I replaced main pump and pvc in my ex120-2 and everything is working except it wont swing. stalls out when you push the stick either way.
All the fuses good ? The swing brake release solenoid is powered by F9.
F9 5amp is good
this machine had a pump with a conversion kit on it and the pcm was not plugged in and actually did not work. I have been battling stalling out and overheating issues so I am trying to put it back to normal. I picked up a pump last week that was in a machine that burnt but the pump was ok. I had the pcm repaired, (burnt resistor annd diodes) from wrong fuses being used. I started up this morning and everything seems to function except it won't swing. it had no issue before this swinging,
Interesting… So the main hydraulic pump is back to pre-conversion standard. I have never installed a conversion kit so not sure what all is involved with reverse engineering on removal. I think @Jmckinstrie is working on removing a conversion kit, he may have some insight.
My Ex started swinging and that’s why we ain’t married anymore. Wait? What? What are we talking about, again?
if I am doing the flash codes correctly it shows 31, 34,36. it is like the parking brake isn't releasing
Code 31 relates to a disconnected hydraulic temperature sensor/ open wiring . Codes 34 and 36 are only pertain to a -3 model , there must be a generic EX120-2, -3 PVC installed. What I don’t understand is you mentioned without a PVC installed there was no swing issues. Normally the PVC controls the ground for the swing brake release solenoid. I can only assume the ground wiring for the swing brake release solenoid has been modified. With the swing brake release solenoid disconnected is there 24v at the solenoid connector ?
okay I have been playing with machine and find that if I move the arm in and out I can swing a few feet either way and then it is like you hit a wall, move arm in and out and a few more feet. only the arm has this effect, move anything else and it won't swing. Also if you run the arm or anything else to the end of cylinder it wants to stall the machine. Diesel Dave I took a video of the pump and conversion kit if I can figure out how to attach I will
Upload the video to utube and then post the utube link here.
Video link
Thanks for the video. Can you post a clear picture of where the (1) hose attached up on the main valve body.
View attachment IMG_2081.jpeg
Is the solenoid on the swing motor, there are no wires hooked to it
Thanks for the pic of the top of the valve bank. It looks like valve # 190 (in screenshot below) has been removed and replaced with that long adapter fitting. Remove the adapter fitting and check if items #23, 22 and 21 are still in place. .
The swing brake release solenoid is located in the solenoid valve bank. See screenshot below.
The same swing brake release solenoid valve is used on a EX120-3. The EX120-3 manual had a significantly better explanation of the swing brake release system (See screenshot below) . The swing brake release solenoid valve is normally open that explains why there was no issues with the swing with the PVC disconnected , the swing brake was permanently released with the engine running.
There is an issue with the swing pilot pressure switch or the wiring. You can prove the switches by changing around the swing and arm in pressure switches. While you’re troubleshooting might as well see what’s up with hydraulic temperature sensor/ wiring as well.
I removed the valve and this is what is there. Do i need to check voltage at solenoid still and where are these switches?
I did check the voltage at the solenoid and it does have 23.95V. I have a question on the valve I took out. is the piece 22 suppose to go thru the spring because it looks like mine sits on top of it. I do see a piece in the hole that must be screwed in, not sure if that is part 21, so when I put the spring back it goes over that piece.
The 2 pressure switches are on 2 different valves bodies . I believe you access the valve bodies by removing the storage box below the air cleaner. See (2) screenshots below for pressure switch location on the valves. .
What part are referring to as #22 ? #22 is not in the attached picture.
That was on the picture of valve you asked if those parts were still in there. Also the two valves I have under the air cleaner are attached. They look a little different than what you showed me. I also seen a plug that was not connected, or where it goes. The picture you sent is it for a EX120-2?
I do think they are the same that you sent me and it looks like my plug that is not plugged in is #7 on first picture and there is a cap on the valve where it would plug in. I truly am appreciative of your time in helping me out. Thank You
Agreed, the swing pressure switch (#7) is missing and the port in the valve has been plugged. It looks like the electrical connector portion of the switch is still plugged into the harness. Pressure switch is part #4254563 .
Thanks Dave, should I replace the valve in the main body that had the adapter on it
The original OEM valve part # 4308965 was adjustable . The “valve” you removed (I assume was part of the conversion kit) looks more like a machined slug.
I have been trying to find one but no luck, also if you know, is the spool number 22 a part of the valve body? because they said it doesn't show a part number.
