my 310c does not pull fwd motion all the time..sometimes it will.. i have rebuilt the reverser, the fwd cluth packs did not look bad at all, does anyone know if the 12v solenoid on the side of the reverser needs to be wired up for fwd operation? its never beed hooked up since ive had it. thanks for anyones help
That unit is almost identical to the Case shuttle of similar vintage and I have done dozens. How thorough was the repair? The fwd clutch pack must be shimmed by selecting the proper snap ring to set the plate seperation at disengagement and give proper piston travel. The pump could be marginal if it was not replaced upon rebuild. If the bellville washer broke and allowed fine fragments to circulate the shift spool bore can get damaged and require a new housing and spool. Did you check the operating pressure and compare fwd to rev. There is a fibre sealing ring on the fwd clutch feeder that can be easily cut if not installed with extreme care. In our business a shuttle rebuild involves the converter, pump, and repair kits as supplied by Case. Checking system pressure assures that the system relief contained inside the shift spool is keeping the system at the specified pressure. Check the pressures and if you find a wide variation between F/R you have a serious leak in the FWD circuit. The reverse side usually works even if the shuttle is in bad shape as pressure to that piston is though the housing without any rotating sealing areas and it has a much larger piston. The major differenc in JD/Case is the shift spool and internal parts swap right out, I have rebuilt your type shuttle right out of Case stock except for the TC unit. That we got from JD. The solenoid is in all likelyhood a clutch disconnect and not necessary for good drive power except it could limit system pressure if it is not free and holding a plunger partially disengaged but that should have been obvious at rebuild.
Thanks for the info, when I rebuilt it I bought the whole kit, with a new pump,I had the converter rebuilt also. I checked the gap book says .021 to .036, but with the largest ring supplied was over max , I just took it back out today and tried the two thinnest rings and its too tight . Which fiber seal are u talking about.? I saw 2 on the end of the shaft, planetary end they were broken. I don't understand how pressure builds in the fwd clutch end? I see 4 small holes in the shell that holds the clutches.. I'm not skilled at hyd clutches at all, but have mech knowledge, just trying to do this myself.. Thank u for your help
The stem that sticks back in the planetay drum is where the small brownish seal rings goes and the fwd pressure comes through that small stem front to pressurize the fwd clutch, That small fibre seals is where I anticipated you would find your problem. Replace those rings that were broken and use sticky grease under them to hold them in while assembling them, I always roll them up into a smaller diameter to try to keep them from having a tendency of popping out. I had that same experience early in my history with the Borg n Beck shuttle so don't feel bad. Years teach you the tricks, even to this day, I usually pick the planetary back out to double check myself. Good luck, You'll do OK. Just checked Case's online site and looked at the powershuttle, if you look at a 580 C breakdown I think you would agree it is much more clear than JD. I believe that Case allows a .011 minimum on that clutch pack, I will check today and reopen this response if it will allow me to.
Thanks so much for the helpful info, the fiber ring your talking about, is it one or two? There are 2 rings on the end of the shaft on the planetary end.. And if I have too much slack with the thickest spacer ring, should I use the two thinnest? Can it be too tight?
Two, they are the fwd clutch feed tube seals, roll the new ones up so they have a tendancy to stay small and then take thick grease in the groove then put rings on and squeeze them down so the grease makes them stay. Yes they can be to tight and the fwd clutch will drag making shifting difficult. How much to loose are you with the thickest snap ring in place? I did'nt get time to look up Case's spec but I thought it was a bit tighter than that but could be wrong so stay with your book spec. They are a tremendous shuttle and if you give it reasonable care should be troublefree for years to come.
What about too much slack in the clutch? Would that cause slipping? I found some seals and a thicker space ring and got them on the way now it's just a waiting game to get it back together and install
The numbers given in the manual are setup info and I'm sure that the clearance will increase with wear but most units that don't have bellville spring breakage exhibit very little wear over years of use. I try to get mine near the minimum but anywhere in the setup range is fine. With the TC, clutch slippage is nearly nonexistant. It would be a good idea to check system pressure after installation. A manual will give the checkpoints and the recommended pressure and it is not hard to do at all. If you intend to do that it would be a good idea to get the test ports loose while the shuttle is on the bench.