Make, model, tread, usuage... any thing you want to say or ask... feel free to do so. OCR
As far as tread pattern I like the second set better for all around use. They grip better in winter around here and probably run cooler on the highway. As far as brand both seem ok.:beatsme
Are those Bridgies Caps??? I don't think you can touch Michelin for steers......but I'll run just about anything thats round for drives
those toyo's look simialar to a lot of tyres pushing logging trucks here in qld, rugged and chunky,
the last picture is a popular tire in the great white north. thansk KoO Published Author
Im wondering how good the toyo casings are when it comes time for retreading? When I worked at a goodyear shop, we had two different models of tires, that were very similiar to the ones in the pictures. The top one is similiar to a goodyear 177, and the bottom one is similiar to a 244 goodyear. The top one looks like alot of tires that are used in the bush up here too.
I run Bridgestone 844's on the steers (nothing except a Michelin performs as well). They don't hydro plane in our Canadian snow and slush winters at highway speed. As for drives I ran Bridgestone 711's. I took the factory Goodyears off before I went to work with the Paystar. The 711's had very good traction in all terrain and they went just over 90,000 km. But that is with lots of off road and u-turns all day on 2 lane roads while paving. I did have to rotate them a couple times, due to lots of heel and toe wear, but that was mostly my fault due to my heavy foot on acceleration. They have very deep lugs so they will wear like that if you're always putting the torque to them. Never-ever got a flat with them. Last year I was working in blasted rock all winter and spring, so i put a set of those cheap Roadlux on the drives. They are 711 copies, just not as deep a tread. They are made in the same factory as Aeolus. They are cheaper than retreads. I was scared when I looked at them off the rims as the rubber is so soft in the sidewalls it feels like you could poke your finger through them. But they held up in the rock and never chipped or cut at all. I was amazed. Over 6 months on blasted rock and not a mark on them. But as soon as I started hauling asphalt on the highway in the summer and the road temperature came up, they burned off pretty quick. But still got nice even wear and no failures.
I didn't know you actually had a Paystar... thought that just might have been your user name... Think you could post a picture of it? This has always been on or my favorite pictures... 5600i...sure would make a good water tender if it was spec'd. right. Thanks Paystar, OCR
Hey paystar, how much cheaper were those roadlux drives then recaps? We sold aeolus, but we sold cheap ones (not sure if they even have expensive ones) and they seemed to do OK. Nothing overly great, but OK.
Drive axle tires: opinions welcome: Yeah, I'm pretty sure they are Squizzy. They're on are water tender and my brother got them in early spring of last year. I got the Toyo's on the day before I posted the pics., and they're new... Our tire dealer said they had a little more tread depth... 31/32 inch total... I think, but don't hold me to that. I don't think he had caps for that particular tire either. He also said they might hold up better for our application. He's a hell of a good guy...so I just went with what he said. Our truck was at the IH/Kenworth dealer, and they had just finished a DOT inspection. I called him that morning about tires... and he went over to IH, took truck back to his shop... put new tires on... and back to IH, before I got to Billings. Put 8 new tires on our lowboy at the same time too... and it was unhooked, in the trailer lot at the IH dealer. I am very well pleased with the service from both these dealers...:thumbsup We're not exactly what you would call " volume " customers... Take care, OCR
I paid $245.00 a tire for the Roadlux installed. That's for an 11R22.5. Recaps go for around 250 canadian here. lots of guys are using Aeolus around here even on log trucks. A bit more than the Roadlux, and even they went up in price once everyone started buying them. Actually all tires had a price increase here lately (they blamed oil prices) except for Michelin, they lowered their prices to compete. Here's a pic of my 2005 Paystar OCR. I don't have it anymore. Went out of business the end of May. Guys here are working way too cheap and I refused to go to work just to pay a fuel bill. No one even tried to get the rates up ointhead this year with the price increase of fuel, so I said to myself, it will never change, so I quit while I was ahead. I'm not into running old junk and hiding from the dot, nor will I work a $160,000.00 truck for $50.00 per hour. :Banghead
Drive axle tires: opinions welcome: Thanks Paystar... It's a bute'!! I'm very, very, sorry to learn that... My best wishes to you... for the future. Thanks again, OCR
you were smart to walk away. a guy that fixes computers gets more money then a truck on the road. i'm the same way, it costs money to do business in the great white north. if they can find a guy to weld cheaper then me, fine let him do the job and you will never see him back up here again because the costs killed him. thansk KoO Published Author
Kinda off the tire topic but thanks guys. Did lots of thinking, Lowboy can verify that, but in the end I didn't want to be "one of those guys" and end up running old junk. All good now though. Went back to work for an old employer driving a nice 9900i tractor hauling bark with a 6 axle walking floor trailer. Decent wage, benefits, off weekends and home for supper every night. AND NO FUEL BILL Back on topic....we run Firestones on our highway tractors and we do quite a bit of off road with them. I can't remember the model number but they get really good traction and lots of miles before replacement. I'll get the model and post it, but I wouldn't count out Firestones either. If I still had my truck I would actually switch over to them.