Referring to screenshot below, are you sure #22 is actually missing ?? #22 screws into #21. To install the conversion kit , only valve # 190 would have been swapped out.
For the conversion kit ,valve # 190 was removed and replaced by the 2 parts shown in screenshot below.
I meant 21, it must be a part of the valve body. I found a valve on internet I don.t know if it will be worth much. I wonder if all the stuff listed in 190 is still there or probably removed.
is the spring 23 supposed to sit on 22 because mine goes all the way to bottom
Spring #23 goes all the way to the bottom of #22 .
Valve part # 4308965 subs to valve # 9208136 . Try looking for that # as well .
Okay, Diesel Dave I just received the pressure switch and I stuck it in and I am Swinging like the 50's. Still have not gotten the valve yet. think it is stuck on a boat somewhere. I am going to wait for it before I go any farther. I now notice my swing motor is leaking somewhere, i see there is an oil seal at the bottom. I never noticed this before and wondering if it has anything to do with the pressure switch being removed.
I imagine the swing pilot pressure switch was removed due to the switch leaking hydraulic oil. Where is the swing motor leaking ? Is the swing gear box dipstick showing the level overfull ?
I was checking the dip stick on swing motor and it was very low so I put in a quart and it made no difference, after 3 quarts it still was not showing on stick, the oil started running out of the main ring under the upper structure. I can not see where it is coming from but in the manual it shows a few o rings and an oil seal on the bottom of swing motor so I assume it is there. Can I unbolt the swing motor and lift it out as one piece?
Just so we are talking the same language, the swing device is made up of 2 major components the swing motor assembly and the swing reduction gear box assembly Sounds like the bottom seal of the swing reduction gear box is damaged and leaking. Find swing device re & re instructions screenshot below.
Find swing device parts breakdown screenshot below. Remove the seal retainer #15 and seal #9. Pay attention to sleeve #1 , should be smooth with no deep groove worn. If the sleeve #1 is useable I would remove the swing motor assembly , all the planetary gear sets until there was only the lower housing with bearings and pinion gear remaining . Flush the bearings with diesel fuel and with the pinion gear sitting on the floor spin the lower housing and listen for any clunking / rumbling sounds. Should spin smooth and quiet. Will give a good indication of the pinion gear bearings condition. If everything pans out, will only have to replace the seal #9 , orings # 16, 31 and 50. .
I just received the valve today and I am going to put it in, I also have the seal for the swing motor/reduction gear thing and i am pulling that today also. Will update when I finish
Is the valve new or used ? Adjustable ?
it is new but from china, and it is adjustable
i have also removed the swing motor and will start taking it apart tomorrow
I have taken the swing motor off and removed the reduction gears and the oil seal. The section with the two sets of planetary gears has some teeth issues I am attaching pic's. Can I clean everything up and use this still or does it need replaced. It is just about 3/4 of an inch of the teeth that have been broken, and about 1/3 of the teeth. The other gears look and turn great as well as the bearing. The oil seal is toast.
The picture of the component with the buggered teeth , is it item # 33 in post # 40 ?
yes
The ring gear condition is not ideal . If the rest of the gear sets look good might as well replace the ring gear. Part is # 2028037 . Lots of NOS and used out there.
Could this be the cause of the damage to the ring gear?
The gear and pin is from the upper planetary set ? If so ,there is supposed to be a needle bearing in there.
This is the larger of the two planetary gear sets, it goes in the bottom of the ring gear. The other two gears in this set have a brass bushing in them.
Definitely the missing brass bushing is the cause for the damaged ring gear.
Gear part # 9732811 . Pin part # 4244696
well I am back finally, between waiting for parts and work, not a lot of progress. So i have the swing motor unit back in and everything is working great. My problem now is everything works the way it should but don't have any power, weak. I can go forward and backward but if you try turning it wants to stall even at full power, same if you try digging. I did check the fuses and all good.
Did you check the hydraulic pressure ? The new releif valve pressure may be set too low.
EX120-2 system releif pressure spec 5000 psi .
No I have not, I will need to look up how to do that. I was checking the power to the angle sensor, and didn't see any, the plug has three wires, a green wire in the middle, a red with white stripe on the left and a white with a red stripe on the right. with the machine running I metered from the green and the red wire, nothing and from the green and the white I had 3.5 V that is all I got no matter what way I metered it. does that mean anything or what should I have
Angie sensor / harness terminal identification. . Angle sensor adjustment below. Test measurement harness #6 not necessarily required. With the angle sensor plugged into the harness , backprobe and measure the voltage between terminal 1 and terminal 2.
