I have one of these machines. https://www.google.com/search?q=ihi...2#imgdii=wvSGTev_poMIxM:&imgrc=2ehk2-CKdPAoSM : As you can see from the pic the air is sucked in with a mechanical fan through the radiator at the front. The engine bay is entirely closed with no vents other than the bottom being open. The machine has never completely overheated and in stop and go it does fine but anytime I have to track a long distance say a half mile or more it runs hot. The gauge gets all the way to the edge of the green and I stop for a little bit to let it cool and or open up the engine compartment which is the big rectangular door on top to let heat out. Even under normal operating temps the engine compartment gets super hot. My thoughts are to cut a couple holes maybe 12” each in this rectangular lid for the engine compartment and add some electric fans like the flex-a-lites they put on radiators to suck the heat out of the engine compartment. Seems like it would make a huge difference?
Link doesn't work.
Did for me ...... Does you machine have a closed glazed cab or an open one..?
I'd take a look at the simple stuff, first. Check for a clogged up radiator, and/or loose WP belt...
1st starters let's look at what Nige asked you. If you don't have a fully enclosed cab and you bore holes in the hood, you are going to roast. The next thing to consider is ,is this machine ever going to be used in a cold or Winter environment. If it is and you have holes in your hood you're allowing water to get in perhaps get in your alternator and freeze frozen water in an alternator can either cracked the case or burn your belt. That engine driven fan should pull enough air to blow everything out of the engine compartment in short order if it is not I would look at the foam surrounding the radiator to the radiator case make sure that that's all intact make sure that all your rubber dams are in place again if you don't have airflow through the radiator you're not gonna dissipate heat you need to pull the air through and down. When you are tracking long distance like you said what is your hydraulic oil temperature doing is it getting hotter than your engine coolant or is the coolant leading the way. Another thing to consider is what kind of material are you tracking through sand gravel dirt how tight are your tracks how good is your undercarriage do you have any siezed rollers, a lot of things to consider you have to look at the whole picture
^^^^^ Had an excavator that would do the same thing. Tried everything obvious and while searching for a part in the parts manual noticed that I was missing some gasket material around the radiator that was allowing some air to bypass the radiator. Installed the new material and problem solved.
Forgot to mention that, in my post, since it heats up on long runs, it very well could be a hyd cooler, collapsed hose, or similar...
Its a Marooka clone and I don't think it uses a Komatsu hydraulic system. I agree with the previous people about making sure all the cracks are sealed and air has to flow through the proper places before looking a making modifications to sheet metal and such. I seem to remember the engine and pump being lined up with the frames of the machine and the air flowing over the package helps to cool things down as well. Putting holes in the covers lets the air go a different direction and not provide any cooling it would get by flowing over all the parts. I believer there are a couple of people on here with direct knowledge of those machines and might provide some personal knowledge.
Got link to work. Ooh, ooh, I can answer this one. Maintaining an IC70 & an IC100, the answer is easy. Clean the cooling stack. And I don't mean a garden hose thru it assembled. Some of the places my coworkers take these are amazing. Thing I learned: Daylight the cooling stack, including pulling the condenser away, and, in extreme cases, removing the radiator. I've found that removing the bumper and stringing up the condenser, along with pulling the front skid plates, allow me to use a wide spray from a steam jenny to flush the fins in there. On average, it takes over 1/2 an hour to get clear water in the runoff. Remove the final drive motor access covers, dig out the heavy mud, then steam clean, followed by a liberal coating of your favorite left over paint, on ALL of the hydraulic hose ends. I have one with a Mitsubishi and one with an Isuzu engine. Both engines are solid fan drive (not variable), and the belts need checked periodically for tension. With the twin V-belts, they never appear to make noise. Engine off, turn fan by hand. It should not rotate at all. Fortunately, both of mine have adjuster jack screws to make that easier. Grease the equalizer pins on the tandem rollers every time it is used...every time. With the solid fan drive, a lot of dust is pulled thru continuously, especially since the engine is always wide open when travelling. And, submersion of the lower cooling stack into mud water is also very common, making any of the dry dust subject to clumping.
