Hi Everyone, EX120. Have two issues with the swing motor reduction gear unit. 1. The unit is leaking gear oil through the slew ring & onto the belly almost as fast as it goes in, almost... 2. The reduction gear unit housing is cracked at the bolt support flange holes but has been stable for a long time and seems to work just fine besides the gear oil leak. I don't know if the cracked support holes are related to the leaking gear oil and was hoping to receive some constructive critique of the situation and possible repair solutions. It's a personal machine used to do some work on our lot and quite frankly running low on funds to repair these large ticket items. I've read in several posts that the leak may be a reduction gear shaft seal which some have said is a reasonably easy repair, which I'm hoping. I don't have a problem pulling the swing motor assembly to make DIY repairs. So the questions are, based on the gear shaft seal being located in the reduction gear housing; 1. Can the flange housing be welded? 2. Is the gear shaft seal replaced from the bottom of the unit or do I need to split the swing motor section from the reduction gear housing section? 3. Would anyone happen to have pictures of the bottom of the assembly or instructions on how to do the seal change? 4. Worse come to worse, can just the lower reduction gear unit be replaced somewhat low cost? Any help would be much appreciated? Many Thanks!
Structural cast, broken like that is junk. You are better off finding used and making one from 2. The pinion got loose as a result the oil leaked out. Do you have locating dowels left or are they gone? By your parts illustration, it looks like you have to press the pinion out of the bearing to access the seal and carrier.
Hi Funwithfuel, Thank you for the quick reply. So you'd say that replacing the seal and bolting the unit back down would not be a reasonable leak fix huh?... Was hoping to hear just that , oh well I don't know about the locating dowels; do they align the motor assembly when installing? I get the gist of what you're saying, "Replace broken parts with used...". I'll start looking for parts now. So, until I have the cash do the repair, is there a big problem with simply adding gear oil on the days the machine is being used? Thank you again
Had one go bad on a B E 300 once so bad the pinion gear fell out went into free swing
Last time I saw one that bad the slew bearing was shot and bucking up and down. You will at the very least need a new swing gear case. I would also be concerned about the bore in the house that the case fits into. The case is usually very tight and takes some persuading either with jacking bolts or capable crane and a lot of shaking.
I'd pump her full of grease and pour oil on top of that. That should protect your planetaries for a little while. As John C stated that lower bore might be boogered up. You might have to come up with some creative fitment solutions. Might. When you're ready we're here, ain't going anywhere. Good luck.
What I did was jack up from the bottom . If the oil comes out as fast as you put it in it will be a waste to put oil in . You could try heating grease till semi liquid and pour in or pump grease into fill and drain tube.. Fixing would be better,but you have to do what you have to do
Funwithfuel Great minds think alike
Thank you all for the quick replies, I feel a bit better with the input. @Bls repair ; 'Pinion drops -> Free Swing'... Man-O-Man OK, I understand the seriousness of that. @John C. & Funwithfuel; Didn't realize the bore was something to be concerned with, Thank you for the heads up. @funwithfuel ; Grease the reduction gear unit. Ok, I can see that being a temp solution. I've been searching for a replacement swing motor reduction gearbox and end up in China for entire unit @ $1000 bux, so there's that , heheh. EX120 Swing Gearbox Whaddya think?
LOL.....I wouldn’t trust anything from China that cheap. Get a part number for the entire unit and do a google search. There is a used one somewhere I bet.
This^^^^^^^x2
Like Vtech says... although a china one *might* last longer than yours pumped full of grease...
Get this, possibly found a swing gearbox assembly in Massachusetts for $1700 + Shipping ($150) =$1950.... it's made in China, hahah... Part number for the entire unit seems to be 9111265. If anyone has one 'laying around', just lemme know
I got one!!!! but it is still on a machine we use And I just put a new seal in the bottom of the reduction box about a year ago!!! it got too much water under it from a leaky swivel joint boot and froze which did some bad things to the seal yours looks like it had a *LOT* more water under it when it probably froze!!! either that or someone didn't assemble it correctly...
