We Have an air cooled Deutz diesel (maybe 50 horse power or less) on a year 2000 concrete pump. The timing belt broke. Will this engine have valve train damage, or is it designed so the valves won't hit any pistons if it is out of time? Don't know the model number unless it is BF4L 1011F.
Yes, BF4L 1011F is the engine model number. It's hard to say if you've done valve train damage unless you were around to hear the belt break. Better to err on the side of caution and check before starting. :my2c
Would pulling the valve cover and watching the valves open and close be sufficient, or would you say pull the head. On some engines I have heard that the valves would not hit the piston even if the valve was stuck wide open.
One of our Deutz has broken its timing belt three times... Still on the same valves although I've had to replace a rocker stand and the lifters this last time.
the only damage ive seen happen when the belt breaks is bent pushrods. :drinkup
I had a hard time believing that Deutz would put a rubber timing belt on an engine but http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gehl-6640-Timing-Belt-Component-Kit-DEUTZ-BF4M2011F-/220734109058#vi-desc This could be of interest HeavyEquipmentForums Anyway in regards to valves hitting pistons, in the mechanical world there are two types of engines, non-interference and interference. Non- interference engines are designed so the valves cannot touch the piston even if the timing goes out, whereas in interference engines the valves can hit the piston unless the timing is correct. Most modern engines are interference engines.
pull the valve cover, you'll probably see the bent pushrods, they are very lightweight, and small diameter, they take the abuse when the belt snaps and the pistons hit the valve i've never seen a bent valve in a 1011, and only 1 time i've seen a burned valve or damaged seat, and that was from a bad injector. the engine was run 1500+ hours with a "little miss and hestitation, and didnt seem to have any power" those engines require 2 timing tools and a belt tension guage to properly time the engine and set the tensioner. always install a new tensioner with the new belt. check around the forum, i've seen several threads on bobcat 863/873/s250 timing belt failures.
Thanks for the information crewchief888
yer welcome :drinkup
crewchief888 you seem to have a great deal of info on this engine and on my 1011f i seem to have my cam and crank out of time is that possible can you shad some lite please
anything is possible. what makes you think it's out of time? going to need some more info. :drinkup
Orville.... those little engines are pushrod eating buggers.... lol... when the belt breaks. Grampa.
yea but they are a rugged engine, i've seen them run all day long with 240* oil temp. worked on more than my share of them, even when a belt breaks, new belt and tensioner, set the timing, replace the bent pushrods, adjust the valves and away she goes. recycling guys loved them, didnt have to clean the cooling system every 2 or 3 hours like they do with lift trucks :drinkup
Normal temp range on those engines is under 268*.
My brother has maybe 5 of those engines on Schwing concrete trailer pumps. After he lost the one belt he changed the rest of the belts before they broke. He has yet to fix the one that the belt broke on. He had a spare Deutz and just changed the engine. I will show him the post on the Bobcat 863 timing belt and maybe that will get him on the right track.
I rebuilt my 1011 Duetz with all new bearings , pistons, and oil pump . Oil pressure still seems low? Is this normal?
I am not sure what the number is for low, but have read here about a plug that has a faulty spring behind it in the bore. Some kind of pressure regulator. Will look for my manual if I still have. Simon C
Found the picture. There is 5 plugs decent sized that 4 of them are just below the oil filter in a vertical pattern left of the oil filter. There is one at top corner of block. This one has a spring in it. Of the other 4 just below the filter, the top one has a spring. The 2 bottom ones have springs also. Whatever you do , do not mix up. Will see if I can copy and send to you. Can't do tonight. 3 pages worth. Simon C
When rebuilding I removed the valve to clean. I still don’t understand how the oil is circulated through the radiator. Is there a thermostat to control temperature? I also had a cab heater but removed as it is an open cab. I ran a jumper hose from the two fittings to allow circulation. See pic. Thanks Dave H
Also the fuel pumps were removed and one was replaced as it wasn’t pumping. There is a hole to pin the rack in position for install. How can I be sure they are in correctly? The center two don’t seem to be pumping fuel.
One of the 5 plugs,( yours have pipes attached ) has some kind of thermostat control in it. The manual pictures will explain better. Will try to send this morning. Simon C
I sent you a message so check you incoming mail. Dont have anything on the pumpers, sorry. I had 50 pages photocopied from a customers book 13 years ago and still had it. That is what I sent you from. Simon C
Thank you. Dave
Got my motor running today. I pulled the top plug and found the spring and plunger were in backwoods. I correcited this. After running for a few minutes it says low oil pressure. The dipstick showfull. The manual says it holds 16 qts in the oil system. I only put 4 or 5 qts in the motor and it reads full. What Am I missing . How do I put more oil in it to fill the cooling radiator.