Hello everyone. This is my first post here, hope I am doing it right. It seems there area a lot of well qualified members on this board, and I am hoping maybe someone can help me out. English is not my native language, but I hope I am able to make my self understood. I own an Pel Job EB12.4 1998 model. This model have a push button on one control arm to select wether the entire cabin moves around or if only the boom moved left - right. This push button activate a latching relay sending +12V to a solenoid. This solenoid is connected to a valve selecting if the hydraulics goes to the motor rotating the cabin or the piston moving the boom. My problem is this solenoid seems to be broken. There is no response when +12V goes thru it. My multi meter show 1023 ohm over it. This equals 0,14watt at +12v, so it is obvious it is not working any more. I've tried to ask Volvo (who bought pel job back in 1997-1998 or something, and are now responsible for parts. They say I must buy the entire valve with the solenoid, BUT the part is not in stock and will not be produced. They offered to try ordering it, maybe it is located at some smaller store some where in the world, but they can not tell me the price, and I can not return it. :beatsme I own this digger for general DIY purposes. The important thing for me is getting this thing working, not how it is achieved. The problem is, the arm will gradually move to the left when the digger is used, so I need some way of correcting it. I've found the valve and tried to wash off it, but this mix of mud and hydraulic oil won't let go all that easy. All help is highly appreciated, either how to get a new part, how to fix the old one, how to rebuild into a manually operated one etc. Please help! I'll try to attach some pictures. Three of them showing the solenoid, two showing the valve.
I've found a work around that will work for now, but I am still interrested in tips on how to make the original function work. the workaround was to connect the boom swing cylinder to the spare valve meant for extra equippment (breaker etc). Mine does not have the pipings for this, but the valve was there, unused. Originally, the pump used for doser blade and swing delivers 6 liter / min. Now the boom swing will have up to 32 liters / min with both the bigger pumps combined. This gives great speed and zero accuracy
solenoid hi frodes ,that looks very similar to the F/R solenoids on a ** 50 H i recently got two in the uk for £55 i only needed one and still have a new one some where i suggest you take it off and look for a part no http://www.hy-power.com/browprods.a...S&pg=man&offset=10&pid=29736&oid=10559&sro=10
Sorry to hear that you are having troubles with your recent purchase. You could try to find a company who deal in selling parts from beyond repair machies - e.g get a the part from a non running EB12.4 for your machine. (peljob also made a 'sirius' model which was an upgrade of the EB12.4 so the solenoid from this machine might work, they made a 'sirius plus' model aswell which had servo controls but still uses a button to activate the boom ofset so the solenoid from this machine may be the same as what is on yours??) As far as your hyperactive offset function!! all I can suggest is you turn the revs right down when using this function (you probably have worked that one out already!!) I would recommend fitting a new hour meter so you can service the machine as and when required. I take it you have changed all the filters and serviced the engine e.t.c? Keep us posted.
Hi frodes, Yes you could pipe direct to the breaker circuit (good thinking) and i know what your saying about being to fast! A few things you could do! *1. if you could find a local hydraulic shop they should be able to supply flow restrickers that srew in between the hydraulic lines witch will slow down the flow slowing down the ram! *2. you could also swap the hyd lines from the blade to the swing ram, this would leave your blade fast but your arm slower, worth a try even just to see if the blade is then to fast to work! also you could buy a new divirter valve (again a local hydraulic shop could advice you on this) would be alot cheaper than volvo!
found it just found the spare one i have ,i can give you some measurements if you reqiure :drinkup graham
Great Find Graham, had a quick look on there site and will be giving them a call tomorrow:thumbsup
Remove the coil and measure the dimensions, hole and lenght. There are standard dimesnions and it most likely will match one, new coils can be bought new for a couple of 100 "kroner" www.oie.se or http://www.hydroscand.no/web/Hjem.aspx should have for instance.
