Hello folks I have got around to stripping my final drive down on my D7 17A what I wasnt expecting was to find not only broken teeth which I knew about but the dead shaft has snapped like a twig just behind the taper I will try to post photos later today but man what a kick in the guts to find that The only good thing is that I do have a good spare dead shaft here but does anyone have any clues on how to extract the broken end? or do I part the old girl out Thanks as always
Photos attached Dont ask what I hit or did because I honestly cant ell you
You have to loosed the nut from the shaht under housing but removed the lock snap ring on before and loosed the 4 bolts from diagonal brase cap and and try to weld a piece were the shaft is brooken for puling.
Thanks for that Thats what I was thinking has to happen
Pull the track frame off and (carefully) attack the remains of the dead shaft from the outside with a oxy-lance.? It won't last long if it is turned into liquid through the centre, and when the shaft cools it should shrink on the outside diameter by sufficient to be tapped out without the need for a puller of any kind.
Hi LG 78 ,the best thing for the broken axle is ,you can drill a hole behind axle and tap a pipe threaded hole for a grease fitting for it ,install grease fitting ,loosen axle nut 1/4 and pump the grease fitting till she lets go. An old Alberta trick from my Cat day's
Hope this helps
If only tctractors was closer to you. He has reached guru status with final drives and the aura he emits around final drives would mean that broken off stub would just fall out on it's own and prostrate itself onto the ground in respect rather then risk angering the Guru.
I think that will probably come out pretty easy the part that makes it tight is already out (the taper)
A little hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like the brake is past the taper section (to the inside) If that is the case taping the void beyond the shaft and using the grease gun method has a good chance of dislodging the stump after unscrewing the retainer nut with the lock ring removed. Next question is the taper section damaged to where a new shaft won't hold.
Love it
Thanks as always Old Magnet yes its the entire taper thats broken off luckily the housing still looks in good order as I only limbed it 300 yards back to the workshop after the break
I will try this first thanks a million
The grease pushing method was used if there was a lack of tools in field.The end of the axle should be in a blind hole so that when you drill into the rear of it the grease pushes it out.With the taper broken off it should be easy to press it out as it usually takes about 100 ton pressure to release it in normal circumstances.Good luck
When the new axle is installed it needs to meet these dimensions......Hard to believe the taper hole would not be wallowed out as the old one would have to be a flex break as there is virtually no torsional load applied.
It may have broken from fatigue due to it's age ,or as AG78 said there was broken teeth,which would have put a lot of stress on the axle ,especially when moving damaged.I wonder how the bearings were,also the tension the bearing.Going to need a press to seat the new axle in. cheers
That stump will come out with an amount of effort put in to it, you can undo the C spanner nut after the peg is removed and clean up the threads it runs on so the nut will run easy, then make up a U shaped spacer and use the nut to turn the the stump out, a wedge is a handy item also you can put up to 10 ton force between the dead shaft ends, so pushing off the opposite shaft, all things failing to shift you can pull the other dead shaft and stuff a long bar through to hammer things to a good end, Merv Pepper style.
I think on the 17A the Dead Shaft is hammer blow fit with the keyway at 12 o clock, always make sure you have the C spanner nut and wire clip in the correct place, when fitted you drill and peg the shaft through the existing hole in the nut that has the wire clip retainer.
Thanks tc looks like a wey weekend coming here in NZ so so me quality time in the shed is not far away
Not sure what is on the opposite side in that picture of the assembly. Looks like it could be pushed with a small porta power jack from the inside? Isn't that a nut towards the center of the frame between numbers 13 and 14?
I am not sure but should have only 1 or 2 inchs between the 2 end shaft
Nah , the end of the shaft sits in the housing , that is the nut between 13 and 14 though
And since its junk and broke cut the end off after the nut, and jack it. As it looks like the end after the nut extends into some housing? Don't know never saw one.
Seems about time to bring some old school repair info.....pretty sure that axle would be suffering from a wallowed out taper.
Cheers for that OM will look very closely into it Mean while I have managed to get it to move wit the grease gun method I have to buy a new gun to complete the task as it took every ounce of strength and an extension on the grease gun but it moved half an inch with a great sounding bang
You need a gun that at least makes 10,000psi, not the common garden variety that might make 6,000 psi, or better yet if you could borrow at 15,000 psi unit which are out of sight expensive.
Hi LG, I,m up in Pukekohe NZ, I've got a couple of D717a,s so am interested in how you got on with yours, and whether you have a parts donor machine?
Bit time poor at the moment I shifted the shaft about 40mm with the grease gun before the grease started to escape around the edge of the cup but it did the job It has moved the shaft out enough to now weld threaded bar onto the end and pull it out I do have a few parts here from a donor machine that I wrecked (a good dead shaft for one thankfully) I sold a CCU up your way a couple of months ago Was that to you? Im in Te Awamutu 021445853 if interested
LG good to hear your still having a go, the grease idea sounds pretty good, i dont know about the ccu, not me, i will give you a bell. Murray Wymer 0274380269 i posted a bit on youtube under wymerfarms, cheers
Interesting thread, decades ago a contractor with a fully rebuilt D7 17A lost a "X shaft" building roads in a remote neighbouring property. To recover it, a 4wd truck was brought in to pull the broken side [whilst the other track drove] to try and keep it vaguely 'on track' which was the problem. Eventually it was at the public road and low loader to haul it away for repair, when I would post some images but being 'younger' I didn't have a camera in 'those days'.
Hi LG78 assume you got terrible cat out to pull sprocket; and later on push it back on ? Or did you know someone else in waikato with the puller gear ? Cheers Merv
Hi Merv yes had to get them out to split track and pull sproket much easier with the correct tooling Have to pay up front these days for one off jobs he was a good bloke but turned up with out a functional gas axe which pissed me off for the price I had to pay
thought I'd check on how you made out with the axle.Glad it worked out. We used to do this in the field in Alberta.. Cheers from Canada
Well sadly this shaft is fighting me for every mm of movement I have been extremely time poor running the farm etc but long story short, I moved it about 45mm with the grease gun then welded a nut onto the end of the shaft and made up a puller So far I have put 86kg bouncing on a 6ft bar and cant get it to budge any further Not completely out of ideas yet but im unsure as to why it wont just pull out Cheers for checking in
And its out Will try to up load a clip of the oxy lance at work, man that thing was incredible but you need a very capable and experienced person on the end of it. One slip and she would have been scrap
Sorry have to make do with some screen shots Now the rebuild...
Glad you got it out finally. Where do I collect my prize for winning the sweepstakes of how to get it out.?
Good to see it out LG So basically that thermal lance bored a hole about 3" deep into it ? and U then welded that threaded bar into it and pulled it out with the nut and a spacer
Hey Merv We went through to about an inch and a half to the end of the shaft first. bored about a half inch hole Let things cool down then had a go with the make shift puller with zero luck So then we really got stuck in and gutted it as much as we dared without destroying the hub then yes left enough good stuff to weld another nut on and pulled it out