We are having a few issues with our 160CLC. The first is it won't turn off after starting. We put a new fuel shut off solenoid on it thinking it was probably the problem it didn't fix it. Just wondering if there are any known problems with this. I'm leaning towards keyswitch but if not is there a relay or something similar that would cause this issue? I'm not sure if it is related or not but the oil pressure light and buzzer are on. It does have oil pressure. Maybe it is just a coincidence.... The second issue is it had a hydraulic pump go south. Metal everywhere. We found the spool valves full of metal so bad they wouldn't move. After cleaning everything out we started the machine and got the controls working. We have everything moving except the right track motor. I'm hoping it is the swivel. What concerns me is it seems like the motor spins freely like the brake is released. I suppose it is possible the main shaft broke when they moved it but I'm not ready to pull it apart. I think we are going to swap upper hoses on the swivel and see if it changes our issue so we can find out if it is up top or on the bottom. Anyone had any luck with a machine that the pump has come apart on? I have searched the forums and it seems to be hit or miss.
As far as the solenoid goes.. just unplug it at the electrical connection at the pump to see if it shuts off.. IF it stays running, you have either sol. problems or mechanical problems inside the pump.. The sol. is spring loaded to shut off w/ no electricity. There is a service bull. that says on some models, u have to grind the top cover to make clearance for the "new type" solenoid.. The instructions come in the package w/ a new OEM solenoid {Stanadyne}.. but hardly anyone buys one because of the price.. double an aftermarket..
If the machine is a 160LC then Pumpguy is correct. Follow that train of thought. If the machine is a 160CLC, then the issue is not the pump. That engine has an ECU and a Stanadyne DE10 electronic pump. The ECU is still being powered when keying off. Figure out why and you will find your problem.
Yeah, that's what threw me.. he said, THEY replaced the fuel sol. If it was a DE pump, that wasn't happening... it just doesn't screw-in..
I have seen the s[lines give out on the track motor if it is freewheeling I would suspect that is what happened
If the machine had been towed to move it, procedure dictates to remove the sun gear from the planetary final drive. Maybe someone did not put it back in??
item 3
item22
Yes, item 22.
You can sometimes get away with just changing item 22 but I have had to change item 3 on the first picture if you have to do that the whole unit has to come off the track frame and you have to disassemble the drive motor
It is the electronic pump. We replaced the part that is held on by 2 bolts on the back of the pump. It turns off when we unplug the pump. So I'm leaning towards a stuck relay or malfunctioning key switch. As for the finals. It doesn't appear that they have been apart so I'm hoping something is broken inside the final and it's not the motor. I'm going to try to swap his onto of the swivel and see if the problem changes.
If it freewheels there is nothing hydraulic that could cause that.. it’s most likely the splined coupling between the motor driveshaft and the final sun gear...as for not shutting off, there has been instances where an alternator failing will not let it shut off..does your alternator have three wires?
Just a quick update. It looks like the alternator was back feeding and causing our problem. I have a new one we will get on in the next day or so. I didn't think a machine this new would have that issue. We have had that issue on our older 892elc. As for the track free spin. There are no broken parts in the final. What seems to be happening is the right track spool valve is letting oil into the swivel and it is just enough pressure to cause the brake to release. I think the swivel may have bad seals in it also. I pulled the hoses off the track motor and there is some fluid coming out of the main hoses. Flow from the hoses is low when trying to travel. We hooked everything back up and took the main lines off the upper section of the swivel and started the machine and it was like the circuit was partially engaged. Oil immediately started coming out of one of the drive hoses. I feel like we are going to be chasing metal in the hydraulic system for some time.
Just an update. The alternator did not fix our issue. Had a key switch on the shelf and gave it a try. No luck there either. We have a problem somewhere. I have an oil light on that I don't think is related. Pressure is good. I'm thinking a bad sensor on that one. I don't have a wiring diagram or manual so I'm just guessing at this point. The track issue has gotten better. We are still pulling metal out of the control valve. Every time we tear it down it gets better. We have it so when you bring the stick up on the relief valve the track motor will spin. I'm thinking more metal has found its way into the control valve or we have a relief valve stuck. Anyone have any good advice. I knew this was going to be a project but I was hoping not a nightmare.
See attached.
I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams yet but I'm sure a blown diode has something to do with your problem.
I've looked over the start circuit and see that there are three diodes in the system that could be causing your problem. Item V4 shows a starter relay diode and item V2 load dump relay. There is also a diode in the starter protection relay. I haven't seen the type of system before but there is also a relay for the alternator that apparently feeds back to the monitor panel. That would indicate to me a reason for the oil pressure light to be on. The schematic doesn't indicate where all these components are but I would start by identifying them on the machine and then testing each item. I believe the issue is somewhere there.