Can't tell if if this engine is a DT466E or just DT466 looks to be just plain DT466 from the lack of ECU above the injector pump. Also has coolant in the oil which means possible blown head gasket (I doubt) pitted liner or leaking oil cooler with only 200k miles don't see how that was possible. You guys thinks it worth it if I rebuild it myself, just need to pull up to 20k lbs. Let the opinions and facts fly!!! https://billings.craigslist.org/hvo/d/billings-1997-international-4900/7106090499.html#
Wouldn’t a non E have a mechanical fuel pump? 200k miles could be 30k hours. It looks clean, if it was near here I’d look at it for a parts vehicle at least. I have a 2002 4700 which should have a lot of similar parts.
That's what I was thinking and I have a DT466 mechanical already, looking at it $2500 would turn to $4500 after fixing and I cringe at having to replace the liners.
After looking more this is what else I found, now this is more like it, just hate having tandems instead single rear axle, something that needs to be converted one day. https://missoula.craigslist.org/hvo/d/grantsdale-1987-international/7103336993.html
Mine is a 97 and it's not an E model Easiest way to know its not an E model is look on the dash behind the steering wheel on the right. It will have a Tee fuel shut off cable
Welp it's a E version, I just don't find it cost effective for my use on rebuilding it versus how much power it puts out with fact I see no trailer air brake lines which I like to have for possible future use.
From the pics I'm seeing it would be hidden behind the wheel The key switch would be on the left and cant see that area either
The person finally answered back and told me it was a E version plus with only 210 hp so that solves that mystery.
check this 300 cummins l-10- 9 spd. fuller 11.24.5 rubber
Looks nice, I like how it sits further in front of steer axle like it's lower to the ground to get down. Looks to be flatbed going on the back, what's with it?
My 99 4700 is an E if that helps. I think the year IH went with the 466E was 1998 - not sure about that.
I have a 99 4700 and it’s an E also.
That's what I'm seeing, so I'm looking elsewhere for something mechanical, has air brakes , isn't too damn long, and list goes on.
My 97 non-E and has juice brakes
Yeah that's same under this hood on my current rig I have, but is too long to tow my stuff back from Washington state, wouldn't trust the juice brakes to hold the weight going over continental divide grades and I'm already loaded with weight. So either (A) I get another semi with such features or (B) gather parts to convert the Dodge 3500 someone gave me from auto to manual since transmission is shot. Problem also with (B) there is 385,000 miles on the said truck and has been exposed to salt water it's 14 years and it's in another few states over.
No comprenda por va vor Wouldn't use 26000 pound truck with juice brakes but would use a 3/4 pick up. As Ricky Recardo says esplain Lucy
Never said I wouldn't do it, just " possibly" wouldn't rebuild a engine in a truck that cost me $2500 then turn around another $1500 or more in parts and try to do this in a open pasture. One thing to fix one it's another to crack open a engine to fix it. What it will cost to pay someone to move my stuff is as much as buying a rig to move it, which in basics of what is needed moved is 40' shipping container converted into a 5th wheel, a Zetor 9540 fully dressed out, and a full 20' shipping container except I'm renting the shipping container so it has to stay just my contents need to go. With that said there is three options: (A) 1 ton Dodge 3500 as said of current condition in last post (that I don't trust) (B) 29' beverage truck that has been converted (which is too long to pull 5th wheel and has no place for 5th wheel) (C) Another truck which I rather it have air brakes and a 5th wheel hitch
Now this looks teasing, if I could just get it down a $1,000. I got till this "beer" virus lockdown is over with to find something so I can move my 5th wheel cause soon as that's up the guy is going to be a jerk and jack my monthly storage up to $300 to $500 a month for a 5th wheel. Irks me I fixed his sewage for free, his car for free, washer for free and only charged him $1,200 to do a roof on his house he paid for materials. I'm sure I fixed more than that for free while paying rent and won't give me a break now. When someone sends a money request weeks in advance for rent it causes me to levitate. Anywho here is the link, anyone see anything wrong besides mismatched steer tires or something else I should be aware of? https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/192786927/1979-freightliner-800-coe
That's a classic. But the price is crazy if you ask me. should be around 3000 IMO. MAX. Offer half, that's how those dealers work. Take it in for X and then double it for retail.