@Ronsii ; Oh man .... I read the first line and was thrilled for like a whole second! Second line, The Thrill is Gone Good one heheh
There are machines getting scrapped everyday.... you just have to find one there are a lot of these machines out there so it's not like they are a rare part. So what's the deal with the broken casing on yours??? did it come loose or was it that way when you got it? you said it's been stable for a long time... does that mean you used to tighten the bolts on it every now and then?
Had the same problem with my ex200, had grease in the swing drive when I bought it. I didn't trust that it would lubricate properly like that, and didn't want to end up eventually rebuilding it over a bad seal. Came out and apart easily. Mine only required a new seal. Bearings and planeteries are all easy to inspect once apart. Mine's been holding oil since. I bought my manuals online from tradebit, they were cheap and covered the disassembly and reassembly well, as I recall. Looks like you have a manual, can't find the re&re section? As far as the crack, looks like it ends at the hole, and is now relieved, if it hasn't cracked any further I wouldn't worry about it. Best of luck, in what you choose
@Ronsii ; Been that way since I got it and hasn't needed anything but gear oil. @200lc1 ; I'll pull the motor assembly before purchasing any new parts. Have the 'Technical, Workshop, and Parts' manuals too. Machinerytrader.com has quite a few Dismanteled & Salvage machines that should be available to pick-a-part from.
Question: Regarding the removal of the swing motor assembly, the manual says to ' Shut off engine and move the levers to releive hydraulic pressure ' before removing hydraulic lines. Is it just that simple; move the cab levers around and hydraulic pressure will release? Any Advice about the actual removal of the swing motor?
Make sure the machine is in a safe place with all the implements resting on the ground and clear of anything should they drift down if the machine is parked for a long time. Loosen the cap on the hydraulic tank so air can vent. The swing motor won't have any pressure on it but just in case leave the safety lever up, shut down the engine and then move the key to the run position, then move the control for swing back and forth. If you were removing any of the implement function hoses you would make sure the implement wouldn't move as well before you take a hose loose.
They mean that they want the machine in a neutral state. No trapped oil pressure. So, ideally you would start the machine. Firmly plant the bucket in the ground. That way you won't have an uncontrolled swing. Shut the machine off, turn the key on to run only, raise safety lever exercise all controls. This relieves both servo pressure and pressure in the implement circuits. Above all, if something feels off, stop and ask. Don't discount your own safety. Try to find out what hose connections you have and acquire the correct caps and plugs. You don't want to fix a mechanical problem only to create a hydraulic issue by not being clean. John C beat me, cuz I type so slow.
The swing motor gearbox is a pretty simple and straight forward R & R, it is a little heavy but you can lift it by hand(if you got decent muscles) ours was pulled by hand but I put it back in with a forklift just cause I had more fine control while lowering it ...I think I spent 3-4 hours on the install... but a lot of that was cleanup, i hate putting things back together without my work area being spotless!!! pretty easy to pop a new seal in the gearbox also, I think there is a thread with some pics of when I did ours on this forum somewhere...
I always mark a pinion tooth to the case and assemble it back to that mark (providing you are disassembling completely. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to stab that thing back in its hole and the bolts not lining up when the brake has it locked in position.
