Hello wondering what peoples thoughts were on putting $$$ into a 1972 d8h [new bottom - idlers , segments, chains and pads] along with radiator and right side pinion seal the machine isn't to bad steers both ways stops goes forward and reverse all speeds etc. I bought it to clear some land for a customer ended up picking up a lot more work. I need to decide if I should put the coin into it or buy something else. I'm actually looking into a 1979 d9h. Not sure what direction to go in? Its almost the same money to fix or to buy something else.
The best deciding factor would be if the compression is getting into the cooling system. Stoke her up good and let the rad pressure off, tighten the cap and then see if it continues to build. If the rad pressure stays down then do some SOS/oil samples and if all the oils are good you have a WINNER. If you are not looking at a big engine or trans job go for it. Final drives and undercarrage are right up with fuel as major costs of operation. Later Bob
I would do as Bob said above, and if it checks out, fix the one you have. When you buy an old machine, you may be trading one problem for another. If you fix what you have, then you know what you have. A D-8H is a good machine, and 1972 is pretty late. They had nearly all the bugs of the older ones worked out by then. I put around 10,000 hrs in the seat of a 30,000 serial number 46A, and I liked it better than the D-8K's and D-9H's. It was far more reliable than either of those, in my opinion. Keep the finals from needing major work and you can get a lot out of them.
What they said!!! Plus, a D9H's D353 will never sound as good as the ol' D342 D8H under load!
I'd cut the final & trans filters apart first to get an idea of componet health, check the magnetic filter. Just guessing you're looking @ $35K + which is OK if the rest of the machine is sound but to much if you continue to have other problems, the filter media will give you a look. Sometimes you can luck out by finding a good used UC off a scraped machine. Like Bob/ Ont mentioned SOS is good but do you know how many hours on the oils? Good old horse like Jerry said if it's healthy fix it and go make your money back. Luck to you.
Thanks for the input. What and how's the best way to cut and check filters? I did have some kind of plastic chunks in the magnetic strainer, not quite sure what that's about. The reason I believe the pinion seal is bad is because the right final is over filling with oil the, filler plug blows right off when I un screw it. That took about 30 hrs to happen. I think that might be where the plastic came from but I doubt it, not sure. The other weird thing is the trans oil level is still between add and full when cold. I'm going to sample oil at end of week to find out a better idea of what I have.
The final drive filters are in the case well above the filler plug, either 2 or 4 3/8 bolts on a small plate, remove and pry out the plate & filter, put the plate in a vise and unscrew the other end, take off filter and cut a section out( 15-20 pleats) with a pocket knife, spread the pleats out and inspect. Trans filters should be 2 stacked in a canister on the RH side of the engine( I think on your model) with a plate on top. If the filters have a peforated metal jacket they are a pain to open, newer filters have fiber bands around the pleats and are easy. You'll need filters and O-rings but they probably need changing anyway. Not much plastic in D8 innards, if it's black it could be part of the pinion seal Oring that loads the dou cone. There are some white teflon square rings in the steering clutch release rams but if you found that you wouldn't be steering it. The drain plugs will have magnets ( except engine) so if you decide to change oils you will see them. Some fuzz is normal wear. Hope this helps
ok thanks I replaced all filters somewhere around 60 hrs ago. I do recall the trans filters being pretty black along with the final ones. The pieces of plastic in strainer were black and real hard. I will definitely remove and inspect filters as you mentioned. The trans filters are perforated metal. Thanks again for advice there aren't to many people around here to ask advice from most are old and cant remember or they just ran them so much they hate to talk about them.
Did'nt realize you had changed filters, would have been best to cut them open.
It's going to be serviced again soon i'll definitely do it then.
d8's going bye bye going for a 9 i'm over 35g's just in parts and that's just what I can see not to good. It doesn't owe me anything and a 9 is a lot more productive especially for what i'm doing
Good luck with the 9, normally you are going to put money into an older machine, if a 9 suits your needs better I think you did the right thing. At least if you have to fix it it will be putting money in what you need. Post some pics sometime.
The biggest item I'm wondering about is if the states will let you run then next year. Why put a lot of money in a machine that is going to be legally made obsolete?
Auction it off on Ironplanet ,then have it sold to South America where still get to breath same air.Got love the goverment !!!
I found a nice G 65% remaining bottom new segments and rebuilt motor by cat with 710 hrs on it hopefully I can grab it