Does anyone know where the fuel primer is located on a John Deere 6675 skid steer? or if it has one, I recently bought a John Deere 6675 skid steer with 1,250 hours on it, the machine runs smooth with no leaks, I've never owned a machine like this so I have no experience with it and I have no experience with diesel engines. A problem it has is during a cold start it takes about eight tries before the engine keeps running, it starts on the first try but then quits and does this until about the eighth start then keeps running, its as though it was run out of fuel, I'm thinking there is a air leak in the fuel line but until I can take the time to get in there to inspect it I've heard there must be a hand primer to prime the engine in the event its run out of fuel. I would prefer priming it to help save on the starter, once its started and warmed up it re-starts just fine. I bought a basic operating manual on e-bay but it doesn't help me in this area. Thanks for any help.
I have an 8875 and it has a hand primer on the fuel filter block. It also has an electric fuel lift pump. Kinda sounds like your electric pump is weak, allowing a loss of pressure to the injector pump, therefore making the injector pump suck fuel to it as well as supply pressure to the injectors. This causes an injector pump to DIE quickly. While priming it might help it start better if the lift pump is toast, priming it wont save your injector pump. Could also be something as simple as a loose hose clamp or loose fuel filter housing allowing a loss of pressure. Those I would think should show up in the form of a fuel leak though. John
Does that have glow plugs or a intake heater? I'd look there before suspecting fuel. If an engine starts and dies immediately from sucking air, it takes a longer time to restart it, that's just my experience. Does it fire on one cylinder and putter out, or does it fire on all run smooth for a second and then all die? Also, is there smoke as it dies?
I will look for the hand primer by the fuel filter, I recall seeing a glass jar kind of filter, if it was a fuel pump I wouldn't think it would run so smoothly once it starts but then I should look into that thought anyway, I'm hoping for the loose connections but you make a good point about a fuel leak, hopefully its loose enough to suck air but not so loose to leak fuel. Unfortunately I live two hours away from where I keep the machine, I bought it late last November and the shed where I've been storing it is little more than a pole type shed and its been so darn cold until just lately, I will be there on this coming Friday to use it some and take a look for that hand primer, is it a bulb or a lever looking thing?
I believe it has glow plugs, it requires so many seconds before it cranks over, it does fire on all four cylinders or its smooth anyway, I don't know that it smokes any more than normal then once it continues to run it runs smooth and very little exhaust smoke
My 8875 is an intake preheater. Just noticed you were in MN. If its extremely cold mine wont start just by waiting for the preheat cycle. Straight above my right arm is the service/run switch (white rocker) and a momentary push button. The push button manually activates the preheat. If its below 30*, sit in the seat with your seatbelt on, hold the preheat button 45-60 seconds, then turn the key, let it count down and then start. That procedure is good to about 10*, below that I heat it with a diesel fired torpedo if it has to run. The primer is a lever on the fuel filter block (the glass jar looking thing). Mine also has a primary inline filter about 4" out from the top of the tank. Hope it helps John
What John said is about what I was thinking. If it fired on one or two and sputtered out (which you say it doesn't) I'd guess you had a couple bad glow plugs. If it has any smoke/fuel mist at all when it dies, or when you immediately crank it again, then it has fuel. You'd think an engine that starts smooth would stay running, but I had a 3116 Cat that would do the same thing if it was cold enough/not plugged in, so if 6cyl/6.6 liters with a manual transmission will die from cold air, then a skid steer engine with hydraulic pumps sure could.
My 665 is essentially the same machine with glow plugs. When I had one bad glow plug that is how it started. With all 4 good ones it has started down to 20 below, with synthetic oil of course. And take the plugs out to check them then you know for sure. Napa had new ones.
I will be going there this Friday, I will look for the service/run switch and the push button, I know there is a countdown on the LED. I am printing all these suggestions to take along with me, its sort of tough when I'm not by the machine to give immediate feedback but I will give feedback when I return.
Thanks for letting me know about Napa having the glow plugs in case I need them, I like Napa for things other than passenger car supplies. I am hoping this is an air leak but replacing glow plugs might be something I can do and considering the age of this machine it certainly could be something like that.
You can check the plugs with a ohm meter before you remove them. Take the contact strip off them and check between the plug end and the engine. The readings should be similar for all 4. The sure way is to remove the plug and connect it to 12 v . It should get red hot about the first 1/4 inch or so. Should get red within seconds, I think about 3-5. Napa was about 15 bucks a couple years ago and New Holland was around 50 for each so don't drop them on the concrete. However you may have a yanmar engine whereas mine is built by shibauru so may be a different plug.
