Hello, I am new here and excited to be involved. I have a problem with my Deere 310G backhoe. While running I had a loss of power and a F414 code on the dash. The engine died and I saw that the lift pump had failed and leaking pretty bad. After replacing the pump, priming the system it runs like a clock ,but I still have the F414 code. I cannot find any info online. What next?
Welcome to HEF Willys ! Serial number (important for accurate information)? F414 is sensor supply voltage high code. For sensor voltage to be high means there is an open wire/sensor or battery voltage shorted to the supply somewhere. Try clearing the code first. Press and hold the menu button until your in the service mode (about 5 seconds). Press next until codes is displayed. Press select. Press next until codes clear is displayed. Press select. Cycle key and see if the code comes back when you start it.
Thank you mg2361 , I will try that today. my serial is T0310GX931567
I followed your instructions and the code remains :/ I also checked the charging voltage , it shows 14V
Try clearing the codes again then key off. Next unplug all the engine sensors (coolant at thermo housing, intake temp in the intake tube, fuel temp on top of injection pump and throttle position sensor at foot pedal). Key on and see what codes you get. If you do not have the F414 try plugging them back in one at a time to see if one trips the F414 code. If it does then that is your culprit.
Thanks, will do. Also I was wondering if disconnecting/ reconnecting the battery would help?Sometimes works with automotive codes .
I did the above and got 414,475,465,455,420 codes . All codes cleared except the 414. I checked sensor resistance and found the intake air sensor was open. I think I found the problem ??!!?
Based on where you are located if it is 70° F the air intake temp sensor should have measured 3300-3800 Ω. Under a 1000 Ω with the engine warmed up (104° +). Plug a new one in and try it.
Yes, with ohm meter intake sensor was open circuit, waiting on a new one
Update , new sensor installed and code gone!!!! Thank you for the help, hopefully I can help someone next time .
Well I used the hoe today,.... 414 came back and cleared about six times in the am . Afternoon there was no codes. Does it take a few warm up cycles to clear , had a dodge that way ???!!!
Are the terminals in the connector for the sensor in good shape and not spread?
I will look at the plug . I was able to clear the code every time ,where before i installed the new sensor I was not able . The engine drops 200 rpm every time the code shows up also.
I checked the plug and still I will get the 414 code from time to time. The code shows up and goes away after some working time. I am lost
Intermittent issues are always the most difficult to solve. I see that your engine controller has a new software available for your machine. It might pay to have that upgraded. What is the part number on the side of your ECU? There have been manifold temperature and coolant temperature issues in the past caused by a faulty ECU, though I would still rule out wiring issues to the three temperature sensors first.
Thank You, I will get the part # on the ecu tomorrow.. The wiring looks good visually , it is a low hr machine with only 1800 hrs on it. I retested the intake sensor again to verify that it is in spec and it looks good .
I will also take the ground off and clean it with sand paper to guarantee a good (common ) ground .
the ECU # is RE 518176 Unsure how to update the software ? service call ?
That is an older ECU that has had some issues. I am not saying it is the problem, just something to keep in the back of the mind. A Deere dealer is the only one that can update the software, so yes a service call would be required for that.
Thank you again, I use the hoe mostly seasonal 100 hrs /year ( farm hoe) and I am about done with it for a while. It will be difficult to do a lot more diagnosis unless I get a dealer involved now. The code doesn't keep me from using it if I don't harm the machine. I know that the sensor was bad when this 414 started, and has mostly gone away, now just popping up randomly for short periods .
I used the machine again today, 414 popped up 1 time, engine rpm drops 200 rpm when the code shows up. If I scroll thru the menu on the dash 414 goes away and the 200 rpm comes back. It is haunted lol
Maybe the 414 just means "trade in soon)
Intermittent codes are frustrating at best. As stated before, on that machine they are usually wiring issues or ECU issues. It's a crap shoot at this point.
Frustrating 4 sure . I will re check the sensor to make sure it is fine and see what happens next. The hoe will be sitting for a couple months now. I will get her to the shop when I will be using her hard , so I can monitor the out come . Thanks
Hello again! I have made it a year with 414 popping up from time to time, haven't used the hoe much . Today I was going to run it and, no start. I have fuel to the injector pump but no fuel out of the pump. I also have a new code f490. I havent looked any further yet. I will look at it more on a upcoming rainy day and any tips are appreciated . Thanks
That is pump solenoid circuit severely shorted (SPN/FMI code 1076.06).
Might be a good idea to inspect and clean electrical/computer connections at ECM and Pump.
I will do that tomorrow am , thank you!