Hello, and thanks for all the answers! This is just awsome! :notworthy That blue solenoid looks very mouch like the one I already have. It's nice if you can measure it and tell me the dimentions. I see it is rated 30W, = 2,5A. Is that enough? I've been having trouble with mine shorting the fuses some times, but its always been working when I've got around to look at it. I did measure it once, and it drew 9,5A. There was a 10A fuse in the fuse box, but in the manual, it says 5A. Can it be that mine have been drawing more and more power until it eventually died out? The machine is working now, allowing me to hopefully finish the work I have left. It is autum here now, and in a months time it might start to snow. Hopefully I can use some time during the winter to have this thing repaired the way it is supposed to be. I also have a small leak in one of the valves that will need to be fixed, and for that I will have to take out all of the valves I am not a company, just a private person who think it is a waste of money to hire a digger when I could buy one in England and take it home Attached is some pictures of the work I am doing with it right now. The yellow house is mine. The red one is the neighbor. I am digging right thru her lawn to put down a new sewer, and trying to dig a drainage around my house. The mini dumper is also bought in England. A brilliant machine. This summer, I've dug out approx 45 tons of soil from the basement and drove it out with the dumper.
Looking good!! Machine looks in good condition for nearly 5000 hours work.
Thank you It is able to do good work, but I have some issues with it that I will hopefully be able to adress at a later time. I've used it 3 hrs today with no trouble. After "fixing" the hydraulics, done a round with the grease gun, given it 10 litres of fresh hydraulic oil and half a litre of engine oil, it ran for 20 minutes before it ran out of diesel :beatsme I will buy a new hr-meter, but I try to maintain it as good as I can. It usually run 1 hr each 2 liters of diesel, so when the tank run out, it's greased and oil level checked. I must say I was surprised with this little machine today. I found some really big rocks that i was able to move with it. The picture really dosn't show the size of if. The "small" ones were too big to fit in the bucket.
Those peljobs were pretty much the top machine of their time, hence yours is still running at its age even if it has been neglected. I guess your fuel gauge has given up then!! Have you cleaned the air filter? - that may reduce fuel consumption. Is the engine still smoking or has a good bit of hard work cleared it out!!??
When I got it, it had no air filter I fitted a new one, but it clogged, so I have ordered a new one, and is currently running without one. I know this is not good, but it is very moist and no dust at all here now. I hope the new one arrives soon, so I can install it. The engine seems very worn. It smokes a lot, and it is hard to start when cold. It dosn't help that 1 glow plug is 24V . The glow relay was not working, so the previous owner had "fixed" it by using a lamp switch, a 0,75mm2 cable and twisting it onto the glow plugs. The only problem was the power cable to the relay was rusted. Volvo wants $200 for a new glow plug :-( . They want the same prize for a injection nozzle. Engine uses approx 1 liter oil for every 40 liters of diesel. I would like to take the engine apart and renew "everything", but the prizes for parts are insane. I might be better off buying a used engine and changing the entire thing. Engine seems a little down on power. There are 3 pumps driven by the engine, 1 is 6liters / 130 bar and 2 are 18 liters / 160 bar each. If both the big pumps are working hard, the engine stalls. A little more power wouldn't hurt now that I am digging thru quite hard clay. If anyone can advice me where I can buy engine parts and other parts for the digger at a descent price, please do. Fuel gauge have given up, that is right. It was at 3/4 all the time. I unplugged the cables, and now it is at 1/4 all the time. I had a problem with the fuel filters clogging up all the time, so I took out the tank and washed it with the high pressure washer inside. Running out of fuel is no problem on this one. Just fill some fuel on it and start like normal.
Has the digging bucket got teeth on it, if so are they worn? sharper teeth will be a easy/cheap way of making the machine more productive. As far as parts go I believe the engine in that machine is a mitsubishi so can you go direct to them or a dealer e.g. bypass volvo. Would it be cost effective to get a load of parts sent over from the UK?