In this day and age, would be shying away from ANYTHING older than 1995, and Yes I am aware my old crap is FAR Older but I do not have to rely of it. Twenty years old on a HD Chassis is a LOT of time and abuse. That ex Boat or Car hauler Frtlnr was curious but would be a Nose anchor in soft ground. S Series Corn Queen 2300, 2500 series pretty easy to still get parts or work on and NOT Juice Brakes, getting newer going in the 4000 series trucks then are the Business Class Freightliners and some other makes in that Class Seven category.
That's actually how I do it when I submit offers unless it's already really low in which then I drop a quarter of asking price. Such as this rig I have now, asking $1000 for it I got it for $750. I have came to conclusion I need something with a sleeper so as to not stay in hotel/motels especially this day in age is one the reasons I was looking at it. It won't be going off road as much as this one which I managed to sink to the axles (yeah I'm proud of that one) at same time I have a electric winch I could put on it to pull it out. Maybe I should get one of those 2300/2500 and build a sleeper on it
Won't get stuck with this one... https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/192274571/1984-international-1954d
On a more serious note, would messing with this old Detroit be worth it https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/27658677/1987-international-2275 or should I stick with a Cummins https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/17143901/1980-international-2300
If you don't mind poor fuel mileage, any two stroke is not good on fuel.
True, Cummins it is
Seen more than one Big Wheel here in the muck waist deep to a human and stuck like no tomorrow. One of which they left sit TOO long ground dried some and took a excavator to free it!!.
Appell is a defined STAY AWAY!!!!, Buyer beware. Seen all too much of that stuff arrive around here, WHOOEEE!! Bad. As far as the other, not a 2300 even if has hood label, is 2275 and a SORRY SOB to work on.
Thanks I appreciate the outlook as is why I am posting them as I find them. Might be a bit or few weeks, but I will find one. Why is it hard one to work on, on the 2275?
Do you have a can opener?
Half the engine is Inside/under the cab the front half is relatively inaccessible either way, Doghouse is roughly the size of a Econoline Van BODY, Gear shifter is around Five feet long and awkward is NOT a good image descriptor.
Oh so that’s where today’s pickup trucks get their ideas on how to build trucks now. It’s best to lift the cab off then proceed to work on it. The FS6406A transmission I got for this rig was like that till I modified it, takes more strength but it works.
On that shift lever, Imagine standing on your fuel tank and enough stick to reach to center back wall of cab from where standing, flex like a rubber band. Right foot against side of doghouse, glad the ones I had to deal with had hand throttles as could get foot away from the heat.
To be really a game changer, look at Fire Protection Trucks coming up for sale. Heavier Frames, Heavier Axles, MOST are Automatic and can sell the pump gear/valve mechanisms off them, major bodies are Aluminum for weight reductions. ALL Manner of storage compartments. Usually sell CHEAP!
.....And if you do you will be there for the duration!!!
Quiet honestly I'm looking for short as possible with possible sleeper, this won't be a replacement for the current rig I have for the camper that it's on. In that regard I would replace it with a 2.5 or 5 ton military truck, but that is after I build a home/garage and such. I hate automatics, maybe when I pack some more decades on I will go for one. Limited time also on what I need cause between what is being done here with camper and whenever the "beer" virus lifts up is my time table to have something ready to snatch my stuff from Washington state, as is it's going to take time to get it ready to pull it out too. Though I do have a spare 5th wheel hitch for a semi just don't remember the width on it and it's in another state too
Sounds like my old GMC 9500. 8V71 exhaust manifold right next to your foot. Hand throttle was the cruise control back then. 55 MPH at 1800 RPM.
This might cook your foot too 8V92T https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/32604423/1981-international-transtar-4070
Actually, thats not a bad old truck there. I almost bought one in the early 80's that had about the same wheelbase, It had dual chrome everything and all aluminum wheels. IIRC it had a 400 big cam Cummins, 13 spd and dual 5" straight pipes. really purdy with a red, black, and silver tri color paint job. Then I saved 10 grand and got the GMC.