Yes it does have a Yanmar engine but hopefully the plugs are a similar price in case I need to replace them. I do have a ohm meter and will take it along, I bought the ohm meter a few years ago to do some simple wiring but I will try to figure it out and do what you outlined.
still no solution Sorry about the long delay to reply back. I will be taking out the glow plugs to see how they test because as someone mentioned that could be the problem. I have looked over as much of the fuel line as possible and see no sign of a primer, nothing. I hope these images come through to help recognize this setup.
That looks the same as my lx665 , no primer on mine, according to the book just turn on key and let electric pump run a few minutes and it should go. But in another book it describes a bleed screw on the pump. I could not find one on mine but never have had any trouble with priming after filter change either. Waxy buildup did give me trouble this winter though. Make sure the lift pump , which is the shiny cylinder, has good connections.
You don't have to take the glow plugs out, just disconnect the wire at each one and test them with an ohm meter (multimeter). They should be pretty close in ohms. You can even test the whole lot of them hooked together if you have the spec and trust your meter.
Check that metal inline filter. It's possible it was replaced with a parts store filter which may not be rated for diesel. They are cheap anyway. I change them on my machines every 50-100 hours. Its cheap insurance to me. That pump on the right is the lift pump. But that looks more like a parts store pump the previous owner added on to me. It looks too new for the age of that machine. Where the hose connects to the pump on the left side, that small brass block there has a small filter screen inside of it. Check that for trash. I had an issue with one of my machines where it would do how you describe. Hard to start and if you did get it started it would sputter and finally die. The problem was very small particles of trash blocking the filters.
I will be going there this coming weekend, it should be easy enough to change I will pick up a filter and check the screen too, I looked on-line and this looks like the filter: Thank you for the help!
When you get that inline filter , the right one is see-thru plastic and here I had the choice of either a screen inside or a filter element inside. I figured the element would stop finer particles. I have never seen that filter more than 3/4 full on mine when running so don't let that bother you.
Thank you for the description, the first one I bought yesterday was metal just like the one in the picture I posted earlier, when I returned home I looked it up on the WIX website which said it was for gasoline and gave me the correct number for diesel, I wasn't given a choice of the type of element inside, I will attach it Saturday when I get to the machine, this might be the solution, I will post back. I need to find a original owners manual for this machine that gives me the correct parts list.
Thanks for the information, I will check the connections of the lift pump when I replace the filter, I hope the new filter does the trick.
Alright, I am counting on the filter being the culprit but I will test the plugs as long as I am in there, try to anyway.
You have already replaced or at least drained the water separator filter by the radiator ,right?
I am a rookie with this so I've circled the filter that I believe you are referring too?: I will see if I can drain it. Thank you for the suggestion.
Jd must be different in that way, on the new Holland the water separator/filter is in the radiator compartment right behind the shiny fuel pump and has a petcock on the bottom.
Replacing the fuel filter didn't help in the starting although I feel better about having the correct filter in the fuel line and it might give the engine a little more power during loads (or its just my imagination). I tried loosening the fuel separator but it was too tight and I didn't think to look for a petcock but I will be going back again this weekend so I will drain it while changing oil now that I have the correct numbers for the oil and air filters, I have the serial numbers for the engine and engine model, its much nicer working on it outside now that its finally in the sixties and some sun. I ran across this website which will help too but I realize I need to buy a parts/technical manual: http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMKV11661_J0/Output/kv11661j05.html#41156 there I found this about the water separator and priming, no wonder I couldn't find a plunger or priming rod: View attachment 119039 and I couldn't find any wires leading to glow plugs, only fuel lines leading to the top of each cylinder.
If you have no glow plugs there is probably a grid heater in the intake . I think almost all have some cold start aid now. Dealer should be able to tell you and if it is a intake heater they should point you toward the relay and solenoid that controls it.
Did you read the part about the cold start intake heater in the manual link?
Yes I did, I've held it for the recommended time, if I shut the machine off and start it within minutes it fires right up but if it sits for more than just a few minutes even though it is still warm the engine requires at least a couple of tries before it runs, its as though no fuel is available. I will be changing oil (going with full-synthetic) and new air filter this coming weekend then use it for a few things. I suppose I need to spend the money and call the John Deere dealer about getting a service manual for this exact machine. I will report back with anything I find.
