nickles out of valves that were put in there trying to get pressure up
I didn't understand test bench .?
There is no change at all in machine condition any suggestions plz
Hello friends I am here to thank u all for Ur valuable suggestions my problem is solved by replacing steering seals and bushing cages ones again thanks a lot @Nige .@pittsburg cat man.@ crafty1.@ dave neubert and all
That is testing the valve off the machine in the workshop on the bench via some sort of workshop hydraulic pump device. Glad you got it sorted.
Thanks for posting the fix, it helps other that may have similar problems find a solution.
Hope you changed bevel gear bearings wile in there
Ye one side bevel gear bearing was changed
Hi. Sorry to tack onto this post. I have a 1968 D7E. I’ve only just got it. Wondering if I pull both clutch leavers, should the machine stop? My clutch linkages are not connected to the brakes. If I pull both leavers and apply both brakes, the machine is still fighting to go forward. Brakes are adjusted correctly and are working
Under the fuel tank there is two cast lines coming from steering valve that go into clutch compartment. There are two 1/8 pipe plugs on top of them. You need to put a hose with a gage on it long enough to reach operators seat and see what pressure is when you pull the clutch. you had me a little confused the only d7 e i could think of is diesel electric I'm guessing yours is something like a 94n serial number
Serial 48a. I’m assuming the machine should be stopping with just the clutches pulled out? Once they are applied, there should be nothing driving it? Some are saying yes and some saying no
You pull both clutches and apply brakes it should stop driving! That's why I wanted you to check clutch release pressures. I've pulled both clutches many times while testing it does not move and makes a pretty good howling noise while the transmission is spinning the loose discs.
Ok thanks. I’ll check that. Thanks