https://www.silvertransferservices....MI9-2B4uvx_AIVOIYAAB3LGQSIEAEYASAAEgJcIPD_BwE Anyone used one of these? The ad came across the top of HEF this morning. I have been using a blue 5 gallon kerosene can for DEF for my 290. The secret I've found to avoid the white gunk is to leave a half gallon to splash around and keep the inside wet. The can I use has a spout that stores inside the can, with a cover that seals it up.
Buy the disposable containers, when tank is full throw away container no matter how much is in it. Much cheaper than any other way of filling def.
We use the risk 3 gallon race jug fill at the fuel depot
we do the same, and we never reuse the containers. They have a bulk tank at the shop for the trucks, and tried to refill jugs for the equipment from it. All it takes is a bit of contamination and
Same here. Our fuel supplier drops off a dozen or so 2.5 gals at a time at the yard when they drop off fuel. Our philosophy is use the entire 2.5 gals at one time or pour any remaining out - one use jugs. It has worked well for us so far with only 1 DEF injector replaced on our 325FL in 3K hours and (knocks on wood) no issues with the 3 DEF pickups or our D3. With 5 engines requiring DEF it's not hard to find a spot for 2.5 gals.
when the def tank on my Mauldin grader is at 25%, it will take a full jug with non left over
As everyone else has said, always from a sealed container, never reuse a container. Use all the contents and dispose of any leftovers. Crystallized DEF needs serious heat to liquefy. In spite of what you think, it doesn't dissolve in DEF.
If filled from a bulk tank make sure dispenser stays clean, no dried white crust on nozzle.
Yes, DEF is hygroscopic . We had a 55 gallon drum as well, had nothing but issues in winter
It’s amazing how DEF leaks out of every possible connection, hose or weld with the slightest amount of porosity.
I hate doing bulk def, worst thing we've done short of a few oddball sodium and caustic blend lines.
Just like every other fluid, the guys I know that have serious DEF cleanliness issues are also the type to do oil changes with the nasty funnel they found in the back of the pickup or use whatever container for fuel or use old coolant jugs for hydro... lol
If it leaked at a weld then it's obvious the weld was never tested. Testing could be pretty simple and not require an x-ray. Pressure test with air and soapy water, hydrostatic test using water or dye penetrant could also be used. No real excuse for a bad weld.
It’s a union. A little pipe dope on the threads that mate the union might fix that.
I was responding to if a weld leaked not necessarily what was in the pic.
No worries. I’m picking up what you are laying down. I test everything.
Just the opposite. In DEF, water evaporates leaving a higher ammonia concentration. This is especially true in arid desert conditions. In some parts of the world, it's common practice to drain the tank at days end to avoid quality issues the next day.
It's common practice in many companies to only buy 2007 and older trucks.
Yes, pretty simple. I'm just on my phone but guessing it's PSI on the gauge? When I worked at oilfield tank shops they would test large tanks with as low as 1.5 PSI. It was kind of amazing how much higher it seemed when they released it out a 3/4" or 1" valve. You'd swear there was 125 PSI coming out because there was so much volume going through a small hole.
I usually use air for testing, sometimes I use water. For safety sake and DOT compliance, 5 psi is the specified test pressure for the 406 work I do. Sometimes, I go to 8-9 psii when I know there is a leak, but I can’t easily locate it. Of course, for plant work, the FMCSA don’t apply. While creating SOP’s, my engineer explained to me that 5psi air has the same stored energy as 125psi water. So, I’m careful about not getting crazy with the air.
I've been hauling water last few months. It's a 80 bbl tank or around 3400 gallon tank, used vac or pressure to load or unload. When unloading the tank can get to 20+ psi, it's quite a bomb.
Interesting that back before I was a journeyman welder the owner of an irrigation company asked me about building a water fountain. My dad was responsible for him getting the Toro irrigation distributorship because it was offered to my dad. My dad was offered the distributorship but wanted to concentrate on the turf equipment so recommended him to Toro. He never forgot is why I was asked about building the water fountain. Unfortunately I just didn't have enough experience to build it so had to decline. One of the reasons he asked me was because a commercial welding shop they've used in the past lied to him on a job they did. They made some kind of smaller non pressure tank and when asked if it was tested said "Sure we put 20 PSI air pressure in it and tested with soapy water". My dad's friend knew right away that was a crock of ****! It shouldn't have had more than 5 PSI and 2 or 2.5 would have been sufficient.
CFherrman, Those DOT412 spec tanks are rated for MAWP of 35 psi. I’ve never really messed with them. Not many of them in hazmat service in my area.
We'll do 5 psi air on small stuff, bigger stuff we hydro. Oh no Victaulic lol
That’s a good idea and practice. I ran into a Canadian outfit that uses nitrogen. That’s too Gucci for me.
BE dragline booms were filled with nitrogen to alert operators of cracks. Nitrogen also prevents corrosion. Have read that Cat used a special corrosion inhibitor in later dry steering clutch compartments and pressure tested them for leaks. Yesterday read something that said nitrogen fumes prevent corrosion so thinking that might be what Cat used from the factory. Has baffled me for a while because nobody seemed to know of a corrosion inhibitor for clutch compartments.
Rust requires oxygen, thus the term oxidization, so if the nitrogen displaces the oxygen, there you are. It's not uncommon for old barges to be bright steel on the inside if they were sealed up properly when launched. The oxygen gets used up and the rusting stops. But you'd better make sure it's well ventilated before you go in there!