Not the same thing but I had a chevy truck that did that and it turned out to be a pinhole leak in the riser tube in the tank. You could tee in a pressure gauge on the fuel line to see if it is leaking back after shutdown. The chevy had a fitting on the fuel rail to do just that.
You know that's a good idea, it could be the hose anywhere in the line, but you are saying inside the tank? Any idea what size that fuel line would be? I'll be going there tomorrow and I would pick up a few feet today before work. I'm thinking 1/8 inch inside diameter.
If there is a check valve in the tank it could be bad. It could only be leaking back through a pinhole if it were in the tank of course. I would guess the line to be about 1/4 inch dia.
A quick update: I changed the fuel line and the problem was much worse, it required 3 times the amount of tries to keep the engine running which made me believe the system needed to be bled, did that with some help from a friend and the unit started almost immediately (2 tries when cold), but after letting it sit for awhile again the same problem, I bought a manual and see a air check valve which is part of the automatic bleed system if the unit is run out of fuel so thinking that is bad (after all its over twenty years old) I have that coming at this time. The manual was expensive but it will be a good resource.
Just a quick update: I replaced the air check valve which made no difference. Tomorrow I will replace the metal fuel tube that goes into the fuel tank which was suggested earlier, I ordered it new and the supplier called it "vintage", I suppose I am fortunate to find one, I will post back.
The old tube had quite a bit of flaky rust around the top few inches but no evident holes, the new tube didn't make any difference. The next step is have a mechanic look at it.
Any chance you can get someone to go with you to help you? And an air compressor. I've got an idea that I had a similar problem with one of my machines once. Didn't think about it when I first posted here. The problem was it would get a small piece of trash in the line. Sometimes it would run perfectly fine. Others I assume the trash would get stopped up and it would do just how you explain. If you can get access to a helper and an air compressor just to satisfy my curiosity give this a try. With someone in the cab to turn the starter take a blow gun on your air hose and wrap a rag around the nozzle. Use the rag to seal the top of the gas tank and stick the nozzle in it. Blow some pressure through it to pressurize the tank and lines. If you get a good seal give it 10-15 seconds of air then have the helper try to start it.
Thank you for the reply, with no recent replies I wasn't sure anyone was still interested. This past Tuesday I had a mechanic in the area meet me to have a look at the machine, he is a John Deere mechanic and also farms. After a bit of looking around he noticed what I believe is called a "fuel shutoff solenoid" not working properly, he would have me turn the key on and show me how the solenoid would not engage to allow the flow of fuel unless pushed in manually, when he would have me turn the key he would push in the the solenoid rod and the engine would start. The cost of the solenoid is expensive at $140 plus there will be labor costs, I wanted to have the job completed before I report back here what the solution to the problem is. I believe the mechanic will be replacing the solenoid yet this week and I will post back.
Replacing the solenoid didn't help the starting, hard to believe, so the mechanic took the machine to his shop, I didn't need it for a while and he could work on it in between other jobs, he had it for a couple of weeks. Alright, almost a final to this thread. I got the machine back a few days ago, it starts up on the second try but then I haven't started it up after its been setting overnight. The mechanic was able to take out all four fuel injectors, they required a lot of patience to get out because they were very tight, probably never been out before. Anyway, the injector farthest from the back of the engine was slightly scored so he cleaned them all up best he could, he wanted to take them into a specialty shop but I needed to use the machine so he put them all back in with anti-seize, the plan is to take them out at a later time and have them checked. After cleaning out the tank of some rust flakes from the fuel tube and again replacing the filters and cleaning the fuel injectors the machine starts and runs better than before. The problem of hard starting was probably a combination of things (lack of maintenance), I will post back when I know more about how the machine cold starts but I expect it to be a good starter.
A bad injector could definitely cause the machine to be hard to start and or keep running. A bad injector can also erode the top of the piston over time, cause a loss of power, increase fuel consumption and a host of other issues. On my 8875 the injectors are about $80 each to replace from JD. At that price you cant afford to pay someone to rebuild them or work on them very much. Not sure if the 6675 is a 3 cylinder like the 8875 or not but if it's lame on 1 out 3 that would cause lots of problems. Good Luck John
I agree that $80/injector is probably one hour of labor at a specialty shop and then they are still old, I don't know what the price is for an injector for the 6675 but I will find out from the mechanic that worked on it and maybe get them myself and have him install them, there are four injectors. I'm just so thankful that this may have been the problem and not the injector pump. I am keeping this thread going in the event someone else experiences the same problem, I heard many things here and outside this thread and some of them outside sounded bad.