This thread will simplify looking for parts and measurements and other miscellaneous pictures of logging equipment that guys want or need of specific parts layouts. If you need a picture of something or what something looks like, we could post them here rather than spend an hour looking through other threads. We can try it and if it does not work out we can delete the thread.
early HD Hayes frame front suspension
more...
...and more
Still More...
And finally...
New thread,good idea
Cool pics.....first day on the job at Pacific was building rads.Just a all round fun job (har har)..I like the idea behind the thread as well..
HDX; great idea - I'm in for this thread! Great pics specially from a modellers viewpoint Maybe you will post some detail pics of your new project. She is all ready looking great!
Great idea HDX! Now to round up a few questions Ap40
Oz Nelson , Oz knows where this Pacific P-16 door is , whats the story on it HDX .
That is the right hand door off H94, Lukes P16 with the 3412 Cat Engine in her. This cab was replaced when she got her rebuild at Inland Kenworth. The cab was sent back to Franklin after the rebuild along with a lot of other parts all on pallets. Franklin ended up with a number of HDX cabs from Ron Young over at Sproat Lake Division when we were heavy into rebuilds. About that time we were just entering the recession and with the downturn in the Forest Industry things slowed down. Hayes Forest was increasing their fleet and bought some of the Hayes Cabs off M&B along with the Pacific cab that door came off. The door was removed there I ended up with most of the rest of that cab I think Would have to check But for sure that is lukes door. Would make a nice wall hanger for somebodies shop wall. H92 also had a door issue when a runaway log bumped into it at a high rate of speed. When H94 was rebuilt at Inland,everything was new right from Pacific. New fully loaded service cab, front fenders etc
HDX did that rad cap come with that fitting on it? We have one just like that on our old HD line horse and for the life of me can't remember it being there 40 years ago when I dove it hauling logs
Well...I would be more than happy to hang it on my wall if it is available..I well remember assembling those trucks and have a very good picture in my head of dropping the engine in the first one..I also well remember Cat coming in to detune them..Other than the air throttle it must work ok as she is still powered by a 3412......
075 No it was not on there originally Some of the caps were drilled and tapped so a pressure gauge could be screwed onto them. This was to check to see what the actual pressure was in the rad at operating temp. Remember the Hayes rad was rated for 7 lbs pressure and they had the pressure relief unit mounted on the back (engine side) of the top tank. You can see where it mounts on the above pics, three holes. If it got stuck it would allow the pressure to build up more that allowed and would cause the rad to start leaking at the seams. Later these became obsolete and are very hard to find so a new style was made at machine shops and used a 12 lb car rad cap. I will post some pictures of the different versions Most guys with a Hayes or two have an old brass rad cap drilled out with an eye bolt in it and they use it to lift the rad out and replace it. Must say though It is a fairly heavy duty eye bolt. My new addition has a gauge on her rad cap. On H17 I have a gauge mounted right above the Murphy Switch gauge that I look at all day long. If you zoom in on any pictures of her you can see it there
Thanks HDX pretty sure that was not on there when I drove it. Any thing that digs into your hand when you take the rad cap off you remember lol
Will try and post pictures of chain operated door regulators on here and cause's for failure.
First picture shows a Kenworth door regulator. Other four pictures are Hayes regulator with part numbers. This is a complete set and how the Hayes one would come.
This is what fails on these regulators. The original gear was made of steel but for the last twenty-five years they were replaced with a plastic gear. When there's force put on the window crank handle it will strip this plastic gear and this is what happens. You can see in the pictures what failed.
This is the window track used on all these trucks. What will happen is the felt inside the window track wears out and will come loose and gall up causing the window to bind--acts like a friction and makes it really hard to roll the window up. Another problem is the felt is completely worn out and the window will **** in the tracks. This is when extra force is used and the above pictures show what happens. I had explained awhile back about using plastic snap ties inserted in the window track when the felt is badly worn and this is how you do it. All you do is cut the head off the snap tie and insert the rest of it into the track. This will tighten the window up and stop it from rattling or binding.
These are the Hansen door regulators. One is driver's side, one is passenger side. These are their part nos. Second picture shows how to disable the locking mechanism they're manufactured with. You slide the latch to the unlock position, weld it up and grind it down flush.
This last picture shows the door regulator for a 50's to mid-60's Hayes left hand door. There was a cut out in the door panel to allow this lock mechanism to be used. The driver would slide the little lock tab to the locking position, climb out the passenger door, turn the isolation switch off and if he was so inclined would lock the passenger door with a key.
Interesting stuff...I will clean mine up tomorrow and see if they are steel gear or plastic..I really like those door handles
I cleaned up the one I have out.It has a plastic gear..
HDX,post 20,third picture. You know who will have a bird if she sees the cuffs rolled. Hahaha
If anybody is looking for new chain style window regulators try this page: http://store.stepvanparts.com/WINDOW-REGULATORS-STEPVAN.HTM - I haven't ordered from them and am not affiliated, I do know somebody else that has and they recommended the site to me. A source for the felt window channel/runs that I am again not affiliated with or haven't ordered from: http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/window-channel/?sort=featured&page=7
Someone with a lathe and a mill could fix those broken plastic sprockets...
Well as fate would have it I just happened to save a mitt full of the old ones WITH the steel gear just for that reason. when you come up next time I will show you and we can talk.
You save stuff? NO, I don't believe it! Are they on splined shafts or ? Making splines would be a problem for my pea brain but I'm sure there are ways around that if need be.
Necessity is the mother of invention
Seems to be.
RCP57 All you would need is to buy a broach and tooling to make the splines. Sorry I can't help you I don't have one of those around. A friend and I bought a 3/8" x 10' Steelweld shear today weighs around 55K pounds. May have a hyd. press bought tomorrow also I think it is a 300 ton, I know there is no broach thou so will keep an eye out for one so you can do a production run.
If its not too much trouble Jim Could you bring both those up with you this summer???
Yes that's a great idea! If you happen to find a CNC mill, waterjet, and iron worker, could you bring them to please Jim?lol You are right about the broach. Depending on the spline I'm sure one could be made to do the trick. I guess it's all about how many of these things would a guy really need as spares.lol
Not to go ..na na nana na.....but I have all that stuff at work...I haven't used the company water jet to make car/truck parts for at least 24 hours now..Tomorrow is another day tho... Any broaching we do is done using one of the presses.If we have the tooling.. I will look at the window gear this weekend and see how its indexed..
Sounds like I might better look for a trailer for my motorcycle so I can bring a bigger load. I found out that a company is going to scrap a bunch of machines, and just can't stand to see something that someone else could use get scrapped. So far they have been good to work with can only hope that we can work out a deal so all feel good about the deal.
Good Luck Jim By the way you must have carried some weight while you were up here because they decided against cutting up that excavator you were talking to them about
If needed, I can do the 3D design work for the CAM input.
I would have thought the simplest way to replace that gear would be to print one from an up rated plastic. Also you can buy blanks that have a spline already machined into them. That or my choice to cut a spline is with a slotter.
HDX, I think there are a few of us that just hate to see something that can be useful to someone else being turned into scrap. Look forward to seeing everyone and the excavator this summer.
Lazy is the father.
I have met him longcaster. Nice guy. Not motivated like us LOL