Yeah, what he said. That can cost hours of grief and aggravation. I'd bet a nickel, that's how the case got its first fracture
Great, thank you all! I'm quickly learning a lot and appreciate all of your knowledge especially before getting started. @John C & @funwithfuel ; Got it. Machine level, boom & bucket securely grounded & Will Not Swing once motor is removed. Vent tank, safety up, engine off, key on, actuate levers to fully ensure the machine and all functions are completely at rest before any hydraulic lines are worked on. Something feels 'off' or any questions -> stop & ask . Cap and plug lines. Work clean. @Ronsii ; Thank you for the reassurance. I looked through your profile thread list but couldn't find anything with a 'picture post' as you mentioned. But that would be really helpful if you happen to have a link. @Vetech63 & @funwithfuel ; Mark the pinion gear to the motor case to ensure re-assembly bolt alighment when swing brake is locked . Now Tha'ts Great Advice and most Certianly would have been just the type of problem I'd encounter. Many Thanks for that!! Considering what you all have said I have a plan with some questions. Plan is, over the next two weeks while continuing to study & prepare for a smooth repair: Based on cost ; Initially what the most cost effective approach seems to be is to pull the swing assy, pour in some more oil and see exactly where it's leaking from. If it's the main seal, replace it, re-install assembly and see what happens. Does this sound somewhat reasonable and if not what am I not considering besides the fact that the housing is cracked, should be replaced and is a point of weakness? If it's Not the Seal, then I'll start saving up some funds and begin to source a replacement lower gear unit. Question(s): 1. Based on the pic below, would anyone know if the seal replacment is done from the bottom of the unit or do I need to split the assembly between the Ring Gear housing (#19) and lower gear housing (#37)? 2. Can this be done without a bearing press? 3. The part is #31 (Oil Seal) or 30 (Sleeve) or both? O-wait, does the Sleeve fit into the Oil seal...?? 4. To clarify, we've used the term 'Pinion', this is another name for part #28 (Propeller shaft) correct? Thank you all again.
It appears that item 28 is pressed into item number 34. I believe I said this earlier on .You would have to disassemble the lower case from the upper case. This would allow you to gain access to the seal Carrier. I do not think that the seal is a larger diameter then your bearing so you will have to separate the 2.
I believe the pinion and shaft assembly are one piece according to this drawing on this model. What seems to be missing in the drawing is a washer and a bolt that would retain the upper bearing number 14. I'm sure funwithfuel is correct in that this box has to be taken apart from the top. I have also experienced problems pressing the pinion shaft and lower bearing out of the case because of the possibility of the case breaking. I have had to burn the bearing out on other makes of machine.
I replaced that same seal in my 120-2 about a month ago, I took each set of bolts out an was able to pull everything by hand, but you’re going to need an impact an a 30mm socket for the bottom bolts then red Loctite to put it back together.
And I think the seal in the bottom of the gearbox can be changed from the bottom.... just unbolt it's carrier and it slips past the pinion gear??? I think ... hard to remember... might have been a different machine I'll look for pics, I thought I had posted them on here but then again it could have been elsewhere and I think I've been through a couple computers since I did that one... so hard to say if/where the pics are... Oh and like NHyeti12 said I do remember an impact and some extensions to get to the main mounting bolts
It does slip over the pinion gear, no need to pull it.
Unless it's the oring#29 inside of #30 that's leaking
Hi @NHyeti12 , @Ronsii , @Tags ; That's really encouraging news. Where should I get the seal & parts? Ebay or specific dealer? Any advice there?
I got the seal from amazon it was $50, put it in the freezer a few hours before you change it an it should right into place with some encouragement. I don’t think you can change that from the bottom on theses ones plus it would be an awful mess with the 10 gallons of oil in the turntable when you pulled that cover
I got the seal for mine from Deere.... my Deere dealer doesn’t seem to care that it’s a gray market Hitachi, they just crossed the parts over from a 490E I believe.
Yep, all the ones I did were grey market local dealer didn't care they just want to sell parts
@NHyeti12 ; I was thinking about the bottom of the swing motor assembly once removed, not necessarily the underside of the turntable, I can see that being very difficult and a pain in the neck, litterally. Ok. Thanks again everyone. I should be able to get started on the repair in a couple of weeks and will keep ya'll posted. Think I'll make a vid or picture tutorial on the job. Many Thanks again to you all E
The motor/gearbox must be removed Hopefully your casing is not fractured any more then the outer ring where the bolts are.