Shipping from the .UK is no problem. I bought the mini dumper in England and had it shipped over. I have no teeth on the bucket, but I have sharpened the bucket it self with the angle grinder. We tried a 1,8 ton on the clay, but mine worked better. There are some places where the clay is extremely hard. I've dug out 30 m3 from the basement, and half of it was to hard to dig out with a spade. I had to use a knocking machine to loosen it up before I was able to shovel it up into the dumper. The engine is a Mitsubishi L3E 0,95 litres. I think is rated at 11 kw. There is a screw adjusting the idle speed. On this screw, there are nothing more to adjust.
Would be nice if you give me the measures for this thing. Do you know what is supposed to be inside it? I got a tip on another forum to unscrew the thing at the back of the valve and remove whatever is inside. If I renew this one and replace it, the thing would work again ?
if you undo the plastic "nut" at the back ,it then slides off the shaft ,the one i changed had rusted on due to it working in salt and needed a bit of persuasion the measurements are 60 mm long 46mm wide 50mm high 13 mm diameter hole all taken at widest points cheers graham
Intereasting thread... If the new coil wont work the spool id be going to your local hydraulic shop for the new diverter because the money that double diverter is going to cost of volvo would be scarry id say. Fitted one of these to a hookloader awhile back and cant remember it being to dear. Your bigest problem might be access by the looks of it. As for the digging power even if you only weld 3 bits of flat bar on as teeth you wont get over the difference. Trying to pull a straight cutting edge through clay is really heavy going.
I would recommend getting some teeth on the bucket or a new bucket, even a 12 inch with teeth would probably be quicker than using your current bucket - it may be smaller but the narrower width will increase the breakout force being passed from the dipper to the ground therefore making it easier for the bucket to dig the clay and reduce the strain on the engine.
If i take away enough pipes, I think access will be fine. It dosn't seem too difficult, just some work. Is "double diverter" the right word for this valve thing? What about the thing to unscrew from the back side of the valve? Can I take out the center, will that be the part I need to change? Cutting thru the clays is going well. I've sharpened the bucket some, that really helped. I have a smaller bucket with theeth, but I don't think it is working any better. The teeth makes tracks in the clay, but the rest of the bucket still have to cut thru.
You could price the solenoid from dealer anyway but a new diverter is only small money and a quick fix over the counter. Just my two cent
"diverter" is the entire thing with 2 hoses in and 4 hoses out? (and an electrical connection) ? What kind of money are we talking about?
Spot on... You should have change out of 200euro
In hydraulic terminlogy, what you're describing would most likely be called a "six way solenoid directional valve".
Thank you both! Hope you stand my dumb questions. There are more where they come from €200 still is a lot of money if all I need is the little blue thing pictured earlier in this thread.
Hi frodes, you posted earlier how many amps the solenoid coil was pulling, sounds to me the coil is simply fried. If somehow you could simply locate a replacement coil, your world may be restored to normal for very little money as the valve itself may very well be good. It's the magnetic coil that is bad. If there is any way you could remove that coil and get a brand name off of it and maybe some numbers, it would greatly help in your quest to find a replacement.
Thank you. This is what I am hoping for. As you say, the valve it self seems to be working fine. Frankly, I have a good impression of the hydraulics on this little french thing. The electrics and how they try to prevent corrosion on the other hand.. :Banghead . Will the coil be the thing I can pick out when unscrewing the screw, or is it the entire grey thing you can see on my pictures? the blue one, pictured earlier in this thread, is that the coil, or does the coil go into it? I will have to get back to this at a later point. Right now, the machine works with my workaround, but I am hoping to be able to sort it out when my projects for this autumn is finished.
That blue thing posted by d4c24a is the magnetic coil for the hyd solenoid valve. It's held in place by a nut on the end of the valve actuator spool. Remove the nut and the coil will slip off the spool. Well, in a perfect world it does. Many times when a magnetic coil shorts out inside, it causes it to swell up a bit and sometimes even melt. I've had to really work to get some failed coils off of the actuator spool.
Thanks. I suppose taking the entire valve out of the machine and introduce it for a little violence would get it off When I talked to Volvo, they told me this coil was not sold separately, I had to buy the entire valve.