Thanks for the replies. Mine is the IC-45 with the Mitsubishi. It does have a cab but does not have factory AC. We added aftermarket AC and the condensor is mounted on the back of the cab and cooled by an electric fan. The radiator is frequently cleaned. Blown out daily and washed when back at the shop. I have had it since 2015 and have never had it in deep mud. I doubt it has even been in mud a foot deep. We mainly have it to traverse steep terrain. We grease the bottom roller pivots daily. Recently put new tracks, sprockets and top rollers. Everything rolls freely on the under carriage. No missing plastic or air guides around the radiator that I can see. It runs hot in any type of terrain on long distances. I can be going down a perfectly flat paved road and it will get hot. The machine doesn’t have a dump bed on it it has some equipment permanently mounted on the back and grosses about 19k. For giggles last time I had to track it far I opened the engine compartment and it seemed to help but the door flops around like crazy. It has no hydraulic cooler that I am aware of. I haven’t seen it if it has one. Another issue we have which I think is related to the heat is once it gets warm if you shut it off it won’t start again until it cools. It starts super easy if the engine is cool or moderately warm regardless of ambient temps but if it is shut off when the temp gauge is over 50% expect to sit thirty minutes before starting it again. We recently added the AC and replaced the fan belts when adding the compressor. The overheating issue seemed unchanged before and after the AC. Do t think I am getting any slippage but I will check. If I cut a hole in the lid I wasn’t planning on having the fans point straight up. I was thinking fabricate it such that there was an angled duct at a 45 and the fans were facing horizontal blowing air away from the cab and have the duct extend past the fans a bit so that rain wouldn’t fall directly in.
Oh, it has a cooler. #7 is the oil cooler, #3 is radiator. Again, if you haven't looked between the hydraulic cooler and the radiator, and verified cleanliness... An electric fan or holes in hood, or open hood, are just band aids. Do you own an infrared thermometer? Measure temp drop across radiator, with airflow restricted areas being hotter. I certainly don't mean to argue, but, I've been on the other side of the conversation. I'd air blow the radiator and be convinced it was clear. I've garden hose rinsed and been convinced that it was clear...and then I had to separate them, and found just the opposite. You didn't say how many hours on yours, but, mine are still under 1500 hours each.
Looking at the pic you uploaded gives me kittens. That stacked cooling package is a perfect design to accumulate trash in between the various modules. In some ways it’s similar to what’s found on a lot of 360 excavators. Also, are 31, 32, & 73 some kind of foam strips to direct the air flow where it’s supposed to go..?
Thanks again. We will pull it apart and do a detailed cleaning. Obviously I wasn’t doing a good enough job if I didn’t notice the cooler. Ours has right around 1600 hrs. It has always had this heating issue since we got it in 2015 (Used) so I just assumed it maybe was a design issue as it wasn’t meant to track far. When working it moving short distances starting and stopping even in 100 degree plus days it never gets warm. Long distances it does it every time even if it is cool outside.
Well we worked on it today. The hyd cooler is right in front of the radiator. Both appear clean on the upper 2/3 but the bottom 1/3 had some crud in it. There is foam sealing the bottom and sides but the top is open. Maybe 1” between the hyd cooler and radiator and maybe 6” between the top of both and the hood. We pulled the skid plate and final drive covers. Holy crap. We did it on the shop floor and so far we have chiseled three five gallon buckets of crud out of there. Pretty sure it was there prior to us getting the machine but there were rat nests under both final drive covers that seem to have been collapsed and packed with mud. We found butterfinger wrappers, straw, bailing twine, etc in them. I don’t have an infrared temp gun but I plan on thoroughly cleaning things and seeing what it does. I did try spinning the fan by hand and I can barely move it if I push as hard as I can. The belts feel tight and it surely isn’t easy to turn but it can be turned with enough force.
I would try to replace any foam surround that was damaged or compromised. Glad you found a "smoking gun" hopefully that cures what was ailing you. BTW, are your tracks adjusted properly? Too tight can cause high resistance leading to higher temps especially in high range .
Thanks. If anything the tracks are a little too loose. I need to adjust them.
The hydraulic cooler should be sealed to the radiator all around, but...if that missing seal were a major issue, the hydraulics would run hot, not the engine. That bottom 1/3 is most likely the issue, as that is exactly how mine have been. As for not owning an infrared thermometer, get one. If nothing else, you can use the laser pointer to entertain your cat. C'mon, they're down to $13 now. I paid $45 for mine.
I suggest to check out the diagram in post # 11. Can you locate all the parts in that diagram on your machine..? If not, you may well be missing some baffle material somewhere, they're usually the first to get lost or just not put back after a repair.
Never worked on one and not disagreeing with anything above and I know it's got low hours but I would do full Hyd. Service. return filters that are restricted will cause heat. And old oil can't transfer heat well enough to cool.
Great man you have a nice idea to keep the engine cool but i am wondering that why the manufacturer did not provide any cooling engine mechanism.
Is it back to normal?
Bueller? Bueller? Is it fixed? Just got a complaint on the AC performance in my IC-70. First, I'd like to slug the moron who put the 4th beauty cover bolt in the back. 2ndly, you have to remove said cover to access the AC filters. 3rdly, why did they even bother with filters? My filters are spotless, but the evaporator coil is dirt plugged, solid.
Thoroughly cleaning it definitely helped. Temps are lower for sure but it still runs hotter then normal on long track arounds. I am still debating cutting the hole and adding the fan. Last job it was 95-105 degrees. I could drive it a couple hundred feet, stop for a bit , move again, all day long and never get above the center of the temp gauge. Track a mile or two and it gets up near the redline.