I unplugged ,cleaned re plugged (with battery disconnected). Engine started and runs great, the 490 code has gone away but the 414 is still there. Engine runs perfect . I will see in the next few days. Any chance the 414 will clear after some hrs?
Not likely. With the ECU disconnected check resistance between terminal E2 of the ECU harness connector to all the other terminals in the harness connector. You are looking for no continuity (less than 20,000 ohms by Deere's specs). Any continuity between E2 and another terminal (except B3 and D3), then there is a short between wires. B3 and D3 should give you some sort of ohm reading.
Ok , I will need to find a repair manual to find the correct terminals on the harness Thank You
I also unplugged some sensors looking for 1 that didnt give me a new code, coolant temp 455, fuel temp 475, intake air temp465. Oil psi looks like just a switch , and crank sensor is a no start and no new code. All the new codes were easily cleared by holding the select button down... 414 stayed. How many sensor are there total?
That's it plus the throttle position sensor which your current code is related to. The checks I gave you in post #31 are for the throttle position circuit. Try a throttle calibration. I PM'd you.
Hello, I tried a throttle calibration and got 2 new codes 428 and 423 .??
Thank you!
428 - throttle not calibrated properly. 423 - throttle calibration aborted. These tell me you either have a misadjusted throttle position sensor or a faulty sensor. In the calibration procedure the ECU ois looking for a specific voltage range. If it is not within that range it will not calibrate.
OK , sounds like I am getting close to a repair. I will check adjustment next . Once again ...THANK YOU
I am not sure that i can do the adjustment without the special test harness. I will play with adjustment and see
You don’t need the harness. It can be done by backprobing the wires.
Ok, I will try it asap
Just don't shove your meter probe in. They are too fat. If you don't have proper back probes use straight pins. The ones with t handle work the best. You use those to back probe then clip your meter leads to them. I tell technicians this tip all the time. I have seen so many damaged terminal from trying to jam a paper clip or meter probe in to a connector.
Sorry, I should have mentioned it. I usually do. Edgephoto is correct. Use Tee pins or get yourself a set of these backprobe spoons from Electronic Specialties. These are what I use.
I have a set of these and they are real handy for automotive troubleshooting too.
If you do not know what a t-pin is, this is a pic of what they look like. They are available at most craft stores cheep. I have seen them at advance auto but not as cheep. They are a must have when doing diagnostics on electrical. We had a guy in a shop I worked in that didn't believe in them...he used the point on test light to pierce the insulation then the tested, instead of back probing connectors. needless to say, we did a lot of electrical diagnostics later on, once the wires corroded or broke...I nicknamed him the pig sticker...LOL...prolly couldn't get away with that today with the kinder gentler workplaces.
You could go ahead and spring for this mac daddy set. https://www.ebay.com/itm/92pcs-Car-...hDarwoV3BBEV2b&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851
Thanks to all , great info
Well, I back probe tested the throttle and it tests good. Due to having C spine fusion surgery a year ago and having limited neck mobility I will need to get help to do the throttle rod adjustment . There doesnt seem to be an easy way to get at the lock nut on the rod, so it will be another day . Thanks
The foot throttle is not adjusted to specs, is it likely that the 414 code is due to the foot throttle being out of adjustment or am I chasing my tail?
If it is not within the voltage specifications then it will not pass the calibration. Being out of adjustment will not set the 414 code. 414 code is sensor supply voltage higher than 5.5 volts. What voltage did you have at terminal "A" (red wire)?
I had 5 volts
While monitoring that voltage wiggle and yank on the harness from the throttle all the way back to the ECU to see if it rises above 5.5 volts at any time. if it does you have a harness issue. If not . Also try backprobing the ECU terminal E2 (P44A Red wire) to double check your voltage at that end. If your 414 is active with less than 5.5 volts at the TPS or terminal E2 of the ECU, then it might be the ECU.
ok, probably a dumb question but these ecu s scare me. Check voltage between E2 (p44A) and ground?
Yep. Backprobe that terminal carefully and check voltage between it and ground. Also while you are at it, also check the ground wire at the ECU. Backprobe it (terminal J2, G40 Black wire) and measure from it to ground. Perform these checks with the engine running.
I double checked the voltage at the throttle my voltage at low idle is 1.13 ( max 1.05) and the fast idle is 3.18(max 3.09) I pulled jiggled cursed and it stays steady. Reading is slightly above the max but probably just my meter
Hopefully I can run it again soon and see what happens, seems to start /run perfect ... just the "code".
Well here is an update on an old thread I finally got the my hoe fixed, her problems had multiplied until she just died . Turns out that it WAS the ECU ! A brain transplant is all that was needed LOL Thanks to everyone for the help along the way .