Hi Everyone, UPDATE: I've purchased a new lower swing motor & reduction gear unit and would like to install soon. As several of you have mentioned the pinion gear -> bolt hole alignment is very important to making the install less difficult, especially with regards to the swing brake being locked. Question: with an entirely new lower gear unit, how do I ensure the pinion gear -> bolt hole alignment is correct before installation? Do I need to rotate to position the pinion gear on the new part beforehand and isn't that quite difficult to do? How do I deal with the swing brake on the old motor and should I unbolt the swing brake section while it's still in the machine and just remove & replace the lower motor / reduction section?
Yep, you answered your own question. Remove motor from gear reduction, install the reduction, then the motor. Is it already full of oil? You'll have to drain it first. Good luck and be safe. Make sure your implement is secured in the dirt to prevent any unwanted movement.
Thank you for the quick reply and I'll be sure to secure the machine. Picture posted for clarification: The new assembly I purchased is both sections #2 (swing motor) & #3 (reduction gear unit) already assembled as one piece. The only part I need to transfer from the old device is the swing brake section #1 in picture. So I'm wondering how to rotate the pinion of the new motor/gear assembly to ensure proper bolt alignment of the gear housing bolt holes. Also; does the entire swing device need to be removed or can I unbolt the top swing brake section, nudge it out of the way, remove the old swing motor & gear assembly as one piece and install the new assembly then bolt the brake section back on? E
1 is swing motor, 2&3 are reduction and pinion housing. The top is not the brake. The motor and brake are integral to the same section. If you have the bottom 2/3 you're good to go, bolt her down tight. Make sure your sealing surfaces are clean with fresh silicone. Then just swap your motor onto the new stuff. Fill with the proper oil.
Thank you again funwithfuel. Ahh, I was wondering what 'apply liquid packing material to both mounting surfaces... ' meant in the installation instructions (shown below); Silicone , got it and will do. So the question about housing bolt-hole alignment in relation to the pinion gear meshing into the slew bearing; how would I deal with misalignment as the lower section also has an oil drain line that needs to be in the correct position too (circled in the image below) Will I be able to actually turn the new lower section if it's off by a tooth? As others have warned, I'd hate to discover after the old part is out that the new gear assembly pinion and slew bearing teeth won't mesh according to the correct bolt holes in the grear housing and frame. Can you please speak to this particular concern? Also, should I replace the mounting bolts as the old ones have been tightened and retightened many times? The original bolts have both split-ring lock (practically worthless) and flat washers; should I consider using wedge locking washers like Nord-Lock instead? Thank you again, E
Hello Everyone, With regards to the install of the new reduction gear unit, I have a few more questions. Question(s): 1. I'm ordering new 10.9 (M20x250x60mm) bolts. Should they be zinc-coated or uncoated; does it matter with regard to frictional holding power? 2. The required bolt torque is 400 ft/lbs but I don't have a torque wrench to this 400 ft/lb capacity. Any advice for tightening the bolts? 3. Funwithfuel clarified that silicone is applied to each mounting surface. Is this a gasket type of silicone, like Permatex? 4. Must I disconnect all of the hydraulic lines and remove the entire swing motor assembly to rebuild the unit or can I simply unbolt the Swing Motor section while it's still in the machine, position that section out of the way, and then remove & replace the lower reduction gear section and reassemble? 5. Finally, I don't have another machine or lift to help remove the 300lb motor assembly so it'll be a 'muscle out & in' job with my sons. Any advice here? Thanks again to all who help, E
1 order the screws from your manufacturer. They may have specifications over a common hardware screw. 2 get you a cheapo torque multiplier and the right size socket. You could get , say a 4:1 which you could set up and have a 100 ft/lb input with a 400 ft/lb output. 3 Yes, RTV sealant. Best you can get, rubberized is better. 4 yes, unbolt and swing aside , if the hoses permit. 5 That is gonna be a big bucket of suck. IIRC your existing housing is broken, so no risk there. Dropping the new one in should be done smoothly. I would try to rent or borrow something to perform this task. Too many hands in a confined area trying to achieve a common goal could result in strains and sprains and may cost someone a finger or two. Please be careful in however you choose to proceed.
