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Ec290BLC final drive swap

southernman13 · 2019-06-22 09:18

Never swapped one. We’re about to though. The complete assy. Motor and gear housing. We’re planing on breaking the track but thinking out loud could we just back off on the slack adjustment and change it out without breaking the track apart. We have forklifts to lift the track and another to slide final drive in with. Thanks for any suggestions

Replies9
  1. #1uffex2019-06-22 14:40

    Good day Suggest that you have plugs at the ready as fluid is open to tank, my own preference would be to split the track and get it clear for a straight lift maybe you have enough slack to do that cannot be sure from here. Be aware that not all of the transmissions are sourced from the same supplier its best to check it all match's up. Some of those track chains have a very loose master pin just held in by a bent pin, much easier to remove than the driven type. Kind regards Uffex

  2. #2uffex2019-06-22 14:52
  3. #3John C.2019-06-22 15:32

    Make sure you mark a spot on the track frame and a spot on the final drive that locates the original holes to put the drive motor fittings at the right angle. Otherwise the hoses will not fit right and you will have to pull the drive back out and move to the right mount holes. When I pulled or installed the drive I always used an choker around the final in a place where it balanced out at the a right angle to the track frame. That means you have to break the track and move it so it doesn't cover the final drive. You minimize having to manhandle it into the hole that way. My last hint is don't tighten up any of the mount bolts until all are installed and turned in a couple of threads. The holes are drilled very accurately and just a little bit off center and not all will start. It used to take me between four to six hours by myself with a service truck. It all depends on how hard the track is to break and make back up.

  4. #4southernman132019-06-22 17:20

    We ended up cutting the master link pin. We had already ordered a new one. Yes I marked the drive motor angle of the dangle so we get it in place the first time. Also took some pics. I guess we’ll put all the bolts in and snug a few then we can take them back out and apply red thread locker. At least that’s what was on from the factory. With two people and proper tools it hasn’t been to bad

  5. #5southernman132019-06-23 15:49

    Not sure anyone will see this today but we’ve having very difficult time trying to get the final drive out. We have all the bolts taken out and it’s not budging. We have a forklift under It and a chain around it lifting and Pulling. We have located an Allen head screw on the outside maybe that’s the issue.

  6. #6southernman132019-06-23 16:02

    Don’t think the Allen head has anything to do with it can’t even really get to it. It does look like we’ve moved it a fraction anyway. Definitely broke loose but doesn’t seem right

  7. #7funwithfuel2019-06-23 16:03

    Nope, just those big bolts around the perimeter. It's a perfect balance if you sling on both sides of the sprocket evenly. Sometimes you have to get between sprocket and chassis with a slate bar to get her to budge. Also did you take out the two little fittings for brake and high speed? Those will be damaged on the way out. Additionally, did you have spin fittings or flange for your connections? Sometimes on some machines they put adapters in place to make it fit more than one application.

  8. #8southernman132019-06-23 16:10

    Ok cool. Thanks we haven’t removed the extensions for brake and high speed. This one has bolt on flange fitting that adapt to flat face screw on. We removed the flange fittings already. Thanks so much we’ll get after it again

  9. #9southernman132019-06-23 18:09

    Yeehaw. Finally got it out. Took a few minutes with some pusher bolts. We’re using a friends facility and didn’t know he had made some. He called and few minutes later we were in bidness lol. Tomorrow we’ll put her back together. Thanks to everyone for the advise