Hey guys, I just bought a John deere 510D backhoe for a good price, I'm going to see it and use it in a few days (will take pics also). It's in good running condition and it works, what are some of the things I should to to it right away? I am already planning on changing the oil. Should I replace the hydro fluid also? This is the second backhoe I'll have used and the first that I own, so i'm kinda new to this stuff. Any info on regular maintenance and how to do it would be great. Is there anything wrong with a backhoe that old? It looks great and from what I hear has been meticulously maintained. :notworthy Pics to come! thanks in advance, Steve Btw it's a 1970 - that's 22 years older than I am
no sense in changing new oil!....hopefully there is meter or date's wrote on the filters. And as far as the seller telling you it has been maticulously maintained....there are some people out there that will "fib" to you once in a while (not saying this guy has). And on the same note, I have never seen a machine with less than 50% bottom, a snow plow that has been used commercially, or a red corvette that was not owned by a little old lady that drove it to church every sunday lol. I would grease it, check the oil's and put it to work. Pj
How would I go about greasing it? I've never done maintenance on these tractors. Thanks!
Ummm, you get a grease gun and hook the tip on every grease fitting you can find. You then pump the grease until you see new grease come out of the joint, bearing, etc. you're trying to grease......
Now be nice Duke. Steve G is a young fellow working with his dad developing their property. We're training a new operator here. Steve G, since your not very familiar with the machine, the first thing you need to do is take your time and look the whole machine over. Take the engine cover panels off each side. Look at everything on the machine to get familiar with it's components. Crawl underneath, again studying everthing. You will find grease fittings on the driveline between torque convertor housing and transmission. Not sure about this Deere, but you may find a grease fitting at the very end of the rear axle housings on the top of the housing, maybe not. You should have fittings to grease the front axle pivot pin, and grease fittings in the steering joints and steer knucles. That's about all the grease fittings underneath. As for the loader and hoe, every pin will have a grease fitting. The front and rear bucket pivots may or may not have fittings. Everything else that pivots or moves on the loader and hoe will have a fitting. Make sure you find the ones that grease the swing cylinder pivots. There will be 2 fittings for each swing cylinder pivot as well as a fittings for the rod pivot of the cylinders.
Thanks for the info! Sorry for all the newbyness coming from me... how else do ya' learn
No problem Steve, you keep asking questions. The only dumb question would be the one you don't ask, cause your gonna walk away still dumb.
Some of the pins on my Case have two fittings. One on the inside of the loader bucket linkage and one on the outside. So look around. Some fittings can only be accessed when the boom is in a certain position. In short, Keep looking till you find em all. Then you can start learning how to scoot around with the backhoe. Kinda fun really...
The most important thing when greasing is to take time to dig out the dirt around the fittings and wipe them off with a rag before you put grease in. If any part of the machine moves it should have a fitting somewhere. If they don't take grease change out the fitting. NAPA has them in several sizes. Lift the front of the machine with the bucket and make sure you get the front axle pivot. They often have fittings in the front and rear of the pin. Change out fuel filters before winter comes. Ice will stop a diesel quick. Test your antifreeze for proper protection level. It is a lot easier to work on a clean machine so clean it down good before winter comes. Have fun!
When you have time visit the John Deere Parts catalog online. Do a Model Search for 510D. There is an unending amount of knowledge about your machine there. You can print anything in it for permanent and future reference when you are not by your computer.
Here she is!
Looks like a beast of a machine. Can't say that I've seen a front bucket quite like that one. :cool2
cool, its a big S.O.B. that's for sure even got a side dump bucket :thumbsup: Pj
It's used to dump sideways, I can pull up parallel to a dump truck and dump my load
ATQOEQUIP: they're great for backfilling trenches with rock. that will be a great sewer/septic machine Pj
CaT actually tried them on thier 983 loader's the idea was to keep the mach from making a 90* turn to get into the truck, it saved lots of time but wheel loaders where the dominant species on truck loading so it never took off the ground well Pj
Makes sense. Haven't seen one like that before. Looks like a mix of bucket and dozer blade.
Did you notice the double plating of the loader arms? Is that factory or a repair?
IDK whether it's factory or repair... I know the backhoe was known to break at a certain point and it was repaired. A solid machine I must say:notworthy It's biggest downfall is that it's a 2WD Just means I gotta' learn how to drive correctly now:Banghead
Very cool "old" machine Steve. Have fun:drinkup
Thanks! Anybody got advice about drivin' a 2wd? I guess using the left and right brake respectively would help. The thing is, our land is on an incline and it get's wet sometimes... easy to get stuck if you dunno' what your doing I've also tried stickin' the hoe way out behind me which adds weight to the back.