@funwithfuel : Thank you very much #1 & 2. Understood. #3 Would you happen to have a brand type of RTV; ie; Permatex - Black, Grey, Red, Blue....??? that you've used with success? #4 This is really good news I've heard toward this repair. #5 Will be very careful and Thank You for the reminder. E
I like this stuff https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/inte...4Ex8BucR36dKkkq9ttF4PR4asA6XlPd0aAiiPEALw_wcB Any good sealant will do, permatex ultra black is a good sealant as well. Sometimes you can find it in a cheezwiz can, which makes application a cinch
From the factory new they use a silicone sealant. I use this product for Deere/Hitachi. No time constraints with assembly as it does not set until there is a lack of air. Silicone sealants might start setting up before you get the assembly installed. The part number below is a Deere number. Loctite's number is without the "PM".
Hope I'm not to late, I've replaced a few of these seals and the design has changed over the years (common failure) you may want to put some oil in the unit and check for leaks or just go and replace the seal (something like $90 from the dealer) for cheap insurance. If you have to put it in without a lift have two strong backs lower it in with straps and one person line it up from the top keeping their fingers and hand out of the way! Good luck!
Thank you all for clarification about the sealant. I'll be sure to use one of your suggestions. As well, I'll pick up straps and eye-hooks to lift out / in the motor assembly and have another set of hands to do the alighment. E
With regards to alignment of the housing bolt holes and the frame; Will the reduction pinion gear that mates with the slew ring actually rotate a little if the reduction housing bolts are not perfectly aligned when installing? You've warned me previously about this and so I'm a bit concerned and am unsure how to solve the problem if it arises during installation I'm hoping that if the housing bolts don't align exactly that the housing itself will rotate slightly but I don't know that to be fact and during the install is Not the time to find out. Advice? Thanks you all again, E
With the motor/brake assembly off you can turn input by hand to get the pinion to drop into ring.
Perfect! Just what I needed to hear! Question regarding part #35 (Spring Washer) in the picture below: The previous owner of this machine had worked on the Swing Motor and replaced several original bolts with 'newer' ones and I believe (not 100% sure) added split-ring lock washers to all the bolts which I don't see anywhere in the manual and may be a big contributor to the existing loosening & breakage problem. There's a 'Spring Washer' listed as shown in the picture but Not a Split-Ring and research shows they're different functional design. What is on the machine now are bolts through split-ring lock washers through flat washers. Can someone please verify that the swing motor mounting bolts actually should include split-ring lock washers or just simply the bolt and spring washer as shown in the manual or Advise on best practice as to ensure bolts will not come loose? How should I lock the bolts down besides proper torque? New Belleville sping washers, lock-tite, Nord-Lock washers? What do you advise? Ordering bolts (uncoated steel 10.9 grade M20x2.50x60mm) & sealant Permatex Ultra Grey ( compatible with Titebond 1215 , apparently the recommended product.) this weekend and should be ready to do the job once I'm on school break (Mid December) or maybe just wait till Spring at this point as it's getting cold quick... Thank you all again, E
Usually those type of washers are just hard washers. Had a bolt salesman tell me that split ring washers are to be sold and never used. He put on a demonstration with some kind of special torque setup. He torqued up a bolt with a hard washer and one with a lock washer. He used the torque wrench to pull them loose and the torque was the same. Basically he showed that the lock ring did absolutely nothing to hold the bolt tight. Then he pulled out have a dozen broken lock washers that he said came out from under bolt heads. I've never used one again and thrown all the existing ones I find out in the brush. Ones on starters and alternators are usually the worst for ruining things as well.
Yes, have seen the same and agree, which is why I'm going to simply install bolts through spring or even flat washers, torque well and see what happens. Doing bucket repair today as described in another post: EX120 Torn Bucket But will keep you posted on this progress. Again, many Thanks to all of you for help & support, E
Do not use a lock washer.