Most likely, Volvo doesn't sell the coil seperate. Remember, a big part of income for equipment is not in the sale of machines, but in the sale of repair parts, less money to be made simply selling a coil, and less parts to have to inventory. What others are telling you in this thread is the valve/coil combo is not made by Volvo, they're made by some component manufacturer, such as Vickers, Rexroth, Hydroforce, Delta, on and on and on. If you could get a name and maybe some numbers off that coil, your life may become much less expensive than going through Volvo.
peljob eb 12 Hi Just purchased what I think is a peljob eb 12 or 12.4 no plate on the machine and has the same fault as above so all above comments very helpful. How do I tell the differance between a 12 and a 12.4 and where can I get any manuals or parts books from. Also where is the solenoid valve located. She is an old girl but I hope to bring her back to life with a bit of TLC. Thanks Mike.
I don't think there is any 12 , only 12.4. Post some pictures of it! If you remove the seat "box", you'll see the valve easily underneath, if it is the same as I have. There are different setups on this machine depending on the kind of control arms you have. Mine have all the valves in the floor, but some earlier models have them in an uprised postion right underneath the control arms. Servo controls are probably also different. Send me your e-mail, I have some manuals.
Thanks for speedy reply. My controls are raised with the vales on the front at floor level. Here is my email [email protected]
This is the valves on mine as it looked when I got the machine : http://www.ascona.no/eb12-4/feil/images/DSC_0583.JPG I will send you the manuals on e-mail.
Hi frodes any chance you could email me the manuals for the pel job. having a few problems with my old girl. my engine is also burning oil and knocks a bit, i have given it a flush with paraffin. its loads better and the oil pressure light has gone off. have been looking for a secondhand engine but like rocking horse. also got a price for engine parts from diamond diesel in the uk will mail you the price if you send me your email. my email for the manuals if you get chance [email protected] THANKS IN ADVANCE NEIL.
QUOTATION & AVAILABILITY F.A.O. THIS QUOTE DOES NOT INCLUDE CARRIAGE & VAT. IF PARTS ARE REQUIRED PLEASE PLACE ORDER. PAYMENT FOR NON ACCOUNT CUSTOMERS ARE ON A PRO FORMA INVOICE BASIS. ALL DATES ARE FROM RECEIPT OF CHEQUE / CREDIT CARD PAYMENT ENGINE TYPE: L3C SERIAL NO: USE: QU PART NO DESCRIPTION UNIT PRICE UK STOCK EURO STOCK 1 MM433712 PISTON RING STD EA PISTON £68.37 14 1 30L1902010 BIG END STD EA PISTON £23.37 8 1 MD008883 FRONT OIL SEAL £4.54 5 1 MD016317 REAR OIL SEAL £20.06 5 1 30L9406021 FULL ENGINE GASKET SET £177.87 0 1 1 MM438799 MAIN BEARING ENGINE SET £57.53 2 EURO STOCK 6-10 DAYS STANDARD (NO EXTRA COST) OR 2/3 DAYS @ DHL COST Best regards. Ian Stamp
What are you going to do then? rebuild or run it as is??
The defective valve? Probably rebuid or change the entire valve. Not, it is winter and temperatures have been around -10 - -20C the past weeks (-4 - +14F) so the digger have had new coolant filled on it and is now resting.
Cracy prices. This takes me more than half way to the "new" engine that is on its way (see other thread)
many thanks for the manual run out of ink half way through the print out. just to pick your brains have you any idea what the maual means by fill the track carrier with 80w-90, have had a look today and cant see any fill plugs. THANKS AGAIN NEIL.
Hello again. I am bringing this tread up again, as spring is here, and working on the digger is now a little more convenient. The "thing" i need have 2 + 4 hydraulic connectors. Is there any reason why I can not use 2 X 1 + 2 , like THIS ONE ? I don't know if the size of this one is correct. Suppose not. Any help finding a new walve (or 2) will be appreciated. I will try to remove the old one, but it is not easy.
