Anyone ever mess with a Gearmatic winch. Its on the back of the 518 Cat skidder we bought as a back up trash compactor. We installed a a rake and trash rack for compactor duty and clearing some cut overs on the site. We also left the grapple on it also. The previous owner let the winch run down by not using it and took the short drive shaft out of it. The control master cylinder also didnt have any pressure on the handle when worked. I got some pressure on it now. I m wondering what sort of job it would be to tear down and clean the clutches up. I think the winch ould be handy in the woods and the landfill if the scraper or dozer gets hung to have a mobile winch tractor around.
Has it got the hand master cylinder? you will probly will have to the pull side cover where lines go in to get to the clutch cyl and brake bands to free them up
Yep hand masterclyinder. Ill give it a look. I never messed with one except for one a company I workd for had one on an old 175 IH and it was strung out every few days and powered in with the crawlers brakes locked. What positions does the mastercylinder handle have to be in to make it pull Hold and free wheel? Im new to skidders lol.
IT has to be in middle to hold forward postion release the brake back postion wind in if these thing set long the brake will stick to the drum
If I remember correctly, the master cylinder for the Gearmatic winch used brake fluid not hydraulic oil. The wrong oil will eat up the seals. Just make sure what it uses.
yep it does you can change it over to use hydraulic fluid
yep it does
These winches have a bad reputation. I don't think they are that bad but definatly not up to the standard of the Hyster / Lufkin stuff. The biggest issue I have seen with the gearmatic is that the pin which activates the main brake wears the ball and also the outside housing resulting in a sticking main brake. It is a simple fix to rectify this issue. You can access the brake and then the clutch via the side panel.
The worst winch ever made! I never ever saw one that worked properly. The brake continually stuck or dragging and one was unable to freewheel the drum to get the rope off! The moment there was brake fluid on the bands that was it! My oil pressure is rising just thinking about this junk used 30yrs ago! I remember a brand new Cat 518 skidder with continual trouble and the Cat fitters were out everyday, The Cat Branch Manager done the goo and asked why the hell his men were continually returning to fix this winch? They replied "if you're so blankety bleep bleep smart, you go and fix it!" He says "OK, I will!" So one Saturday morning he puts on his overalls and boots, gets one of the service trucks and of he goes to the bush with great expectations of fixing this winch once and for all. New brake bands, hydraulic fluid and cylinder kit an everything needed. It was dark when he returns home exhausted and covered in dirt and grease and says in no uncertain words "that blankety,bleep, bleep so and so winch is UNFIXABLE! Not long after this, Cat fitted their own winches on their skidders. I can remember my old boss in southern New Zealand bought three Clark skidders with the untouchable Clarke winch so as not to have anything to do with Gearmatic junk! They were fitted to Tree Farmer and Timberjack skidders as well unfortunately.
Junk the Gearmatic I agree with Pa Bear. I have yet to see a Gearmatic work well. Every owner I know has fought those things. I gave up on getting mine to work. When I needed a drag of logs winched in I used the John Deere. Those winches on the 640's are almost bullet proof. If I still had that 518 I would seriously look at replacing the Gearmatic with a John Deere 440 winch.
Its been awhile since I messed with the hand master cylinder. I think we already put a gauge on the end of the hose to make sure it holds pressure. Yes they take brake fluid.
I've used Gearmatic wenches for 30 yrs. 9, 119, and the Can-Car 20. These are all good wenches, once you learn all the little tricks to keep-em working. If there used everyday you have very little trouble with them. If they set around, there nothing but trouble, start to rust, bands stick, controller has to be bled, they turn in to a mess real quick. If controller is mounted properly, push back to winch in, center is hold, push down to release brake, stays down until its pulled up.
what is the fix for the dragging brake
Keep the bands adjusted, grind a slot in outer cover to let a leak at the nipple drain externally, use it regularly, put a canvas cover over it when not in use. A plastic tarp will hold moisture witch is no good. springs and pin wear on brake, not bad after you get used to them.
What model Gearmatic do you have? The model 19 was the one with the bad reputation. The older ones and the model 20 and newer are great winches as long as you exercise them every few months. You can get schematics and any part you need out out of Gearmatic at Broken Arrow, OK. The model 19 you had to pull out with the machine a few times every morning before you could pull it by hand. That model always pulled hard. Check the oil level in the opposite side than the clutch and brake is on. Most "ruined winches" are run dry and take the pinion out. We take the drive shafts off the winches also as they eat up about 15 HP empty and the splines in the winch driveshafts wear out from the machine articulating. But we put them on every few months and use the winch a few times. Good chance the brake and clutch need seals in the slave cylinders. Easiest way to set the clutch on a Gearmatic is to stick a half dozen hacksaw blades as shims around the clutch and adjust the clutch face against them. Gearmatic factory rep showed me that one. Get new center seals where the fluid goes in. They are always dried up when they set for two long.
Most of the time a dragging brake is a sign of a fluid leak inside the clutch/brake chamber. The center swivel for the clutch is most often the culprit leaking into the bands. it is very easy to change. Many times the clutch is dragging ever so slightly because of brake fluid on it and it is thought to be the brake. Take the band out, burn it off and reinstall setting it to the clearances above.
Lots of times the swivel gets bent when removed from the bearings to change the seals, hacksaw blade is the tool of choice till you get your eyes calibrated.:wink2 you can work the winch with the side cover off to check adjustment, just don't put a load on it, when adjusted it will snap in and out. Cut the drain in the small cover over the line at the swivel. A wet band is always wet, i try to back but no luck for me.