D7G 92V prefix. I had the torque out of this thing a few months back to replace the rear main seal that was letting engine oil transfer. Ever since then it has been blowing out the seal at the output yoke. I've replaced the seal 3 times and also replaced the yoke. I'm assuming I boogered something up when I had the torque out but not sure what. I didn't dismantle the converter at all. Just pulled it off, cleaned it up, and put it back on. Any ideas?
Did you by chance take any TC pressures while you were working on it..?
converter drain pump failed or worn out? is the the same tractor you r&r'd the final a while back?
No, I haven't checked any pressures on it.
Might have a broken cast iron sealing ring near the back of the torque. Need parts pic to tell. Later Bob
Ya, I went through one of the finals about a year ago.
When it goes out its a severe leak. It's actually blowing the the lip of the seal out of the tin case of the seal.
So it's not blowing the complete seal assembly out of the housing..? Genuine Cat seals or "will fit"..? Just to rule out a possible material issue.
The cast iron rings hold the charge inside the converter. If the rear one breaks a lot of force will be on the back seal. Later Bob
Bob, Are you talking about the 2 metal sealing rings #4 in the diagram below...?
They might be the ones Nige, could you show me a pic of the shaft Please? Later Bob
This is the best I can do for the shaft .......
What leaks past those rings is open to the housing. The diagrams are for D6C but the G is the same.
What is #6 in the last pic you posted Nige? Was looking for a shaft ring but can't see it on OM's pic's. Failing that it might be a plug left in a cooler line forcing the pressure up to inlet relief setting. Later Bob
#6 is a split metal ring. Looks to be retaining ring for bearing race #5
OM, It is a split metal ring, but it doesn't retain the bearing, in fact it's a split ring rotating shaft seal. Bob, Here's an illustration of a TC from a D6R that uses the exact same 9M-2008 split steel ring seal that is used in the OP's 92V-prefix D7G.
OK, I see it in my D6R parts manual. Called out as a ring-metal seal. Looks like that could be the culprit if damaged.
Genuine Cat parts. I do believe I put a Cat Classic yoke in it though.
Might as well overhaul the converter If you need more convincing do the pressure test and a stall spilltest and see how much oil its making.
If the seal is blown don't bother with any pressure test just move on to the next point, strip out the converter as its going to have problems, often the shaft can move out of the converter towards the tran's due to thrust wear eating into the S/Pump drive gear face, this puts 1 of the steel seals outside the location, anyhow its going to need a full strip out. tctractors p.s. remove the S/Pump before the cover is pulled.
Hi tc, got a question. I can see what you say about thrust getting one of the two outer seal rings out of position and then leaking but that leakage would go to the housing, not pressurize the outer lip seal at the yoke. Now the one sealing the shaft to the inner carrier assembly would be a direct pressure feed to the lip seal if it failed. Am I missing something?
Not really O.M. as a for instance if the spider joints are removed and the engine started, the converter output shaft will blow out of the converter via oil pressure and rotation, if the torque is lugged down to low over a long period the result is all the converter thrust starts to eat into the drive gear face, the converter will be in need of a strip down and the carrier bushings in the divider hub checking for being fitted in the correct direction, the thought of just replacing the steel ring seals is no use, the oil escape from the rings can be very impressive, it usually only floods the case on D6C/D/H/R tractors but on D7 D8 tractors it can be a bit more dramatic. tctractors
Found the culprit. I must've broke it when I put the torque in last time.
That will do it every time. Image did not post but here is the one I got from the link:
Getting the rings in is not a hard task, did you strip and check all the components? tctractors
Yes, as you are this close it would be well worth a couple hours time to totally strip that converter down to the small bits and inspect things very close. If everything is nice and tidy all it will cost is the labor. Not sure if it is common with the tractors, but on the FEL's we had, the stator, item #12 in the picture posted in message #10 would often be coming loose where the vanes were crimped to the ends. Don't recall one ever coming right to bits but it sure would not be a pretty sight if it did!
Ya. I pulled the whole assembly out and totally dismantled it. Everything is in very good shape. The owner seems to think it has been overhauled at some point but he couldn't remember the hours. At any rate, now we know it's in good shape and I'm putting all new orings and gaskets on all that I took apart so hopefully that will eliminate some leaks that were sure to come.
good job. what town are you nearby?
I'm north of Kansas City about an hour. Between St Joe and Savannah MO. This job is east of me about 20 miles.
Ok, for some reason I thought that tractor was around mound city.. my mistake.
I work on one in Mound City thats identical to this one too.
Oh! well that must be what I was thinking about.. my memory is kind of.. poor.