Well wife says I should get that one and willing to help buy it. So anyone got any information as to why or why not to buy that one besides MPG https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/32604423/1981-international-transtar-4070 Going to see if we can talk down the price online before going to look at it. Need to ask for more interior pictures, and research the VIN for gear ratio when International opens up. I figure to be getting around 6 mpg will be fine with me, not too much worse than the 8 I get with this current rig. Also over time I will ditch the back axles and put a 20k in it's place.
Good old Bouma, the 4070 cabs liked to crack out around the rear cab support/mount.
Creepy so few people know so many truck dealerships yet it's so great. If I get around to checking it out on person I will put that on my list to look for, thanks!
I've been back there to check out a few trucks myself. They do have a decent reputation. See a lot of grain trucks out here with their stickers and mudflaps on them.
So basically it's like going to a used car lot, wonder if they bought these trucks off of auction block too. Just roll it across bid not knowing anything of the history and sell it quick as possible with higher than bought for and higher than it's real worth. Seems like a hit or miss, better bring my tools, poor car is going to be loaded down with tools IF I go look at it.
It's been 20 years or so, but I got the impression back then most of their stuff was from Montana or North Dakota from large wheat farms that were just upgrading their stuff. Look at the one you brought up... 350 ish thousand miles on an 81? That's pretty low compared to what I see locally. A guy I knew here bought a big Pete from them and had good luck with it. And I see quite a few really nice sets of grain trailers from them. But go with your gut feelings when you look at stuff.
Yeah that is true, I resurrected this one from the dead. Worn out u joint in the steering, new belts, new hoses, blown transmission replaced, shocks/springs worn out replaced, dead gear splitter, new clutch, bench seat to air seats, more gauges, rebuilt front end and list goes on. Well bear with me as I keep looking while I see how this one plays out. Emailed and asked for more interior pictures and info on the rears on ratio.
Bouma is a roll of the dice like many of them, stay away from Woodpecker and Mountain High.
4070s, Steel Doors, heavy as a Iron block but solid old trucks. Sleepers on them and the F series Macks were not snug but TIGHT for anyone over 5'8". Dependable for the most part, most tandems were Dayton Four Spring, a few Hendrickson and neither rode any better than the other. Could almost drink coffee in one while sitting, not much if rolling!! Hated pulling radiators, only half tilt cab lift, came out thru front and the Enganear did not think much of clearances when designed.
Sounds like I am SOL then on the sleeper, at 6' might have to sleep diagonal. Not many selling rigs in Montana at my price range and not really looking forward to driving 1k miles to grab one. I emailed them waiting on response still as I keep looking in Wyoming, South Dakota and North Dakota.
Try to stick with Newer than '95, maybe even 2000, as already 20+ years old to those. Cab and Frame corrosion, engine parts obsoleting, trams and diff parts obsoleting, you ran into brake parts obsolescence on yours, Minn. Mags are fast becoming obsolete as are some versions of the old Budds and the hardware for them. IH Corporate drive Axles are pretty well an item of NLA, are a number of issues once pass 20 years and where technology has swapped to newer or Bigger Better Badder!! Find a old Tandem, cut it down move rear to single drive rehab drive line to accommodate then align for sleeper or living quarters style sleeper and install a home spun bed box for tooling. UT, WA, CA all not far and major metro regions where big machines do not move fast and prices align accordingly. CA pushing old trucks out past the borders, have to disappear or be scrapped as cannot drive them much by license regs.
I seen quite a few from California, and contemplated a few. Trying to stay away from computer controlled ones is why I was looking back so far before 95. Though I understand the oversight of the other ones as when something breaks it's either fabricate something or find a newer model and get a part off of it. Figured with so many of these the parts would be around longer, but guess like cars they are disposable. Definitely will cut a tandem down if I have to, no hesitation there
Random question, what's up with Volvo's they look cheap are for sale cheap but with of worthy components for a drive train from what I have seen.
Dealer/parts support is LEAN.
