My 310G with 900 hours is draining the battery. I pulled the alternator and took it to a shop today - it's working fine. I told him the alternator was hot when the I pulled it (engine was cold), and he said if ACC line is giving it power when the machine is off it can do that. Is there a stuck alternator relay or short causing the issue? I've gotten the F4ed Service code since it was delivered on Monday. I believe it's a engine control unit monitor code - engine control unit does not match display monitor engine configuration ( sucurity violation) Yesterday after turning it off and it wouldn't start, the alternator low voltage light came on (and it's on now with a freshly charged battery and no alternator installed) Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
This is what my 310G manual says about this code: 002000.13 — Security Violation The ECU determines that it, OR another controller on the machine is not the right controller for the particular machine. Security Violation • When the ignition is first turned on, all of the controllers on the machine communicate with each other to make sure that all controllers are correct for the particular machine. DTC 002000.13 will set if: • The ECU determines that it, OR another controller on the machine is not the right controller for the particular machine. If DTC 002000.13 sets, the following will occur: • The ECU will allow the engine to start, but will only allow low idle engine speed. • For other applications, see APPLICATION SPECIFICATIONS in Section 06, Group 210 of this manual for the high oil pressure input voltage specification. If DTC 002000.13 sets: • If one of the controllers on the machine has just been replaced, make sure the correct controller was installed. • If all controllers on the machine are the correct part numbers, check to see if any of the controllers have active or stored CAN related DTCs. If they do, go to the appropriate diagnostic procedure. Below is a late SN test procedure for the alternator. Hope this helps you find your problem Alternator Test Procedures (S.N. 951254— ) 1. With engine running at slow idle, check DC voltage between terminal D+ and ground. Voltage should be 13.5 VDC or greater1. 2. With engine running at fast idle, check DC voltage between terminal B+ and ground. Voltage should be 13.5 VDC or greater1. 3. If voltage from previous steps is below 13.5 VDC1, check excitation by placing a jumper wire between terminals D+ and B+ with the engine running. If output at terminals B+ and D+ rise to 13.5 VDC or greater, check for an open diode, wiring problem or blown fuse in the alternator excitation circuit (wire to D+ terminal). 4. With engine running, check AC voltage between terminal W (if equipped) and ground. Voltage should be 6—7 VAC. 5. Repeat above steps with lights on to load the alternator. 6. If alternator fails to produce specified voltage after testing, check for worn out brushes in the regulator/brush assembly. Replace brush/regulator assembly if necessary. See Alternators and Starting Motors for specific test and repair procedures. (CTM77.) If alternator still fails, replace it. If alternator tests OK, check indicator light circuit
View attachment Charging system schematic.pdf here's the charging system schematic to consult. Good Luck
I figured out the alternator problem. Whoever worked on it last switched the 12v ignition wire and the ground wire. The battery was shorting out over the alternator. I'm lucky this didn't start an electrical fire. I called the Tractor Ranch where I bought it (they put on a new battery) and told them to check the other two next to mine which were also dead. I bought an electronic copy of the manual and got rid of the error code. The programming steps don't seem to follow what the manual says. I can't get into the menu to calibrate the digital tack. I'll try again later. For now I"m replacing my first hydraulic hose, getting a bucket shank replaced, and having the front tire looked at, which went flat after turning the wheel against a wall of dirt. In the process I've discovered the transmission is leaking from the rear drive shaft, oh joy! Thanks for the help guys.
Glad you found your problem and got it fixed. Sometimes those electrical problems can be a real pain to figure out. The manual was the smartest money I ever spent. Just finished overhauling both stabilizer cylinders and don't know how I would have done it without the manuals. They had been worked on before and after taking the bad parts to the JD service center, they said it looked like the seals on the piston had possibly been twisted when installed.