***Correction, With the angle sensor plugged into the wire harness , backprobe and measure the voltage between terminal # 2 and terminal # 3 * ** Apparently I was down on caffeine this morning !
Okay Dave with the machine running, no voltage between 2 & 3 and 0.6v between 1 & 2. I did not turn on the hydraulics with the control lever.
Terminal #1 is 5 volt sensor reference. Terminal #2 is angle sensor output. Terminal #3 is ground. You should read 5.0v between terminals #1 and #3 . You should read between terminals #2 and #3 approx 2.0v at min pump angle and 4.37- 4.43v at max pump angle if angle sensor is adjusted correctly.
Okay I back metered the plug with machine running and hydraulics off I do have 5.01v between 3&1 and I have 4.41v between 3&2. machine is idling.
Did you follow step #6 of the installation and adjustment procedure to put the pump at maximum angle to achieve the 4.41v you measured between terminals #2 and #3 ?
No I have not removed the sensor, I only metered the plug. You think I need to adjust the sensor. I did replace the pump and the sensor was already in it. I also would ask you if you can explain where I would test the pressure to adjust the relief valve I replaced.
I realize you didn’t remove the sensor. Step # 6 forces the pump to maximum displacement and the voltage reading taken after that step determines if the sensor needs to be adjusted. If you did not unplug the (2) solenoids on top of the pump per step #6, based on your 4.41v reading it sounds like the pump is fixed in maximum displacement. To prove it unplug the 2 solenoids on top of the pump and see if the voltage between terminals #2 and #3 changes from 4.41v.
i will try this tomorrow thank you.
Recheck for any service codes as well
See screenshot below of the hydraulic pump pressure test port location. The test port adapter is Deere/ Hitachi part # 4200465 . The test port adapter is -4 JIC male at one end and -4 BSPP male the other, a local hydraulic shop would likely have one.
Okay Dave this is what I metered. First the flash code is flashing ones every second or so just like the engine controller. The angle sensor still shows 4.42v and 5.01v. When I unplug the solenoids it stays the same. When I swapped the plugs for the solenoids I don't have the 4.42v and the hydraulics don't work.
As for the Hydraulic pressure test, I have test gauges and adapters and I think you said the pressure should be 5,000 psi, correct.
You jumped the 2 appropriate terminals at the “DrX“ connector while trying to get the flash codes ? When you swapped the pump solenoid plugs what was the angle sensor voltage at terminal # 2 to #3 ?
With any function over relief (except swing) the pressure should be 5000 psi.
Video link I just took these code readings
when I swapped the solenoid plugs I was getting like .63v. when I reversed them back I was getting 4.42v and i ccould hear the pump loading up
I read them as . Code 26 , Disconnected DP sensor and/or wire harness. Code 30, Disconnected Angle sensor and/or wire harness. Code 31, Disconnected hydraulic temperature sensor and/or wire harness. Code 34, only pertains to -3 series machine. Code 36, only pertains to -3 series machines.
Is there a good or easy way to tell if the sensors are shorted or the wires are shorted
You can backprobe the DP sensor similar to the angle sensor. 5.0v between terminals #1 and #3 0.3v - 0.55v between terminals #2 and #3. . The “T” hydraulic temperature sensor and wiring is in a vulnerable location in the bottom of the tank, make sure the sensor is actually there and is plugged in. . Regarding angle sensor code 30 , The sensor output is correct so I assume was created from disconnecting the sensor while troubleshooting.
To be clear, when checking the DP sensor output voltage, DO NOT have the engine running.
On the DP sensor, I metered 5.01v between 3&1 and 0.11v between 3&2 with just the key turned on. So you think the A sensor is ok. The DP sensor has been rewired because all the wires going to it are green and from plug to sensor they are red, black, white. can I do the relief valve with this the way it is?
The DP sensor output voltage is too low, should be 0.3v - 0.55v. On some DP sensors the voltage is adjustable others are not. Remove the DP sensor and see if there is a small allen screw in the bottom. If there is an allen screw , plug the sensor in to the harness and by turning the screw see if you can raise the voltage closer to spec.
