Would like to know if anyone has a diagram locating different components. I am trying to locate the stop solonoid timer and the stop solonoid relay. I am not getting but 4v to the pull wire on the fuel stop solonoid (assuming it should be 12V) and I thinking one of these components may be bad. Thanks
This what you need? Is it the issues where it dies after running for 5 seconds?
Wiring schematic
Thanks EKimble and heymccall for information. I have a no start unit. last time it actually started I noticed a harder start, but it ran fine once it did. There was some rust around edge of fuel filter so I replaced, cleaned out water seperator installed a new pusher pump and now I have fuel up to the solenoid. When I crack injectors never got any fuel. Upon inspection at fuel solenoid I get 12v at hold but pull solenoid only gets 4v. So this is where I am at
Alright, then. Remove stop solenoid (two Allen head screws and one oring). Leave wires connected. Turn ignition on. Depress solenoid stem fully. Does stem stay in? If so, have helper start machine while you observe the stem on solenoid (MACHINE WILL START if problem is electrical). There will little to zero oil loss from pump while solenoid is out. If machine starts, put finger in solenoid hole on pump and depress lever to shut it off. Did solenoid retract the stem while cranking? Red is hold wire. White is pull.
So I removed solenoid, turning key on then pushing rod in, it did not stay in. Starting, it still did not go in on its own. Machine would only crank for about 3 to 5 sec before the device in the photo started clicking. I added a pair of jump boxes and only got about 5 secs of cranking time before machine would not turn over. the device that sounds like its turning on and off. Battery in machine test good (load tests @1000 CA)
Since I have solonoid out i decided to do a continuity test, top terminal to body of unit is 16 ohms.. Bottom is almost a short to body of unit.. 1/2 an ohm. seems like lower coil is not good. Shorted to body.
That solenoid doesn't match the schematic I sent. Perhaps there is a serial number break. That other device looks like the main power relay. And, judging by the green creeping out, it may have exceeded its service life.
This is another view of fuel cut off solonoid..
The machine will not start. The machine would turn over 5 seconds at best and then I get a periodic on off noise from main relay
This is correct schematic. One above is for TL230 w/ Yanmar engine. That is main power relay that's clicking. 1711900179 @ $87 from Takeuchi, or ebay has one.
Could there be a bad battery connection causing the relay to cut out? Double check the ground battery cable where it bolts to frame. Known to have issues.
That’s a simple 2 wire shut off solenoid.. + on one side & - on the other.. U can test it w alligator clips off the battery.. If it doesn’t pull in and hold, she’s shorted out.. very common with those.. If it’s shorted, be careful if purchasing it off eBay/Amazon, There are different length plungers.. so be sure to compare..
I dunno. Schematic shows Pull and Hold circuits.
Good morning, I did get that exact one you showed me on ebay. Thanks. Unit turns over great now. Still having no start issue. Quick recap, new filter, pusher pump (aftermarket) and I am getting a fuel supply out of fitting on side of injection pump. Leaning towards injection pump, is there something else I am missing. If not, any tips for removing pump would be appreciated.
I did a floogle search for TL230 and a bunch of hits were from this forum with some good info. Use the search function to search just TL230. Good luck