9tc prefix The complaint last week was "fixed stopped moving". I was into something that the owner deemed more important so he asked what he should look for when he went up to it. I told him to pull the floor out of the cab and make sure the drive shafts were intact and also the trans and steering linkages. He came back down a couple of hours later with the accessory shaft in his hand.
The shaft had most of the rubber coupler (second picture). So I assumed that the old style rubber couplers had failed. The only question I had was how did he reach down from the top and pull it off the belly pan? Honestly, whenever I drop something down there I just make a note on the floorboard reminding me to look for it the next time I drop the belly pan, "9/16 deep socket, 7/16 bolt, monster magnet, flashlight etc." With a date. Checked my service manual and it just said drop the belly pan and remove the bolts. So this morning I went up there and dropped the belly pan and found the stub shaft (left side 3rd pic) the pieces of the updated mostly metal coupler (first picture) and the broken bolts that used to hold that coupler to the accessory pump. Also, on closer inspection, the flange on one side of the shaft (kind of looks like a fidget spinner). All three arms are a bit twisted. Kind of changes things. Like I said, I had assumed that the old style rubber couplers had just failed and the drive shaft fell out. But now I have a grenaded updated coupler AND have to get broken bolts out of the accessory pump flange. My first question is causality. Has something seized in the accessory pump making the coupler on that side of the shaft blow up? And I guess, why did the coupler blow apart AND shear bolts? The next question is accessibility. Book says drop pan, remove bolts. Doesn't really seem feasible. Looks like I would have to remove at least two large hoses before I could even get my chubby personage any where near the "remove bolts" step in the instructions. And the first one of those hoses would mean having to drain the torque converter. And even then, "remove bolts" seems only just do able. "Remove broken bolts" does not. It kind of looks like a likelier path would be to remove the hydraulic valve body and do it all through the top. Let me know what you all think. I kind of hate to even add this here, because I cannot think of any scenario where this is "operator error". But the particular operator that was running the machine when it broke, is the operator in every situation in the last five years that has broken something that I thought couldn't be broken. " How in the neck did that happen?"
Don't know what it is nor what it does. But it looks like nothing that belongs on a D8 of any sort. Looks barley adequate for a D3.
That's funny. It is the accessory pump drive shaft. So, as far as I know, it is responsible for steering and brakes. To be perfectly honest... I do not ever remember seeing it before. It is hidden below the implement valve body from the top and way to high up for me to look for from the bottom.
I was wrong, the shaft runs the transmission oil pump. And it seems like that bugger is seized up. Explains the coupler grenading.
Will need to check the filter for whats in it now. Wonder what pump put in system? Simon C
Yep, figure I have to check the screen on the torque converter also.