Looks like the belts are the originals installed by Deere. I've got the Hyd pump drive cushion and belt set on the way. A new alternator is on hand too. I've sprayed the spline joint and bolts with penetrating oil. I fear the spline joint hasn't been moved since it was new, 25 years ago. :Banghead Any tips and advice are appreciated before I tackle this.
Shouldn't be a problem, except maybe the bolt in the center of the coupling. Remove the four bolts from the drive shaft to coupling, the spline should slip easily. Worst case you will have to unhook the lines from the pump, unbolt it and move the pump to gain clearance to disassemble the coupling. :my2c
The spline joint is easy. There's a slot cut in both (?) sides that you can use to pry it open a little with a couple chisels, but with that much give you won't need to pry. If you pull the coupling off the crankshaft, check the front crankshaft oil seal, I know it's only 25 years old, but it's easy to do when you have access.
Thanks for the tip. I didn't see any slots, but I wasn't looking for them. Would you describe where on the joint shaft they are?
OOPS! Sorry, I was thinking of the 410 etc. The 310 doesn't clamp onto the hydraulic pump shaft (different pump design). Most likely it won't be tight, but if it hangs up use some penetrating oil and tap it back into place and work it back and forth until it comes off easy. I THINK this model DOES have a crankshaft, so the seal advice still stands
Got the belts changed out. Taking off the cast front frame around the radiator was the trick. That allowed loosening the radiator mounting for some working space. The spline joint wouldn't move. But, was able to separate the coupling 1/2 inch. After removing the cushion, had enough space to thread the belts between the coupling halves. Worked the new cushion into place and everything went back together. Thanks for the tips and encouragement. Next project: replace dead block heater with stuck nut. Turning the nut spins the heater element. Likely have to cut the nut off. Unless someone has a better idea.
If you didn't know, you have to remove the big adapter plug, heater comes out from the inside? Yeah, cut the nut they're not gold, lol.
Lantraxco ... I can turn the big nut (#4) out. Turning #3 spins #7. Trying to hold #7 by the flats distorts the threads. But I'm concerned turning # 4 without removing (#3) the element will break off inside the block or break something internal as it spins. The element is "L" shaped and about 3 1/2 inches long.
Hold #3 with a wrench, or visegrips on the flats of #7 while you spin #4 out. As I recall the replacement element comes with instructions as to the proper clocking upon installation. Even if you twist the element off, I don't think it can go anywhere or hurt anything, but like you I would prefer not to take the chance.
The dead block heater is no more ! Long live the new block heater ! The frozen nut (3) gave up quickly to a side grinder with a cutting disk. Once the nut was cut at the flats of the heat element, it spun off easily. Pushing the element into the block gave enough clearance to back the mount fitting out (4) Here's a pic of the old element. Notice the twisted heat coil. (In the pic, the coil should be pointing toward the top of the page )I figure the cause was me trying to twist the mount out with the element held in place, instead of spinning in the mount fitting.