The park brake switch on my hoe is giving me grief lately, to the point where I have to switch it on/off multiple times (some more then others) before it finely releases, is this common? Is it a easy fix? Or should I just by pass the @*%# thing....? It's slowing me down!! :Banghead:Banghead Thanks in advance for any/all suggestions!! -hoedugit
Start with the easy one - the switch. The contacts may be done after 17 years of dust and weather.
I agree with Deere John. If by switching it on and off that it will eventually work, you switch is likely not making contact. But beware if you test the switch with a multi meter it may test good but while not being able to carry current to handle the solenoid. A good way would be to swap the switch with at temporary jumper wire that you can connect from the seat. Good luck.
Been thru this before....... switch most likely. If that does not cure it replace the relay the switch feeds. Some testing with a mulitmeter will point you in the right direction.
There is no obvious problem at the switch....next???
its a switch, relay or wiring harness problem. Testing with a mulitmeter with lead you to the problem. If your not electrical savy you may not be able to trace this down on your own. did you test the switch with a multimeter? Do you have a wiring schematic of the parking brake circuit? Have you checked the relay?
I had the exact same problem with my '97 SE. My problem was the solenoid located on the transmission that activates the park lock. I would go there and check- that's my bet. Easy to check with a meter. Good Luck!
That makes it a lot easier to diagnose, To the OP, get down there by the solenoid and have someone try the switch. With a 12 volt test light, see if you have power at the solenoid. Ground the test light on the negative battery post and probe the positive post before you start any of this. If there's anything wrong with the test light, bad bulb, broken wire, corroded bulb socket, you won't have a clue what's wrong. Do the same if you use a meter. Don't ask me how I know.... You should also check the ground circuit while you're there. You can have power at the solenoid, but not a complete circuit if the solenoid isn't making good contact with the rest of the tractor. Quick way is to run a separate jumper from the solenoid body to the negative battery post. Work the switch, and see if you have power, remove the jumper, re- check. It's also a good idea to run a jumper from the ground clip on the test light to the negative battery terminal. You might ground your light on something that looks like a good ground, but isn't. Again, you get incorrect information if that's the case. I had a bunch of jumpers made from lamp cord. Nice and flexible, up to 25 feet long. You needed something that long to get back to the battery from the back of a rusty truck, when you were working on the tail lights. EVERY time I diagnosed electrical problems, first thing was to verify the test equipment was working. Talked to a guy at Home Depot that told me of doing some 120 volt repair work, meter said it was cold; it wasn't. He burned the jaws out of some sidehack wirecutters and soiled his underwear.
not sure if the D is same as the E but check out this post i give to this guy. maybe some of the components are the same.
Any update? What happened? I'd like to find out if I actually diagnosed one right for once! haha
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410e similar problem I have a 410e thatsuddenly activated the park brake in the field and would not release. I had to manually release brake with the two bolts to tow it home.In trying to solve this in the field the starter got burned out and now after putting in new batteries and starter the tractor starts but willnot move although it rolls easily when towed.Any thoughts?