Yes, you could probably rig the circuits to work using two of those 3-way valves like you found on Ebay. But keep in mind, with that particular solenoid valve, it say the ports are 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread), which may be smaller than the valve on your machine. If they are smaller, it will slow down the operation of the house swing and boom left/right swing and can cause excessive heat as well. Second, do you have room to fit two solenoid valves in there? That's a small machine, and there's not a lot of extra space anywhere on that machine. And what about relief valves? Does you original solenoid valve have any relief valve cartridges on it? Also, you may have difficulty finding elbow or straight fittings that will adapt from 1/4" NPT to the piping connections you currently have, which looks like they might be inverted flare pipe connections to elbow fittings. Can't tell for sure though by just looking at the pics in the first post of thread.
Thanks. I am not sure of the dimentions, so as I said, I suppose the one I found on ebay is wrong. It was just the first I found. You are right there are not mouch space any where on this machine, but I think fitting two valves like that will work fine. I am lucky enough to have a store nearby that make hoses for me just the way I want them, at a reasonable price. They made two new hoses for me so I was able to fit the boom swing to the breaker circuit. If my memory is correct, most hoses are tighten with a 17mm nut, but the valves for the breaker needed 19mm. I will address the sizes later, right now I am in the middle of fitting a new engine.
Forgot about the relief valves. What is that? Valves that release if the pressure is too high? If yes, those are present in the main valve block.
Yes, relief valves release pressure if it gets too high, such as when a cylinder bottoms out. They are typically in the main control valve, but you can't tell in the pics just what components are on the existing diverter valve, just wanted to make sure something wasn't overlooked. As for the sizing, again, I can't tell by looking at the pics how large/small your existing valve porting is. I'm only saying, whatever valve you use to replace the existing valve, it's not desirable to use a valve that has smaller porting than existing valve. Smaller porting can cause the function operation to be slower.
I think this is the type solenoid valve you are looking for frodes. http://www.hydraforce.com/Solenoid/Sol_html/1-620-1_SV12-60/1-620-1_SV12-60.htm
Seems right. How mouch shuld I excpect to pay for such a valve? I am hoping to pull the old one and have a better look at it. Hopefully, it can be repaired.
I don't know what the cost of that valve would be. Hydroforce is an American valve builder, they build many valves for OEM machine builders and they're typically not cheap valves. You have to purchase their valves from a distributor and I'm not sure what their global spread is. I would think there would be a Euro manufacturer of that type valve that you could get closer to you.
http://www.oeparts.se/Produkter?id=1010682 Diverter valves, the smallest one is 1/4" , these are very common and can be found at www.hydroscand.no for example. the one you linked to on ebay is a pneumatic valve and not for hydraulics.
Pneumatic probably won't work The 1/4 inch will be around NOK 2000 / $350. A little more than I am hoping for, but still worth it to make the machine function properly.
I finally got the !)#"%/=(/! valve out. Luckily, I had no problems removing the hoses. There was some plastic looking thing surrounding the rear end of the valve, but that came loose as soon as I hammered a little. Does this make any sense? Can i remove the "cylinder" on the rear side and replace it with the blue "thing" mentioned on page 1 in this tread?
yes mate ,it should come off with a small amount of persuasion ,with a medium sized persuader
Suppose you are talking about the rear cylinder? How to persuade it? I tried to unscrew the screw on the rear end (left on picture #2), but no luck. What is it for? I've cleaned the valve as good as possible without using water. I hope this can be fixed, so I don't want to fill it with water. Is the "blue thing" what I need to fix the valve?
frodes you need to hold the valve body in a vice ,with care not to damage it ,then with a hammer and chisel /drift you should be able to gently hammer it off taking care not to damage the shaft underneath ,the shiniest bit on the body in your picture, this does not move , the one i changed on a ** loader took some getting off as it had been used to load salt and had lots of corrosion and need quite a bit of cleaning up before the new one would slide on nicely cheers graham
Id say its the coil thats the problem, if you have a hydraulic shop near you id let them see it! The nut on the bottom is for removing the spool itself!
