Newbie, hopefully I get this right. I was doing a job this weekend, went to switch buckets. Auto idle on as always, never left the seat nor lifted the safety lever. Had the helper pull the coupler pin. Hit the levers to start moving and it didn’t come off idle. Rolled the throttle control back and forth, lifted safety lever up and down. Auto idle on and off. Turned machine off and on, nothing. Ended up tapping the throttle arm on the injection pump wide open so I could continue working. I found a flow chart on here which I think I added on here . Wiring harness seems to be good, the dash does not flash any code(s). The problem I believe I’m seeing is the I have no voltage at the actuator, controller, or throttle switch. Did have a blown fuse for the 12volt outlet, didn’t have a 10 amp to replace and it popped a 5amp, will get replacements tomorrow. So where does it come from? Any insight from y’all would be great! Thanks
Welcome to HEF SmallBusiness ! Serial number? That F4 fuse is also for the auto-idle circuit.
Ser 260***. I’ll pick up a fresh pack of fuses and see what happens later today
Need more than 260.
Ser number 260197. Here’s what I got this evening. Put a fresh 10amp in and everything worked normally for a few minutes. Blew that, this time throttle was stuck wide open. Went ahead and put a 15amp in (yea not the greatest or smartest thing) and it has been back to normal for the time being.
I PM'd you.
Hi, Did you guys get this figured out? I have the same machine and also have the same problem. It keeps blowing the 10 amp fuses, and wont throttle up. Serial number: 267817 Thanks!
I actually just had to revisit this issue this week. It has been fine since I tried with a 15amp to get me by. But the electric motor inside the throttle actuator was shorting/open circuit. Easy to check by removing unit from behind front/side cover panel and removing the four screws that hold the bottom plastic cover on. On mine if you barely touched the terminals while using a meter on ohms it would open/short/read normal. Deere was was nearly $1000 for the complete unit. However I replaced the motor inside the assembly for $12. Quick google will find it as a rs-380ph motor. Hard part is getting the small gear off the old shaft and pressed onto the new one. Friction fit on stainless shaft. Had to cut the shaft off old motor to remove gear
Thanks for the tip. My 35D did the same thing, except it threw a SYS light on solid and it blew out the speed control rheostat. Stuck on idle thankfully. Motor shows 0L, open circuit. From what I can see it appears the brushes blew up in it, possibly causing enough of a short to take out the speed control. Question for you though, mine has a base plate on the gear side. Was there some connecting method for yours?
Still having an issue? If not, what was the fix?
If memory serves me correct, there was one with two Phillips screws on it. But the gear was a friction fit on the shaft
Thanks. Yeah, after I posted, I went to have another look. Once I cleaned some more gunk off the gear end, I found the pockets with some small screws in it.