Brakes are for steering... My Case is so butt heavy, if it's the least bit slick, I don't even bother turning the wheel most of the time. The wheel is just a suggestion box at that point. If you get stuck, just lower the front bucket to very near the ground, spin the seat, and pull yourself out. Sometimes, you have to slow the throttle to near idle, put her in reverse and use the hoe at the same time to walk out. Sometimes you can walk out with the hoe and the front bucket at the same time. Sometimes you need to do all three, and sometimes your just stuck.
When you are loading the bucket out of a pile, keep the machine in 2nd gear and skim the outside of the pile, if you try to get into the pile too much you will just spin the tires. You will figure it out, just try not to spin the tires when loading the bucket, it's not necessary it just messes up your work area and you can do it without spinning!!!!! Good Luck, and dont be afraid to ask questions, thats what this place is all about!
I know you're a young lad and all, but remember theres a time and a place for everything!
Did I mention that I paid 7k for it? Does that sound like a good price?
That little screw cap thing with the hose going out of it has a stripped thread... it's just sitting on there now. I can pull it off with no problem and put it on again... what does it do and where would I get a part to fix it?
If she runs well and you do not have any major problems, a very good deal. Hard to find anything under 10 or 12,000 thats not beat and worn out. I bought a 1992 JD 310d 2wd with cab no ext. hoe for 13000 two years ago. I could not get along without her now. One man can get so much done in a day it is amazing. Grease and oil and filters. John deere has a place on their website that covers old machines. They will even let you down load an operators manuel for free. I think it was free, anyway good luck go slow and be careful.
Jd 510 Now there is a picture that brings back memories.:drinkupYour machine looks to be in pretty decent shape for it's age.My dad and uncles had a 510 backhoe they bought new in 1972.It was a cab machine with just a straight front bucket.I learned how to operate that backhoe,everything from water,sewer repairs and installs,house addition excavations,setting blasting mats on small rock jobs-it was well used.Would pick up and set a 5' catchbasin or a 4' manhole base with no problem. Awkward compared to today's machines,but could sure to the work.Lot's of reach with the backhoe,18' straight out if I remember correctly.Hard to see the front bucket with the cab,but the rear was ok.With only 2wd,it was heavy to get around in soft ground,and not much chance of turning either.Would either build a decent road if possible,or stick to driving straight in and out.Never liked using the brake pedals to steer as it was to hard on the differential. Dominion:canada
510 Look's like the tachometer cable housing.Maybe the JD dealer or an automotive place that repairs mechanical speedodmeters could help out. Dominion
I can't think of anything wrong with it besides the little plug that I posted a pic about and the fact that the sideways bucket tilting hydro cylinder doesn't work (no biggie for me). There's no blue smoke, it needs a new battery but jumping it ain't to bad right now, we just let it run all day. I changed the fuel filter, replaced the oil and added trans-hydro fluid to it. It used to have a cab on it, I can tell from the paint fades on the outside where the cab would have ended. I'm looking to make a roof now. Maybe weld one up or buy an old one. It look like the original paint to me. how often do you grease all of the fittings? I'm planning on doing it every 8 hours... is that good? Also, I see sticks of grease at tractor supply ranging $1.32 - $7.99 What kind should I get? Can I get el cheapo $1.32 sticks or will that destroy the machine?
Thanks
Every 8 hours is fine. I like to use a good multi purpose high pressure grease. That will not be the most expensive one on the shelf. It might say multi purpose high pressure wheel bearing grease on the tube. I like valvoline or mobile, stick with somewhat of a name brand. Also like mentioned before clean around zirts with old screw driver to remove old dry grease then wipe clean. Some more exotic greases may not be compatable with general multi purpose and may do more harm than good.
Would it be bad to grease it every 40 hours?
Grease is cheap compared to pins and bushings. Like lobo said, grease daily. You might want to find an opperators manual. It will show you grease points you might not know about. It will also give you the service intervals. Edit: You could grease a few things a little less often, like the driveline and some suspension parts. The manual will suggest how often. If your working in sand you'll want to grease the buckets more than once a day. If something starts to "squeak" you better grease it more often.
There should be a lubrication chart someplace on the machine to guide you.They are usually inside of an access door etc.Ron G
Ok, thanks!
Yes a lubrication chart is what he needs. I got mine from John Deere's website. You have to look for a section called out of production machines. It is important because some fittings get greased less often and maybe only 3 to 5 pumps. Like rear axle bearing, kind of hidden and only gets so many pumps.
Steve, you should be able to do a download and fire up your printer from this site. http://www.deere.com/en_US/cfd/construction/deere_const/noncurrent/non_current_backhoes.html