So have a decent JD Loader and below 20F it seems quite appreciative of a snort of ether in the outer air intake. There seems to be an ether start button on the console but all the underhood bits have been burned away from its previous occupation possibly working in an active volcano. Napa has the Katz system for a reasonable price, generally use about 1 can a season on the hand held ones, (only driven now on sundays and in snowstorms) I had the boyz order it up but I'm wondering, I imagine the factory spot is someplace in the intake manifold for injection, is further upstream better? I'm thinking if a nice dilute mixture is enough to give a smooth start when its cold out then it'll give a slightly longer burn time. Or is this a case where the mfg knows what they're doing and just stuff her in the factory hole.
I've used a fair amount of John Deere equipment with the factory ether assist. I also own a Deere 310A backhoe with it. I've found a slight bump of the ether assist button while cranking lights it off real fast, without causing a severe over-rev at start. That's just been my personal experience though. That said, I just bump the button as quick as I can, and if it's really, really cold, I use the block heater for a couple hours and drink another cup of coffee.
The Katz system should have a diffuser on the fitting that threads into the intake. I put an automatic kit on my 1845C machines. Under a preset temperature, it fogs ether in only while cranking. Been on there for years. Works seamlessly (until the can is empty). IIRC, power to ether solenoid comes from the starter trigger and ground goes through a temperature switch threaded into the water jacket.
Is the kit from Katz one designed for your JD or is it just a generic kit for all applications. I would hope the kit is at least designed with the size of engine you are installing it on in mind. You don't want to inject the amount of go juice in to that JD that say a 16 cylinder Cat genset might need! I know some systems come with a nozzle with instructions on where to install and even the nozzles have markings on them to aim them so all the fluid doesn't get shot straight in to one intake port. ( had to edit as auto speller changed "port" to "aorta"!)
There were 2 ether (cold start aid) kits available when built. The only difference is the can style. One uses a short aerosol can, the other uses a thread on cylinder. These pics should help you to see if the nozzle is still in the intake.
U guys do know, the engines are supposed to be started @ 1/2 throttle.?? ESPECIALLY the 310..
Well, so the 644 has a magnetic latch in the injection pump, it starts at some throttle setting until its up to a specific rpm then it unlatches and drops to idle, that preset speed is well above idle but someplace near full throttle from the feel of it. Yeah, I think I have most of those parts, the can is gone, the little solenoid is near the back of the engine, all the wires are gone and the hoses were melted off. the wiring harness plug looks like its been saved by the replacement of the engine wiring harness by the previous owner. I think what I really need from katz is the can, bracket, and some sundry bits. Yes, it has a selection of nozzles, I went for the 400 inch and under nozzle, closest to the 444 I suppose.
Well, so the 644 has a magnetic latch in the injection pump, it starts at some throttle setting until its up to a specific rpm then it unlatches and drops to idle, that preset speed is well above idle but someplace near full throttle from the feel of it. I think all the 6466's start like that, seems like the rack stays close to full fuel until a certain rpm then pulls to idle. On my 790D I like to regulate the rack by pulling the shut off cable about halfway out. Not a fan of the blubbering smokey seemingly high rpm cold starts! I've used that trick on a few cold blooded engines that just sit there popping on a few but take right off when you cut the fuel back slightly.
THATS a GREAT IDEA Greg.. IF your able {room} u could take the cap OFF & spray some GOOD paint remover inside the cap to loosen the glue holding the magnets & take them out..{or a die grinder} There are 2.. so u can remove 1 & leave the other to see how THAT works.. OR just take both out & apply the throttle technic.. THOSE would be the most inexpensive options & they work.. Good luck
No, I was not aware of the 1/2 throttle starting position. Is that unique to Deere engines, engines of a certain vintage, or engines with a certain style injection pump? I'm being serious as I've been running mostly Deere equipment for years and nobody has ever shown me that. We plug in block heaters when temps are below freezing , and use a snort of ether here and there when one is being extra stubborn. What would you prescribe as the best method for cold starts, say below 32°F?
The "starting fuel" can only be achieved w/ the throttle 1/2 to full.. Full is the preferred. Just yank it back to 1/2 after it starts.. then after it smooths out, yank it back to idle. That's for all diesel engines, up to tier 4.. or electronically controlled engines. or those that have magnets.. which HOLD the control rack to full throttle.
If your block heater is working, your engine isn't at freezing, its someplace around 60 degrees or better, the 6466T deere ends up being closer to 70f plugged in, next to a building and shielded from the wind.