Glad to hear things worked our for you Paystar...:thumbsup Hope things continue to go good for you. Take care, OCR
Just a snippet on drive tyres i have learned the hard way . If you use tyres with individual lugs like a Michelin or similar , keep them pumped up hard . 115psi is good . With lower air pressures the tyre changes from being round to being flat at the bottom which makes the lugs protrude at that point which makes them scrub as they change shape . This causes the tyres to "Heel and Toe" . The rounder you can keep your tyres the less they will wear . It's the same action that takes place when a track machine is walking . As the plates go under the front idler and straighten out they pinch at the ground . I use this example as most of you would know of this pinching/scrubing action .
Drive axle tires: opinions welcome: No Squizzy, I am wrong... the Bridgies were new, when bought. Take care, OCR
Another thing about drive tyres is that if you are going too only put four new ones on , do'nt put them on the same axle . If you do it will cause "wind up" of the axles as the rolling diameters are different . Put 2 on the right rear and 2 on the left front as the sun gears in the diffs will compensate for the difference in diameters . Also the right rear and the left front are the wheels that do most of the driving . It is still not a good idea to not put 8 new tyres on together as the sun gears are mainly for speed compensation of the wheels on turns and it will cause premature wear to have them spinning all the time with odd sized tyres .
That would make a nice daily driver in the city.
Ironhorse I am not following you on this post Another thing about drive tyres is that if you are going too only put four new ones on , do'nt put them on the same axle . If you do it will cause "wind up" of the axles as the rolling diameters are different . Put 2 on the right rear and 2 on the left front as the sun gears in the diffs will compensate for the difference in diameters . Also the right rear and the left front are the wheels that do most of the driving . It is still not a good idea to not put 8 new tyres on together as the sun gears are mainly for speed compensation of the wheels on turns and it will cause premature wear to have them spinning all the time with odd sized tyres . If a trk. has a power divider only one rear drives,diference in tire size between axles would only matter when you engaged both rears. Mack had an automatic power divider- on these tire size was very important. If you buy eight new tires(same brand and size) the diameter should be the same. -probably closer than mixing new and used. the way i have always seen this done was Replace - two tires always put on gutter side to compensate for crown in road, rarely years ago small const. co. would run one size larger on the gutter side- but only if they just drove on high crowned roads exclusively Mack always recommened changing all eight rear tires at the same time. also they suggested checking circumference (all should be with in 8% or less I THINK) Placed as follows smallest left ft. rear next larger right ft rear next would be left rear rear- largest would be right rear rear I would think putting new tires on the left with used on the right, would make spiders gears work a lot harder
You seem to have not read what i said about sun gears . And yes it is a BIG no no on Mack's . But what you are saying is that it is ok to put 4 new tyres on one axle as long as you do'nt use the Power Divider . It would be good to be able to use the Power Divider . And also the Power Divider is made up of Sun gears which are spinning madly trying to compensate for the different speeds of the two diffs when they should be almost stationary causing undue wear . It's a bad thing to not fit 8 new tyres at once but in the real world where money is tight people will only fit 4 at a time and it is the lesser of 2 evils too fit them diagonally as it will not cause imediate harm too the diff centers too run like this as long as cross axle diff locks are not locked when on hard ground . But fitting 4 on 1 axle WILL cause imediate harm when the power divider is activated on hard ground in preperation for a loose patch . The weak link is usually the Power Divider shaft which will break instantly if this happens , espesially on SP40 Rockwells .
you are correct in my misreading your statement about eight tires I see nothing in my statement saying not to use power divider I do not use power divider except in low traction situations- low traction should allow the tires to slip, before the big bang. I am curious as to the amount of size difference you had to break the power divider shaft ?
I have never broken one but have fixed many . As for engageing , a Power Divider should be locked before you come to the loose patch . It is pointless to engage it after losing momentum as you will need to stop or de-clutch to engage it or you will cause damage if a wheel has lost traction , then your stuck .
Iron horse thats quite rich! since I have not broken shaft or power divider myself and have only seen a few broken in the last forty years I will stick to my procedures , rather than moving on" Fixing many" YOU HAVE A GOOD DAY!
I am a truck mechanic and have "FIXED MANY" from guys like you .
It is important that young truck drivers cruising these forums looking for advice do not pick up bad habbits along the way . ALLWAYS engage the Power Divider before you hit the loose/slippery patch , pre'empt the situation , keep your momentum , make sure no wheel is slipping before engaging . This is not my law , just good and well known driving proceedure . http://209.85.173.104/search?q=cach...avajo+pride+trucking&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=2&gl=au Young truckers please read page 3 of the Navajo Pride Trucking driving tips on this link as the page i attached is unreadable .