Folks I have worked on a million 4239 deere motors but I've never had one that didn't make pressure at the injectors. Long story short this engine had sat without fuel in it for a while. So I snapped on a new fuel filter, hooked up a test tank and return tank and used the hand primer to fill the fuel filter and got fuel to the CAV pump inlet. From there I removed the lower bleed screw on the pump and filled, and then took the top bleed screw off the pump and filled it up as best I could there. I put a 12V line to the fuel solenoid and heard it click. With the injector lines cracked I couldn't get much of anything out at the injectors and zero smoke out of exhaust. My thought is either the shut off solenoid is bad even though its clicking (can I just remove the solenoid and remove the plunger while I am testing?), or the lift pump isn't putting out enough volume (I have a new one to install), and/or the injection pump has a stuck plunger or 4. I think I should address all 3 of those at once. Can anyone confirm that I can bypass the shutdown by removing the plunger and that way I don't even need 12V while testing the engine? I will install a new lift pump just because its a good idea anyway. And finally - what do you think I could do about the CAV - worth taking the top off the pump? Pump Number is RE15699
I've never seen it on a deere but the 12 volt suppy maybe to shut the engine down. What application is the engine in
Same story, different pump. this one might not be so nice to you though. Do you have biodiesel local? otherwise the same acetone ATF diesel mix, let it sit longer, try tapping it with a screwdriver handle, let it sit.
We may have local biodiesel. Will that help my situation or are you thinking thats what hurt this pump? I filled it with ATF yesterday and today we will add acetone. I'll let this sit for a week. I take it these don't unstick so easy and have to be taken down?
The older style sol. guts do come out & u can screw the body back in.. Newer style is a NO, they don’t come out.. & if it starts u can use the manual shut off to kill it..(other lever on top cover) I would definitely take the cover up(off).. who’s to say the metering valve isn’t stuck.?? BE SURE TO have the throttle in the wide open position and the air cleaner off when diagnosing a no start condition.. U can save some battery life by loosening the lines AT THE PUMP, instead of the injectors.. Once u get fuel at the loosened lines, tighten THEM & loose them AT THE INJECTORS until fuel squirts out and tighten..
YES, it will loosen gunk in the short term, but turn to gunk in the mid term. If it rusted up, then I'd guess acetone and atf is the choice, but your odds are worse with rust.
I put about 3-4 ounces of acetone into the pump through that top bleeder bolt. I am going to leave it alone for a week if I can. Before I try and start it again I think I want to get a fresh lift pump on there. Might do that while I wait. I haven't taken apart a CAV but if I can't get pressure to the injectors I might just use this CAV to educate myself some.
Well I think tomorrow I will try to give it another go. One last thought before I try the pump again...any reason I couldn't remove the inlet line and fitting and pour acetone in from there? If I could get more acetone/atf in there I think my chances of a start are higher...few days ago I had a steel fuel pickup line (long like 24") that was clogged 100% by gummed up old diesel. I tried some penetrating oil because the straw fit in the line and it didn't touch the gum. Put acetone in my mini syringe and started getting it into the line...melted out all the sludgy rusty colored stuff and line was 100% open quite quickly. I have a feeling I have that same gunk in this 4239 plus rust...so any reason I couldn't remove inlet to pump fitting and pour in more acetone...just dont want to remove the fitting if it can hurt anything.
Give it a try..
No dice. Fresh lift pump that is delivering plenty of volume/pressure and I get drips out of an injector line loosened at the pump. Its not a super weak drip but definitely not a strong stream. Next step is to see if the fuel shutoff solenoid is stuck. I hear it clicking but I need to pull it to be sure...ran out of time. I think the pumps gonna have to come off but I am just delaying the inevitable with extra diagnostics lol
1 more test.. Pull the inlet line off and fill the inlet of the pump w fuel to the top.. Now crank the engine a few rotations.. now check the fuel u put in the inlet.. Did the pump suck it down.?? If yes, that’s good.. If no.. that’s bad..☹️ If yes, that means the internals r turning.. If no, well u get the jist..
OOOF....I didn't even think about it having a broken shaft/internals. I will do that test but I am scared lol
Lol.. IDK what it is w the DPA pump on a J.D. application but they seize OFTEN.!!! MOST OF THE JD pumps are ROOSAMASTER/STANADYNE.. & they run forever.. IDK if it’s the “tighter” tolerances or the filtration set up.. .. but the CAV DPA pumps seize on the regular.. Hope yours is ok..
Yeah I have a feeling you're gonna be getting a seized DPA soon...
I can look it up & give u a ballpark w/o having the pump.. Send me an email directly.. Use my screen name @ aol.com in your home mail server and we’ll chat..
I've got your email in my inbox somewhere from a different forum or maybe this one. Will do once we see if she turns...
U BETTER HOPE it’s not seized.. The head and rotor and drive shaft will cost u more than the tractor is worth.!!!
It spins. Pulls down on fuel right as I hit the starter. Does that tell me the fuel solenoid is also working?
Yes.
So all we are left with is pump removal. Will report back when its on my bench
Ur gonna need a puller to pop the gear off the tapered drive shaft.. & Please don’t put any wrench’s on the pump once it’s off.. There r to many small parts that can get lost.. & besides, I charge extra if you “help”..
Yup - I have a few injection pump gear pullers hopefully one is the right diameter. On these Deere do I line up any dots on gears or how do I set engine before I pull the pump?
Of course there is.. Shut off the fuel.. or pinch a rubber line.. There’s a plug on the flywheel. Pull the side cove on the inj pump.. If u have the tool to Jack the engine over, USE IT.. The plug u took off the flywheel,should have a long end on it.. that end will be used as a timing pin.. & will drop in a hole in the flywheel.. UNFORTUNATELY, that hole comes up 2x.. To make sure your in the correct stroke.. look inside the pump thru the cover u removed.. LETTER “A” will line up w the flat on the clip..
Finally got back to this old engine. The pin went into the flywheel hole no problem (picture attached). Only question I have before I remove the pump is whether the "A" is showing in the correct position. A is at the bottom and H is at the top in the picture. Is A ok where its at or should it be in the middle (see picture). If I use the other hole in the flywheel you would see E. Using this hole allows you to see A but also H.
That looks ok.. BUT.. look where u wrote the A..inside the pump.. there should be a big C clip w a flat on the ear.. line up the A line w the clip.. it should be there already if the pin went in..
I don't recall exactly what I saw in there and whether the A lined up with anything. The flywheel pin is definitely in place so I will take a better look inside the pump. Will try to get a better picture to be sure I have the pump timed correctly for removal. Thank you
That’s not important at the moment.. As long as the A is there u know your on compression stroke #1 cyl. Start ripping and tearing.. Personally I would pull the top cover up and SEE if the metering valve is stuck.. If it is, unstick it.. put everything back together and see if it pumps fuel.. If it’s NOT PUMPING fuel, retime it if it makes u feel warm and fuzzy.. Then pull it off.. Do u have a puller to pop the gear off the drive shaft.?? Go to the small panel that’s IN FRONT OF THE PUMP...& remove it..& figure out if u have the bolts to fit in the holes in the gear.. Good luck
I do have the puller and maybe I'll take a look at the metering valve beforehand. When I take the cover off where would I find the meter valve under there? The model of pump does not have the manual shutoff lever just the throttle lever and uses the electric solenoid for shutdown.
Google & utube is ur friend..