The spool is the "piston" moving inside, and the coil is within the cylinder, making the spool move when current is applied? Working kind of opposite from a speaker? I'll try dismantle the cylinder from the valve body tomorrow to see what I find. I really appreciate all help. This is something I've never worked on before. Sorry for all dumb questions
You have the idea now Frodes, and asking questions is how we all learn, so ive been told!
Hi frodes, that black plastic thing that cps circled in red is a magnetic coil. It simply slips over the center sleeve and a plastic nut (which now fell apart) is what holds the magnetic coil onto the sleeve. Inside the sleeve is an actuator spool. When you power up the mag coil, the magnetic energy shifts the actuator spool causing it to shift into and react against the hydraulic valve spool inside the valve body causing it to shift. There is most likely a spring behind the plug on the opposite end of the valve. Like I said, that mag coil originally simply slips onto the sleeve, but from the looks of that valve, I will bet you it's stuck like chuck. It wouldn't surprise me if you end up destroying that mag coil getting it off of the sleeve, but it' entirely possible your trouble is simply the mag coil, and if you can locate a replacement coil, it just might get the valve operational again.
Thanks. Will this thing : http://www.hy-power.com/browprods.a...S&pg=man&offset=10&pid=29736&oid=10559&sro=10 , posted by d4c24a , on page1 work?
measure the diameter of the shaft that the coil sits on when you've removed the old one, there are a few different sizes used and you need the correct one. If you clamp the valve in a vise then try to rotate the coil back and forth and it most likely will let loose eventually, I wouldn't hammer on it, it's easy to dent or bend the shaft .
Thanks. I finally got removed the last snow on the porch today, and found my long lost pipe wrench. I still need a vice, but I've never had one, so there is probably none under the rest of the snow. My parents have one, so I'll try dismantle it during the weekend.
Now that's a witty sense of humor. Bah ha ha ha
No vice under the snow, but I found one in my parents garage. Thingy accually came off very easy.
the one i have is 60 mm long , 45 mm wide , 50mm tall and the hole diameter is 24mm have you tried the company in the UK ,no numbers on the solenoid i take it cheers graham
I'll keep my fingers crossed. After 20+ phonecalls today, I finally found some one who knew what he was talking about. A German I think, no surprise He did find a coil that we hope will fit. Inner diameter is correct, but the overall length is approx 5 millimeters too short. He was confident it would work, but if not, I can return it and buy the complete valve. Coil was only $82 / £50 , and complete valve was $357 / £219. I was expecting worse. Hopefully, I can assemble the hydraulics and the engine during the week end. Unfortunately, I have a business trip the rest of this week. Can't wait to see if the thing will fit and work.
Hey frodes. Could you give me this persons name, business name, and some contact numbers please. It is very hard here in canada to find anyone that knows anything about PEL JOB. I do not mined getting things shipped over. The Volvo dealers that i have tried to deal with here are not very helpful. They are usually young people behind the counter and it seems if they run into something a little different they just say, cant get it or cant find it. ( heaven forbid they do a little work for there money).
:-( Coil was not able to flip the valve. I can feel something is moving, but not enough. I'll take it to the company where I bought it today, and see if we can find a working coil. If not, I'll buy the entire valve. Hoping to get it up and running today or tomorrow.
I got the new valve today. Total price ended around $360. That is "enough", but not as mouch as I feared. IT WORKS The new engine was started yesterday, and now the digger is digging. Still a lot of work to do, but now it works! The rest is just about tidying up.
Hello Frodes Where did you find the complete valve which solved your problem? I have the same trouble with my EB12.4
Hello. I bought it from Egil Eng & Co in Oslo, Norway. Price was around NOK 1500 + VAT (25% in Norway). Phone : +47 22 90 05 60 . The valve is not the exact same as the original. Persuading the hydraulic lines to a new position took some effort, but I got it sorted. Intake is on the left side, and all outputs are on the right side. The original one have intake on the top, and outputs on each side. This is the only picture I have : . The input hoses and those going to the motor had to be adjusted a little to fit the new position. This can easily be done with a pipe wrench. New hoses might make things easier, but it was doable with the old ones after a little adjusting.