With the pump at maximum displacement, will not be able to check the releif valve pressure accurately as the releif will be “ flooded “ with oil.
okay I do think you can adjust this one because I took it out and replaced the o-rings on it
The output voltage needs to be above 0.25v otherwise the PVC thinks the DP sensor circuit is open.
I adjusted the DP sensor to 0.48v and then ran machine, but everything seems the same. rechecked the voltage on DP sensor and it is 0.42v and I have the same flash codes
With the (2) pump solenoids connected correctly, Safe to assume the angle sensor voltage is still at 4.41v ? Check it please.
I checked the angle sensor and yes it is 4.41v, I also rechecked the DP sensor and it is reading 0.28v, I checked it before I started it and after same both times.
From your description of time lines, it seems this issue all started after replacing the system relief valve ? I will reverse my thinking , go ahead and check the hydraulic pressure. It may not be ideal with the pump at max displacement but let’s see where it’s at. Try that first. . Also in the Deere 490E tech info (same as EX120-2 and-3) it suggests that the DP adjustment can go as high as 1.0v . Split the difference and try and set it to 0.7v
Okay, I finally had some time and adjusted the DP sensor and ended up at 0.82v. I got the gauge set up on the pump and at full power I closed the bucket past the end and it showed 5-6K psi and then it would chatter pretty hard and then go to nothing, I then repeated this with the arm and boom same thing. I wanted to recheck the voltage on the angle sensor and dp sensor but it is raining to much. I did this several times and same each time
The engine didn’t stall ? Will wait for your recheck of the angle and DP sensor voltages.
The DP sensor is still at 0.85v and the angle sensor is at 4.39V with pilot handle turned on. Also the engine will stall if you don't release the stick. Both sensors still show the 5.01v signal and I didn't do anything with the solenoids, I do have two new solenoids if you think they would help.
I think the pump solenoids are working ok, when you switched the solenoid plugs the pump went to minimum displacement I think the solenoid is being powered by the PVC and holding the pump in max displacement I’m questioning the DP sensor wiring. I will look up the 2 wires at the PVC to backprobe, see if it reads 0.85v as well.
Terminal #43 is ground. Terminal #44 is DP sensor output.
I checked on the wire harness side and don't see any voltage on 43 & 44.
You backprobed with the harness plugged into the PVC ?
no I unplugged it, I thought I wanted to check the wire going to the sensor. I will check later this evening with it plugged in.
I am trying to prove the wiring using the DP sensor output voltage. See if you get the 0.85v backprobing at the DP sensor and then the same voltage when back probing down at the PVC
I tried to backprobe the plug but i can-t get the probes in so I will try again tomorrow.
See screenshot below of the DP sensor operation explanation. *With engine running and hydraulic controls in neutral ,the DP sensor output voltage should be 4.5v * Take the readings when back probing at the DP sensor and if it at all possible again while back probing at the PVC.
alright with the help of some T-PINS I have done both the DP sensor and PVC with engine running. At idle I had 2.38v at both and if I selected L, I was getting 4.91v at both
I think you have proven the “A” angle sensor, DP sensor and the related wiring are all good. Moving on , Remove the connector from the PVC and the 2 connectors at the pump displacement solenoids. Using an ohm meter ground one of the ohmmeter leads to the machine ,then check the 2 individual wires at the 2 pump solenoid connectors for a short to ground. If no shorts to ground found ,reconnect the PVC and the 2 pump solenoids. Check the resistance between the 2 terminals of the “N” speed sensor. “N“ sensor resistance spec is 570-1050 ohms. Find screenshot below of the N sensor location.
*** When checking for a short to ground at the pump solenoids connectors, only check terminal #2 . Do not check terminal # 1 ***
Just came in from checking the N sensor. Disconnected the PVC and both solenoids and metered the solenoid plugs pin#2 only and had no shorts. Connected everything back up unplugged the N sensor and ohmed 828 ohms
One more thing to check on the N sensor. Set your multimeter to AC voltage , with the engine running check the voltage at the N sensor terminals. Increase the engine speed. Does the AC voltage increase as engine speed increases ? Should be approx 2.3vac at I , 2.6vac at L , 2.8vac at E, 2.9 vac at P . Plug the N sensor back in and compare that same AC voltage reading when back probing the Engine controller (EC) terminals #4 and #11 . Screenshot of EC terminals and wire harness terminals below.
I metered the N sensor plug and had .12vac and no increase at fast speed. Plugged sensor in and back probed the EC and had same result.
