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Ford 4500 hydraulic and steering info needed

muthafintank · 2015-04-26 13:11

Back to working on the 69 as the weather has gotten better and its time to get it to the ranch. The hydraulics on the back hoe seem weak, cant lift 1200 lbs. The main cylinder leaks down over time with a load on it but no leaks otherwise. Where do I test and adjust pressure on the pump? I am fairly certain the pump is the one in the front running off the driveshaft correct? Also, does anyone know the oring kit part numbers to rebuild the hoe cylinders? Did all 4500 tractors come with power steering? If so, is the pump the one bolted on the left side placed low on the engine? Does it have a pressure adjustment? Thanks guys!

Replies17
  1. #1viking12015-04-26 13:25

    Actually "power-assist" steering (heard it wasn't too good from the factory). Yes, the steering pump is the gear mounted one on the left side of the engine. Not sure of the adjustment though. You might try taking the number off the hoe cylinder gland nut (best), or searching for Ford 753/755 backhoe on the Ford/New Holland site (depending on which how you have).

  2. #24500GUY2015-05-01 07:57

    I would suggest getting a copy of the Ford backhoe service manual. Worth it's weight in gold really. Any info you need about pressure checks is covered, among a great many other topics. The backhoe is equipped with relief valves that can be adjusted for proper pressure. I would check your pressures before you start tearing into those cylinders. The manual shows you how to check if fluid is getting by the seals too. This will save you much time and frustration. As to the power steering, the 4500's were supplied with power assisted steering. A rather "interesting" design to say the least. I rebuilt the one on my 4500 and it now works very well. The main thing is to take all of the slop out the steering linkage. Worn bushings / pins must all be addressed. Then the adjustment on the assist cylinder can be set correctly. This is more of a centering adjustment, so that assist is applied properly when the wheel is turned left or right. I went from needing both arms to turn the wheel with a heavy load in the bucket to steering with a couple of fingers! You do not set pump pressure. That is a fixed setting from the steering pump. If your pump pressure is low you may need to rebuild / replace pump. I replaced mine and never looked back. Good luck! - Dave

  3. #3f4500chuck2022-01-01 16:39

    not really a reply, how does the power ram come out of the cylinder or do you just replace the wiper, mine is leaking out the power cylinder

  4. #4Tinkerer2022-01-01 20:06

    Welcome to HEF, f4500Chuck ! Take look at the cylinder in the parts manual. It will show how & what it takes to reseal the cylinder. A wiper seal alone will not stop it from leaking. Look here.

  5. #5f4500chuck2022-01-01 22:34

    Thanks, I didn’t think it would, that isn’t my cylinder, I think mine is for a 4000 major, but anyway, it gives me another direction to try. Thanks for the help

  6. #6Tinkerer2022-01-02 12:11

    Different methods are used to remove the gland from a cylinder. It all depends on the mfr. and which cylinder it is. The exact model is important to find help. A serial number is a plus. If you post what you have we can help you.

  7. #7f4500chuck2022-01-02 16:10

    Thanks

  8. #8f4500chuck2022-01-02 16:13

    Thanks Serial numbers Block C5NN 6015 Steering Arm C5NN 55000 Actuator for power cylinder HB1 or I VCI 149073

  9. #9f4500chuck2022-01-02 16:14

    If in the midst of all this I forget Thanks so very much

  10. #10Tinkerer2022-01-02 17:02

    It appears that you have it figured out. Awesome ! Keep us posted on how the reseal goes.

  11. #11f4500chuck2022-01-07 12:31

    No it was Back to work on something else, the cylinder I believe should come out the end where the actuator bolts to, there is a cap in there that I am not sure comes out, I have it soaking in PB Blaster. they would not make those cylinders that had to be cut apart, resealed then welded back together would they?

  12. #12Check Break2022-01-11 02:05

    Those pictures look like a 3500/3550/4100, not a 4500. You removed the valve off the back of the cylinder. The rod comes out the front. They make an expensive seal kit for the rod. Scraper, wiper and seal. Otherwise, you're screwed if your rod and gland are bad. You'll have to cut it apart and rebuild it.

  13. #13f4500chuck2022-01-11 13:54

    Thanks for that, so I cut the tube in two, probably at the weld at the front, pull apart replace all the seals then weld it together again? Or can it be sealed from the front by pulling out the wiper and seal behind it?

  14. #14f4500chuck2022-01-11 13:56

    The rod seems to be good, it is just leaking past the wiper

  15. #15Check Break2022-01-12 02:06

    You replace the wiper and rod seal at the front. If you want to replace the rod or work on the piston, then you cut her apart. Easier to start with the rod seal and hope for the best. I cut one apart once. The guy who did the machine work was a good machinist, but ... . He told me there was nothing wrong with the internals. It leaks less now, but it's still not dry. I should have installed a wear band and maybe a new gland with redesigned seals. I hate this steering design and plan on replacing the box and steering assist with a steering motor and cylinder(s) sometime before I'm 90. I'm running out of time.

  16. #16f4500chuck2022-01-12 07:35

    Thanks so much, that’s what I needed to know Nothing I had showed that Cylinder, one day I will drill down on the numbers to find my true model

  17. #17Tinkerer2022-01-12 09:47

    From the service manual.