Ah I see, so if you break something better fabricate it or go straight to who made the component. Here is an example, I could drop by and say hi if I got it lmao. On serious side note it is rocking a Detroit 4 stroker instead of the screaming 2 stroker. https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/191862213/1993-volvo-wia64t
Pick your poison these days on most of these. I was still active in HD trucks as Volvo merged to White/GMC, this I believe is still the White Motor cab configuration. Not been around Marshall to know how well this dealer is. Other than absolutely filthy the truck does not look too rough edged.
That's good, it does look really roomy and I could cut cabinets down to make room for bigger mattress. First order of business would be clean, then go through take inventory of what needs fixed then a paint job, yellow eww.
As @Truck Shop has pointed out in other threads, the volvos were known for electronics failure in the dash. This required a new circuit board which is not cheap and getting to be few available in junk yards anymore. My grandpa has a Volvo of the same vintage with a 3406B Cat. Pulls great, nice visibility from drivers sear, but just like Truck Shop said it eventually would, the dash went out last fall. No Speedo, no tach. Only air gauge and lights work.
That's not a big deal to me, I'm use to that problem as I have been down that road in different form fashion, tick me off I will pull all the gauges put a plate over everything and fashion mine own instrument cluster. Been there fixed that HeavyEquipmentForums
Beating my head on a wall and I think something fell out, oh here we go this looks promising without traveling across the country in a plague... https://www.truckpaper.com/listings...994-white-gmc-wia42t?ST=north+dakota&CTRY=usa
Spud... You do realize that N-14 is electronic, don't you?
Yep though everyone keeps saying I need to keep away from the older rigs, so it's a fuk which way do I turn guess I better invest in some software/hardware to read it. Older rigs hard to find parts and cramped spaces or somewhat newer electronic crap that don't have too many sensors but enough to cause grey hairs.
Yeah, I know, 6 of one, half a dozen of another. Older doesn't bother me too much if it's in decent condition to start with. Got a customer running two '86 Petes (Pets) about 8,000 miles a month and they do well. Where you aren't trucking everyday and not looking to run maximum loads day in and day out, there's still room for the right oldie.
Well if this one doesn't do it we are falling back on the 8v92T from Bouma unless something comes up before we make it out there. Going to look for anything I can to negotiate the price down. About max I would ever run is 40k with truck, trailer and load, I think
Called the place and they were as lost as a candle lit at noon on what they had, now ask them about a John Deere then they might know. Supposed to got text message with pictures and a call or text back on questions, guess that was too much for them to do or even courtesy call. Anywho I ran the VIN at a stealership it's a STC330 Cummins engine whatever that means and geared to 3.08 so is there something I should look out for?
STC 330 is a lower powered Mechanical N14. STC stands for Step Timing Control, just a method to reduce white smoke at idle, the oil pressure control valve on them could be problematic at times and the engine would revert to smoking on start up. Some valves could be rebuilt others had to be replaced. Even with a direct high in the 9 speed, 3.08 gears sound a bit fast, but that engine may be limited to 1800 Rpm top speed.
As long as I get 60 mph I'm happy, I sit on the RPM red line on this DT466 of 2750 barely managing 60 mph. So you're saying I missed having to deal with the computer system CELECT? I tried and cross reference the STC330 part and I seen it was 330 HP 1350 T @ 1600 RPM. Sound about right? http://www.dwclutch.com/D&W/D&W Clutch & Brake 2/CUMMINS TORQUE.pdf
Yep, if it has STC, there's no electronics. And the pump can be jacked to get more RPM.
I can see myself getting into trouble with all this pump adjusting, end up turning out around 400 to 450 hp when done That's what it has as I ran the VIN through Volvo in Des Moines WA. Seems like the truck has increased in value now to me.
No power change, I meant the governor can be reshimmed for more Rpm so you dont have to do the 10 mile pass on the interstate.
Oh okay, so what speed would this thing cruise at normally? I'm the guy everyone else is passing cause speed limit is 80 here and refuse to go over 70. So no power change just stronger throttle response, I would love to do that and I would be the one turning the fuel pump up and such just for the feel of take off and ability of pulling up steep grades without dropping so many gears. When I/if get it I will contend with it then.
1600 rpm and 3.08s with direct high, probably 62-64 depending on tire size.
Fast enough for me, it's not the destination but the journey getting there