Thank you mg2361, That being the case, I already have these flat washers on the bolts and will simply reuse them as their in good shape. The bolts have come loose and been re-tightened many times so replacing them seems wise. Actually, just found a bag of 8 washers for $10 on EBay based on the part number you've provided. Purchased. Thanks again, E
Would anyone have a part number for #20 in this pic? Thank you, E
I think it is 4244541.
If you are still working on this project, I found that to clean out the oil/grease/water out of the bottom, that this worked well for me. I covered the carbody with a canvas tarp, then used a portable heater and blew the hot air in. This melted the grease and ice (as it was cold outside when I did this last year). With the drain hole open, most of the goo ran out, then when I had the swing gearbox out, I used a paint scraper and pushed the rest out the drain hole. This worked really slick in my opinion. Then, I installed grease back to the swing gear via a bucket before I installed the gearbox.
Wow, this is great info Jonno and I'll be sure to do the same! My thoughts are that I may actually Wait for the spring to do the job as I've read about and have some apprehension of water entering into the swing cavity area, freezing and then both tearing the pinion seal when rotated as well as heaving the swing motor assembly, which I believe is much of the reason for the existing cracked housing and gear oil leak (previous owner). Any input to this thinking? Thank you very much! E
If I had the time, I’d just do it.
Yeah huh? I'm still waiting on parts (bolts, o-ring, and a torque tool with extensions and socket, etc.) I've just finished up classes and have some time off for the Christmas holiday so, yeah maybe just get it done and then it'll be available on those days that warm up and I can keep going on the project periodically throughout the winter. Thanks again, E
You shouldn't wait to repair that. If enough water gets in there and freezes it can bend the bottom of the cavity creating other issues, like a rotary manifold that is no longer vertical. I have seen this many times so I wouldn't take the chance. Make sure to replace the rubber boot around the rotary manifold. That could be a source for water entry.
Hi Everyone, As you've advised, I've started on the Swing Motor swap. At present, the fuel tank is drained and removed for easier access as we don't have another machine to help do the lifting so it'll be done manually. Hopefully today I'll get the old unit out, clean & degrease the area and be able to remove the remaining stud of one of the M20 swing motor bolts that broke earlier in the season. Question: Should I use loctite on the new bolts when tightening down the new motor assembly? Thank you, E
Ok, Removed the old swing motor and was also able to remove the broken stud. The bolt holes were in rough shape so I cleaned & chased them out however 1 of the mounting holes will not thread properly when starting from the top. I'm able to thread a bolt from the bottom up but from the top down it just won't start smoothly. It just so happens that this particular bolt is directly in line with the pinion channel so I'm wondering if I can simply use a longer bolt, thread from the bottom up and use a nut on the top side? Whaddy think? E
If you can thread it all the way threw from the bottom, I think you should be able to clean it up to thread from the top. Put a rag under it and maybe a small round file or light touch with a die grinder would let the bolt thread properly. Even a slightly bigger drill bit turned by hand might take off a slight burr and allow the bolt to start from the top.
I would find a tap of that size and run it through the top and the threads will work, make sure you try to start that bolt first when you're putting it together.
Hi Dave, That's exactly what we did and several times too, in fact, it threads from the bottom all the way out of the top and pretty smoothly, but still just not starting from the top properly. The top hole was no longer round but oval and even after chamfering the top to get to 'good' threads the new bolt refuses to catch properly. At this point, the only known good threads are the bottom half. Tried working it for literally hours till the thought of simply using a longer bolt from the bottom came to mind. Figured to ask about that as a possible solution. The bolt is in line with the pinion channel and I don't think the bolt head on the bottom will run into anything. Can you confirm this Dave? Thank you, E
I did actually use one of the old hardened bolts and cut flutes into it to make a 'tap' and that's how I was able to cut from the bottom up, worked very well too. Seems like a new bolt just doesn't want to go in from the top no matter what. As mentioned to Dave in the previous post, the only known good threads are at the bottom half of the hole. The first 3/4" from the top are so ragged that they're pretty much gone. So the thinking is that either I drill out the entire hole and retap with the next size or go with the nut & bolt solution which will definitely work as Thankfully this particular bolt is exactly in line with the pinion channel. Do you see a big problem with this as a solution Ronsii? Thanks again, E
When you start upsizing things you run into issues trying to keep the holes exactly on center and drilled perpendicular to the face which will lead to the same problems you are up against now unfortunately. As a first choice I would still try to locate a real tap and chase those threads out from the top.... You may have a burr or bent in hole on the swingbox... it won't take much because of the tolerances involved with that thing... so you my need to go in and file/burr it out... but first try and find a piece of hot rolled or good fitting drill bit and fit in the bore and bores next to it just as a check for size and angles.