Your test results indicate a bad speed sensor and or there is some crap stuck to the end of the sensor. Remove the speed sensor and see what you see. Suggest to pull a vacuum on the hydraulic tank to limit hydraulic oil loss or have a round plug handy. “N” Speed sensor is part # 4265372 . O-ring is part # 4306888 .
I took the sensor from the pump I removed and put it in, I still meter 0.012vac and when I sped up the engine I had 0.017vac. this was at the EC. I had 0.012 at the sensor but couldn't see any increase when engine sped up. I am not positive this sensor was any better than the first one, maybe I should order one.
Assuming your meter is accurate, the vac numbers are nowhere close to where they need to be. Order a new N sensor.
Dave, I received my new N sensor but I want to get clarification on metering. You want me to meter the plug on the N sensor or where it plugs in to wire harness. That is where I have been metering and then at the EC
Measure the AC voltage at the plug on the new N sensor. You are checking the AC voltage that the N sensor itself is creating when the engine is running at speeds I L E and P. Post the results. Next , plug the N sensor into the machine wiring harness. With the engine running,the EC controller plugged in ,backprobe EC controller terminals #4 and # 11 and check again the AC voltage that the N sensor is creating. Should be the same voltage as read at the N sensor itself.
New N sensor is in and ohmed at 883 ohms when idling at I it was 2.5 vac at L it is 3.3vac at E it was 3.8vac and at P it was 4.1vac. I do not get anything from pins 4 and 11 on the EC.
Any difference with the machine performance after the new N sensor installed ? You now have decent AC voltage readings at the new sensor compared to the old sensor. I was hoping to prove the wiring by back probing pins 4 and 11 at the EC, I guess the EC is not allowing that. See the screenshot below to check the EC to N sensor wiring. .
No difference in power I tried to lift front of machine with boom on the ground and it just slows engine down to where it will stall, pressure gauge is still hooked up and it gets to about the 5,000 and then it stalls out and it chatters some.
If and when you check the EC to N sensor wiring, I think we will have covered much of the electrical side of hydraulic pump control with absolutely no change to the issue of the pump remaining in max displacement. Correct me if I’m wrong, but the time line of the current hydraulic pump remaining in max displacement issue along with engine stalling all started after the new system releif valve was installed in the main control valve ?? I know I‘m grasping at straws here BUT, do you still have the original part(s) that can be reinstalled in the main control valve ? just to see if proper pump control can be achieved.
I have the plug with the pipe on it that I replaced. This was all done before I bought it. I do have the pump that I replaced. Maybe the pump I put in has the problem. The machine did have power before but it would only run 30-45 minutes before it would overheat. that is when I found it had the conversion kit on it. Then I found the PVC was not connected. I wanted to get it back to the way it is supposed to be so I started with the PVC and found the resistor and diodes burnt so I replaced that and the computer seems to work ok. I then bought the solenoids that had been removed and the pipe to the pilot pump. I was going to remove the conversion block on top of the pump but I could not find the plate to cover the hole, that is when I found the used pump and it had the plate, solenoids on it so I just replaced the whole thing. That's when I started replacing the relief valve and everything else. I wish I could talk with you so I could give you the whole story. I feel I am so close know but I am not a mechanic and most of this is way out side my wheelhouse. If you want to call me my number is 213-675-7452. I will check the wiring to the N sensor but I have to move my grandson this weekend so it will be late Sunday.
When you switched the wiring plugs on the two pump solenoids the pump went to minimum displacement and then returned to maximum displacement when the two wiring plugs were switched back so I don’t think at this point there is anything mechanically wrong with the pump. I agree you are close to pinpointing the problem. I will call you today.
@dcar , check your forum messages.
Hello Dave, so I shorted out the N sensor plug on the wire harness side and metered the #4 & #11 wires on the EC and I get 78.3 ohms. You said to check messages, I guess I don't know where to do that
It’s OK, The message was from Friday and it only had my contact info, we have talked since then.
Did you have a chance to recheck the two pump solenoids wire harnesses for a short to ground ? See procedure in screenshot below.
I have unplugged the PVC and the solenoids and metered pin #2 and grounded to body on both solenoids and have no change on meter.
With the key off but PVC plugged back in, redo the above short to ground test.
same thing with PVC plugged in.
Unplug both of the pump solenoids . With key on, check for 24 volts dc at terminal #1 on both of the machine side wire harnesses.
