I have a early model SL series 1 580 w/cab and air,4WD,4 in 1 bucket.I only use it on the farm 100 hrs. or so a year.It has 6,100 hrs. on it and has been maintainted well.The Cummins engine uses no oil and runs like a top.It started leaking some oil a while back and today i pressure washed the engine to find the leak.I believe i have 2 leaks the one i found today was a seep of oil between the head and block on right side about midway on block.I ran it a couple of hrs. and looked again and there was some oil on top of head around valve covers.Please do not tell me i have a leak on top making me think that's where the oil is coming from and not between block and head because i had it clean and i seen it actually bubling there.Until i find the top leak i am troubled about this one.How bad does this sound?My water pump is also seeping out of hole under it.I also have a serpintine belt problem it keeps skipping a grove and moving towards the engine.I have been told i need a new tensioner to correct this problem.Where is the best place to purchase a water pump and tensioner?Please Help!!
For the water pump and tensioner you can grab your ankles and head into Case or Cummins. Fix the easy leak first and run it to see how much oil is leaking from the head gasket or if it is really coolant leaking at the head but by all means don't let the water pump and belt problem go till ya over heat the thing and have to buy a new head when you change out the gasket.
I agree with D9 on this one, by all means change out the tensioner and belt if it has worn off any grooves. WE sell a tightener with each belt we sell. Also the earlier tensioners were.. a bit thinner where the bolt goes though and new tensioners require a bit longer bolt. Maybe yours is late enough but for the price of a bolt you can't drive to far, take one along. The valve cover gaskets at that many hours are probably relaxed and seeping causing the oily mess on top. You can change them out in an hour, clean down the engine thorougly, get b/p cleaner and a good blow gun, clean down as much as possible then remove covers and finish cleaning, put new seals on the bolts and gaskets on the covers and draw down till they are tight. Anti freeze leakage on the right side of the engine is not unheard of, but oil leakage is rarely a problem but not impossible. If you decide to change the gasket, it is a straight forward job, not complex, the only thing about the engine that is different than years ago is the torque angle method of tightening the head down. Get the procedure from your dealer unless you have service manuals for that engine. Mel. Ps, get head checked for flatness and if planing is necessary tell your parts man, it may require a different gasket depending on how much was removed
I had the same belt problem with my L put new belt and tentioner on it got it from case . A big pain to put a new belt on ,tentioner was the easier of the two.
I heard of guys zip tieing a spare belt on cause yes its a real pain to put a new belt on.
I bought an old 580CK that had an extra belt tie-strapped on it. Phil
The only problem I see with that is the ageing of the rubber you buy them the same time they get the hot/ cold temp changes are summited bascily to the same enviorment but with out the tention on it. Just to asked a stupid question how much longer will the spare belt last?
Guess that depends on how long it will take you to finish the job you're on and go for parts. Fan belts, especially the serpentine belts, when they get replaced the old one gets tucked in somewhere. Behind the seat, corner of the trunk, toolbox, someplace. Murphy likes to visit, and if you have one, you may never need it. However, if you don't have one and it lets go, well, you're done until you get one, aren't you?
Good point Greywynd, A lot of us out of habit save the old belt somewhere. Old timers are notorious for that because they lived through such tough times. I'm not that old yet . I've thrown out a ton of stuff my dad and my grandpa saved. I remember bolts especially...mostly grade 3 and all had something wrong with them. All belts got saved back then, I remember a D8 2U connecting rod that was bent, hung up on the shop wall for years. However the 1958 International calender I kept, has a great picture on it, glad he didn't throw that out. Phil
This is the reasoning behind the zip tied extra belt. You hit the nail on the head.
Thanks for all the replies.It is definately oil leaking between head and block on right side not anti-freeze.I found the tensioner for $85, waterpump $65at Tractorstuff.com.Do you think the quality of these would be as good as genuine CASE parts?
http://www.e-backhoeparts.com New link for tractorparts.net We sell/use aftermarket tensioners and water pumps. While we have had a few premature failures the majority function just fine with good reliability. Elast:canada