A Heli-coil or other type of thread repair might be a good idea if only half the threads are good. I agree with trying a real tap from the top. Maybe a slight taper on the bolt would help it thread in?
Understood, we do have a local company which supplies industrial tools and will check for the M20x2.50 tap. My concern is that with the top half of the threads compromised it may be that applying 400lbs torque will strip the rest of the hole threads. Thank you for taking the time to help, E
I'll look for the correct tap. Can't seem to find the M20x2.50 Helicoil for less than $100 and wonder if they would support the 400lb torque load. Thought the 'bottom-up' bolt would take care of the cross-thread / strip issue while also able to handle the torque. Thank you for helping, E
Helicoils are generally stronger than the parent material given it's mild steel... I forget how deep the threads are in the frame... maybe 1 inch... and don't know how long a helicoil of that size is although I have stacked them before on deep 3/8th holes.... but much different use.
I haven’t worked on this particular excavator, but I’d assume if the bolt head is clear, it would be clear all the way around. Make sure you get a HD nut if you do it that way.
Thank you Ronsii, didn't know Helicoils could be stacked. E
Hi Jonno, Yeah, figured if would be clear too but wasn't 100% sure. I'll be sure to get the same 10.9 nut for the bolt if it goes that way. Thank you, E
Aren't those high shouldered bolts holding the swing box down?
Maybe the originals were but the 10.9 replacements are fully threaded. E.
Update: Purchased the M20x2.5 tap but could not get it to start from the top and it was too long to start from the bottom. Oh well. Finally, began trying every single one of the new bolts and found one that actually started from the top. Kept working it in & out and now have a bolt that I feel confident should start smoothly once the motor is in. Question: Should I use Loctite? Red or Blue? Thank you again for all of your help, E
I’d use red.
Thanks Jonno, Will do. E
Welp, the new swing motor is in. Wasn't without its challenges but relatively smooth. Dropped a hex bolt for one of the hydraulics to the top assembly and it's MIA, so not completely ready to run but close. Will let you know how it works soon. Many Thanks to everyone for all your help, E
Good to hear you're making progress and it's about ready to roll!!!
Thank you Ronsii, You've been a big help and along with others lent to the know-how & confidence in doing it myself & son (for muscle) Finished assembly yesterday and took it out for a 'spin'. Works Great! Thanks to everyone once again and hope the New Year is off to a Good Start. E
Makes sure you check it after a week or two to make sure everything is staying tight and no leaks... always a great feeling when you get something back in working condition
Yes, I was just thinking about checking after a few running hours for leaks & torque, etc... While the new lower assembly and upper assembly bolted together fine, the top was rotated slightly clockwise resulting in 2 of the hydraulic hoses being a bit tighter now. I'll keep an eye on them. Will check for motor bolts torque after putting a few hours on the machine however realized with the Loctite Red that may be difficult to do. We did the assembly with a large torque wrench so I'm hoping that the torque will still be @ 400lbs after 5-10 hours. We'll see. And Yes, it really is a good feeling and Thanks Again. E
If they're still tight should be good.
Update: Ran the machine for a couple of days and checked torque; everything is nice & tight. Thanks again to everyone, Cheers, E