I did not get any voltage, I grounded to the body and pin #2 nothing
Check for 24 volts at terminal #1 on each connector.
Sorry Dave I wasn't very clear. I did check pin #1 and I was telling you I grounded the black probe to the body and then I tried it one Pin #2 which is the ground I believe. I hope that I am doing it correctly. I turned the key on Put the red probe on pin#1 and black probe on the body
You did the same test at each of the wiring harness connectors ? You did not read any voltage ?
Yes both connectors red probe on #1 and black probe to the body with the key on, no reading
Do the windshield wipers work ? If yes , as a test swap the wiper relay and the hydraulic pump control relay shown in screenshot below. Do you now have voltage at terminal #1 on the connectors ? .
There is no relay on 1 so I swapped 2 with 4 and metered the solenoids and no change. I do have a relay tester so maybe tomorrow I will test those relay's
Does the horn work after swapping the pump control relay and the horn relay ?
Find the electrical schematic screenshot below for the hydraulic pump control relay. Double check the wire colours on the relay plug at location # 2 match the wire colours yellow/green and yellow/black on the schematic.
FYI , pin # 2 at the pump solenoid wiring harness is technically a ground BUT the PVC controls it.
Morning Dave, I looked at the relay and it has a Y/B and Y/G it has a black and white and a black and white with a red dot. Solenoids have a Y/Black and a Y, the other has a Y/Black and a red/blue wire. I checked the fuses and they are all good. the horn, lights and wipers do not work, the wires are mostly broke
Remove the pump control relay. With key on , you should have 24v at terminal #1 and #3 on the wire harness relay plug.
Remove the relay and wire harness. With key on ,you should feel or hear the relay click closed. Back probe the relay harness ,should have 24v power at terminals # 3 and #5.
The hydraulic pressure sensor at the hydraulic pump is a 5 volt dc sensor. Backprobe terminals #2 and #3. See screenshot below. Check the voltage with engine running and not using any hydraulic functions.
Apologies,I gave you bad information yesterday regarding the pump solenoid wire colours. Find a screenshot below with the correct wire colours that @mg2361 had posted on another EX120-2 thread.
While we continue to try and troubleshoot the hydraulic pump control issue , you can put the hydraulic pump into “electronic bypass mode“. It basically doesn’t allow the hydraulic pump to reach maximum displacement which should allow you to dig without stalling the engine. I realize it is not ideal but it may allow you to get some work done. See screenshot below from the Deere 490E Operators manual.
is there much oil lose and do you think it is ok to run it that way
Maybe scrap that idea. I forgot that the engine was overheating with the conversion kit installed so very likely would overheat in bypass mode as well.
Suggest to back probe the DP sensor at terminals # 2 and # 3 and see what the voltage is when operating the controls. Previously , you had 4.50 volts at L engine speed with controls in neutral.
Morning Dave, I just probed the DP sensor, first with just the key on and had #1 & #3 5.01vdc and #2 & #3 was 4.41vdc then with engine idling there was no change when I raised the boom or moved the arm in and out. Again I forgot to speed the engine up.
Double check the DP voltage at terminals 2 and 3 again with key on only. Last time you manually adjusted the DP output voltage with the sensor removed you had set it to 0.85v
Morning Dave, I was checking out Chris's thread and I wonder if maybe my problems are in the wiring also. I am not sure I could do what he did with the voltage regulators but maybe it's not the sensor as much as the wires. I am at the point of trying anything even dynamite is sounding good.
Hello Dave, I put the buck converter in with the power and ground ground to the IN side and the signal wire to the OUT side and trying to adjust the voltage like Chris mentioned with the little screw on top of blue thing but the display doesn't change. I can change things with the two push buttons but not sure if it is in or out voltage. Anyway I adjusted it to 2.1 and ran machine for about half hour. It does seem better but I think I need help adjusting the voltage correctly. I did not do anything with the P sensor and can't remember what I had for voltage there.
When backprobing the P sensor with the engine running and controls in neutral the P sensor output voltage was 0.66v . I don’t remember why but we did not check the P sensor output voltage when using any hydraulic functions.
Hello Dave, I charged up the batteries and hooked up my volt meter to the P sensor and it is showing 0.66v with tractor running in L. when I lift the boom or curl the bucket it goes up to 1.23V. The buck converter is set at 5.0v IN and 2.1v out. it will stall out if I go past full curl or try to lift with the boom. I sent Chris a message on the other forum but have not heard back.