hi, my fiat allis 14c bushings are shot. just broke my first pin on the left side and had one welded back in place because no one around here can seem to find parts for this dozer - they said I would need a new full track @ $5K each side. any suggestions near jackson, ms? also, i have this odd occurance that i have to let the dozer warm up for 15 long minutes to then put it in reverse and move. forward works within seconds of turning it on. an interesting side note is that if I just crank it, and put it in reverse, it will -creep- for a few seconds then slowly stop and idle (even while engaged in reverse) and then after the temp moves up past 135 or so it will work all day fine. and one more thing: the temp gauge is reading 210 consistently after the first hour of use. i'm concerned. the only oddity is that its a home-grown muffler that has the exhaust pipe just dangling (making it very loud, for one) and you can feel the heat coming out of the muffler, into the engine compartment, instead of exiting fully through the exhaust pipe. could this be why? the radiator is blown out before use...
If you plan on keeping the 14c I would look in to converting the under carriage to Cat . I had to do this on my 16B with the bottom rollers . Replace filters & check hose fittings for suction leaks first on the transmission problem . Might be time to pull the radiator & have it cleaned & rodded out .
Does the transmission get hot as well ? Cheers, Greg
Hi I have a set of tracks 85% to 90%
Clyde, can you please send me a PM with your contact info?
Methinks they didn't try too hard. Certainly no trouble sourcing undercarriage over here and a quick google search reveals at least a couple of promising leads stateside. The FD10, 14 etc. are different animals than the Allis Chalmers tractors such as the HD16, 11 etc. which are almost impossible to find track gear for now. How did you get on with your other problems? Cheers, Greg
A year has gone by on my land clearing project..... weekends only (friday/saturday), spotty at best, and have fully cleared and restored to pasture 15 acres, and I have a 35 acre tract remaining that I have just finished pushing into windrows and now beginning to dig stumps. My workspace: -Clearcut hardwoods and mature pines (natural growth) approx 8 years ago. -Old timers say this land has always been a "bottom land" -July,August I can get into 99% of this land due to dry conditions in Mississippi My equipment: -38k lbs Fiat 14c dozer -80k lbs Koehring excavator My process is: -Run dozer through land in roughly 50-100 foot windrows. Not perfect lines, due to stumps (I lift blade and push around) and ditches -Dig stumps, pile best as can into windrows -Root rake remains of stump digging into windrows (big excavator hard to cherry pick roots) -Burn baby! Folks don't like me for a few days.. but they get over it. Mississippi has fairly relaxed burning rules. -Dig holes next to windrows, use dozer to push material in, cover, back blade -Plant winter wheat cover crop All in all, I've probably logged about 200 hours on the machines thus far, and probably have another 200 to go. This is my first land clearing project - I do computers for the real income I do have a question for those experienced: would you rather dig your bury-pit on high and dry ground, in the slough/ditch area, or does not really matter where as long as it's covered 4-6' ? I've always wondered that, and I do have one 30x30' brush pile I couldn't really make a windrow with and it's in a gentle ditch and wondering where to dig that one. cheers, tb
well it didn't give me an option to edit my last post. fiat problems: -reverse does not work for 15 minutes - once temp moves above 130, it starts working. minor inconvenience. -overheating was helped 90% by re-welding exhaust pipe -tracks will not except any grease - tried replacing zerk, tried taking entire plug out to make sure it's passing grease... mech says need to break link and replace some seals which is really expensive!! tracks are very loose and every time I try to turn, I think this is the last turn. -new root rake - what have I been missing out on!! kicking myself for getting it so late in the game on this project. koehring: -overheating is problematic. this is due to the oil cooler 1" stacked in front of radiator, not allowing access to clean radiator unless you drop 8 bolts and a 300lb oil cooler -soooo strong for pulling stumps out. 2 swipes on each side of a 36" stump and it usually pops right out -plagued by being an older machine, every other weekend a 1" hydraulic line busts and I lose 20 gal of oil and down for the weekend (shops aren't open saturday afternoon) - debating on changing out the remaining 15 hoses but it would be several thousand dollars - vrs. being able to wrap project up quicker. -some bucket zerk fittings, even after replacing, will not accept grease. for now I just have looked the other way and it's metal-on-metal action for now. suggestions?
tb, I would check trans. filter first, does trans. perform normally otherwise? If your track chains are in such a sad state, it could be that your adjusters are fully extended. Unfortunately if you want to keep equipment like this going there is no way to avoid spending money. Cheers, Greg
I have no problem spending money.. in fact money just seems to flow from my like a stuck pig trans performs good after initial warmup period, fwd, N and rev. could the filter still be the culprit?
If filter is restricted it may not be allowing enough flow until the oil has warmed up. In any case, it is quick and easy to check then you can rule it out as being the cause. It has a metal screen type element, so give it a wash and reuse.
There is also a screen/filter on the back of the torque converter housing that may be restricted. It's on the suction side of the oil flow, cleaning that may help. I think I have a decent set of used ttacks for this machine.