EB12.4 electrical problem Many thanks, Frodes. Pretty stiff price, as you said, but at least there's an answer available.
I must admit, I don't think the price is unreasonable. It is 30% less than volvo wanted for 1 diesel injector. And, the folks at Egil Eng was very helpfull. Before I left, they had put the nippels from my old valve on the new one. I also got the new seals for free.
Hi Frodes, and anyone else who can help: You may remember I had the same problem as you with the offset diverter valve on my Peljob EB12.4. I managed to locate a new solenoid kit for about £120 including VAT - I believe it came from Ghent in Belgium. I now have to fit it. I should explain I'm useless with machinery and know nothing about hydraulics. I managed to get the seat "box" out, with some difficulty - it's an old machine - but the access is still poor. I notice you took the whole valve out to work on it. Here's the first dumb question: if I do the same, when I disconnect the hoses, will I get 40 litres of hydraulic fluid all over the ground? The valve is below the level of the main tank. Alternatively, could I replace the solenoid with the body of the valve in situ? I think there's just about enough space to align the piston, if I heave the hoses out of the way. Next, the kit includes a coil spring, and I notice that on the diagram in the manual (which is not very helpful!) there is a spring at the opposite end of the valve. Do I need to replace it with the new one, and if so, how do I get to it? I'm wondering, also, what keeps the solenoid in place? There doesn't seem to be anything to stop it just falling off. Finally (but I'll probably be back with more dumb queries when I start the job) there are two O-rings in the kit - a fat one and a thin one. They both seem too large in overall diameter to fit anywhere I can see. Am I missing something?
I'll try to answer as good as I can from my experience. I am no trained mechanic. The access is very poor, and there are lots of hydraulic hoses that don't want to be told where to go. There was almost no hydraulic spilling when I disconnected the hoses. From what I can remember, I would say a definite NO. Thre was almost no space to work on it at all when it sat in the machine. I don't think you have to open that mouch. Friction keeps it in place. Don't worry, it won't come off. I don't know. When I tried the new solenoid (that didn't work), it was only the solenoid, no springs, no o-rings, no nothing.
Frodes, thank you once again. I'll tackle it again, but not till next week now - busy weekend.
Hi Folks, my first post here, I Just bought my first digger, its a Pel Job EB12. Does anyone know if/where I can download a user and also a service manual? There a couple for sale on Flea bay, but £30 for a photocopied manual? £60 for the 2.. Theres something not right about paying that kind of money for a feint photocopy!! anyone have a pdf or can point me in the right direction??? Cheers scuse the Hi-Jack (new poster rules)
Hi, I have a semi melted Pel Job eb12.4 engine harness. Although I can work out the engine side of issues the control box is a mess and needs sorting correctly. Does anyone have a drawing or picture of the box internals, ideally a wiring diagram would be perfect. I see frobes has mentioned he has one in PDF format but I cannot send him a message, presumably as I'm a new member. Thanks
Electrical problem- My Pel-Job EB12.4 starting behaving strangely! First the engine spluttered at stopped. I turned the ignition key and it started again but would not turn off with the key and the hydraulics on the joystick controls stopped working. Any suggestions?
Hi, Did you find a service manual? My Pel-Job EB12.4 starting behaving strangely! First the engine spluttered at stopped. I turned the ignition key and it started again but would not turn off with the key and the hydraulics on the joystick controls stopped working. Any suggestions? John
Hi John I have the exact same happen to my peljob what did you do to sort it thank Tim.
Hi John did you sort the problem
Hi Guys, New to this site. As in the first post, the same machine but not sure of year. The cab had glass, heater and radio if that's any help. The boom button rotted because of wet. I put a new switch in and worked fine for years. Now the boom ram does nothing. I assume that it's the solenoid or power to it. Only problem is, I can't find it. I've looked under the seat and even pulled the deck plate out, cleaned all the mud out and removed all the mice nests. I've had this for about 16 years with very little problem. Everything else on the hydraulics works fine. Any help in locating this solenoid would be greatly appreciated.